Setting front toe
- Thread starter EricH
- Start date
Black-Tooth
Tony Natoli
Lemme guess... If ya know that... then ya don't haveta...
... watch what yur doin' and just give it a twist... huh!
HAHAHA...
Well... I dunno... I always looked at my reference STRING and twisted without counting. Sorry...
... watch what yur doin' and just give it a twist... huh!
HAHAHA...
Well... I dunno... I always looked at my reference STRING and twisted without counting. Sorry...
Yep, Tony's on to me
Replaced a crapped-out steering rack and tierods this weekend...
Not my finest moment :sigh: although I got the toe-in close enough so that I can drive it to a shop that get can do it right.
I started with the '74 shop manual procedure: Measure the distance between the outside of the two front wheels at the 9:00 position, then push car forward one-half turn of the wheels, so that the same point is now at 3:00, measure distance again, and compare to an accuracy of about 1mm to set 2-4 mm of toein. I used a plumb line (mounted to a block of wood held against the wheel rim so that it would clear the bulge of the tire) to mark points on the garage floor, then used a story stick against those points to find the difference... Surprisingly accurate, in a frustrating sort of way.
But now what? I have to raise the car to get at the inner end of the tierods... and that's when it would be really nice to know going in just how many turns I need. I left the wheels on and drove the car up onto ramps to keep the front suspension loaded... Man, there's got to be an easier way... I'll go check the N54 archives.
Maybe if after I have the front end up on the ramps, I set up a reference string to mark where the wheels are, and then twist until they're moved the right amount relative to the string?
Replaced a crapped-out steering rack and tierods this weekend...
Not my finest moment :sigh: although I got the toe-in close enough so that I can drive it to a shop that get can do it right.
I started with the '74 shop manual procedure: Measure the distance between the outside of the two front wheels at the 9:00 position, then push car forward one-half turn of the wheels, so that the same point is now at 3:00, measure distance again, and compare to an accuracy of about 1mm to set 2-4 mm of toein. I used a plumb line (mounted to a block of wood held against the wheel rim so that it would clear the bulge of the tire) to mark points on the garage floor, then used a story stick against those points to find the difference... Surprisingly accurate, in a frustrating sort of way.
But now what? I have to raise the car to get at the inner end of the tierods... and that's when it would be really nice to know going in just how many turns I need. I left the wheels on and drove the car up onto ramps to keep the front suspension loaded... Man, there's got to be an easier way... I'll go check the N54 archives.
Maybe if after I have the front end up on the ramps, I set up a reference string to mark where the wheels are, and then twist until they're moved the right amount relative to the string?
What Bob says
It's worth it. The pro who has been doing this for 30 years at a shop that's been in business since 1938 spent 60 minutes on it - and it's like a whole new car - better than I could get it with unlimited time and patience.
There's not a lot that I'd hire out other than machine shop work, but alignment is now on the list (along with major bodywork).
It's worth it. The pro who has been doing this for 30 years at a shop that's been in business since 1938 spent 60 minutes on it - and it's like a whole new car - better than I could get it with unlimited time and patience.
There's not a lot that I'd hire out other than machine shop work, but alignment is now on the list (along with major bodywork).
Steve Hoelscher
True Classic
Eric,
I have been doing my own alignments for more than 20 years. I have probably done more alignments on X1/9s than anybody I have ever heard of. (I aligned my race X dozens of times over the course of a season)
The amount of change/thread on the front end depends on where in the bump steer curve you are. So it varies.
You can reach the adjusters with the car sitting on the ground. You have to lay beside the car and reach up behind the front tires and turn the adjusters. I did mine this way for years. It only takes a few tries to get it close and then lock down the jam nuts for a final verification.
I have been doing my own alignments for more than 20 years. I have probably done more alignments on X1/9s than anybody I have ever heard of. (I aligned my race X dozens of times over the course of a season)
The amount of change/thread on the front end depends on where in the bump steer curve you are. So it varies.
You can reach the adjusters with the car sitting on the ground. You have to lay beside the car and reach up behind the front tires and turn the adjusters. I did mine this way for years. It only takes a few tries to get it close and then lock down the jam nuts for a final verification.
Dave Evans
'79 1500
Steve, what method do you use?
Steve, are you using the string method for your alignment?
I understand that the rear track is wider than the front so I wonder how that may affect the results.
Also, has anyone come up with a reliable way to measure the camber accurately?
I have quickly checked mine with a framing square on a flat concrete driveway and I know that the camber on one side of my car is quite different from the other.
Thanks,
Dave Evans
Delta, BC
Steve, are you using the string method for your alignment?
I understand that the rear track is wider than the front so I wonder how that may affect the results.
Also, has anyone come up with a reliable way to measure the camber accurately?
I have quickly checked mine with a framing square on a flat concrete driveway and I know that the camber on one side of my car is quite different from the other.
Thanks,
Dave Evans
Delta, BC
Bob S
1974 X1/9 owned since '77
track compensation
I believe you have to have the string parallel to center line of car-- so for example if rear track is 10mm wider (in total) than front, the string must be 5mm further from front hub compared to distance from rear hub. That's how I see it- otherwise your string is running down side of car at an angle. Anyone disagree?
I believe you have to have the string parallel to center line of car-- so for example if rear track is 10mm wider (in total) than front, the string must be 5mm further from front hub compared to distance from rear hub. That's how I see it- otherwise your string is running down side of car at an angle. Anyone disagree?
racerx
Autoxer
camber tool
When I asked Steve.H about a camber tool he told me about this one. I bought it and it works grate.I had to drill an extra hole for the stand off peg so it would sit on the wheel just as you see it in the photo
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/category/s
for toe they also have this
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/category/s
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/category/s
this one would make string method more accuret
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/category/s
I would like to get this camber tool someday.
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/product/4506/Longacre_Caster_Camber_Gauges
or maybe this one
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/product/2098/Caster_Camber_Gauges
When I asked Steve.H about a camber tool he told me about this one. I bought it and it works grate.I had to drill an extra hole for the stand off peg so it would sit on the wheel just as you see it in the photo
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/category/s
for toe they also have this
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/category/s
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/category/s
this one would make string method more accuret
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/category/s
I would like to get this camber tool someday.
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/product/4506/Longacre_Caster_Camber_Gauges
or maybe this one
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/product/2098/Caster_Camber_Gauges
Chris Obert
autocrosser, X driver
When I asked Steve.H about a camber tool he told me about this one. I bought it and it works grate.I had to drill an extra hole for the stand off peg so it would sit on the wheel just as you see it in the photo
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/category/s
I went to their web page but could not find this tool. I sent them this picture, and they asked what the part number was. Can you provide a part number?
Steve Hoelscher
True Classic
Alignment Tools
Yep, I use the Camber Gauge in the photo. Works great if you have a level surface to put the car on.
I also use my own version of Longacre's "toe plates" for setting toe. VERY easy and very repetable.
I don't like the string method because it is very difficult to setup the strings with different track widths F/R. Then every time you make an adjustment you have to reset the strings. PITA!
I bought the camber gauge from Racer Parts Wholesale probably 15 years ago.
Yep, I use the Camber Gauge in the photo. Works great if you have a level surface to put the car on.
I also use my own version of Longacre's "toe plates" for setting toe. VERY easy and very repetable.
I don't like the string method because it is very difficult to setup the strings with different track widths F/R. Then every time you make an adjustment you have to reset the strings. PITA!
I bought the camber gauge from Racer Parts Wholesale probably 15 years ago.