fiatmonkey
Tim Hoover
1) is the brown wire mod different on the early/later model cars?
2) If so what is different (on the later model car version)?
Thanks,
Tim
2) If so what is different (on the later model car version)?
Thanks,
Tim
Brown Wire Mod clarification
- Thread starter fiatmonkey
- Start date
jvandyke
True Classic
I'm as big a noobie as they come but let me try while waiting of for a veteran. I think it's just where you connect in the fuse box that matters.
Latter style has a convient empy spade where the browns connect, just put a female on your new wire and plug it in. Earlier versions require a bit different connection method. There's pictures in one of my threads, Starting issues I think.
http://xwebforums.com/forum/index.php?threads/7664
Bob's post #11 and pic of my '81 Fuse panel in #14.
There's also a brown wire mod to the ignition switch, I'm not up on that one at all yet.
I'm going to try this soon too. I have to figure what size spade to buy and I'm a bit worried about squeezing another wire through the firewall to the battery along with the current brown, a red and a green. Pretty darn tight through there already it seems.
Latter style has a convient empy spade where the browns connect, just put a female on your new wire and plug it in. Earlier versions require a bit different connection method. There's pictures in one of my threads, Starting issues I think.
http://xwebforums.com/forum/index.php?threads/7664
Bob's post #11 and pic of my '81 Fuse panel in #14.
There's also a brown wire mod to the ignition switch, I'm not up on that one at all yet.
I'm going to try this soon too. I have to figure what size spade to buy and I'm a bit worried about squeezing another wire through the firewall to the battery along with the current brown, a red and a green. Pretty darn tight through there already it seems.
Dayton Tom
Tom Marcellino
difference...
On the later cars you have the convenience of the extra connector. On the earlier cars with the ceramic bullet shaped fuses, you do not. So on the earlier model, you follow the brown wire up inside the steering column and splice on to it.
You can find it in the posting:
http://www.network54.com/Forum/1215...+MOD+-+HEADLIGHT+RELAY+MOD...+and+a+surprize!
So J, you're done... no second wire to run.
On the later cars you have the convenience of the extra connector. On the earlier cars with the ceramic bullet shaped fuses, you do not. So on the earlier model, you follow the brown wire up inside the steering column and splice on to it.
You can find it in the posting:
http://www.network54.com/Forum/1215...+MOD+-+HEADLIGHT+RELAY+MOD...+and+a+surprize!
So J, you're done... no second wire to run.
fiatmonkey
Tim Hoover
Thanks both of you for the clarification.
jvandyke
True Classic
just checking.....
Hopefully Tim doesn't mind if I piggy back off his thread.
I have an '81, ceramic fuse style box.
I have not yet done the BWM or Headlight Relay mod but I'm gearing up for both.
I think the BWM I want (should) do is another wire from battery to this connector as pictured in another thread.
http://xwebforums.org/showpost.php?p=50508&postcount=13
I think I have different set up though, this is mine
When last I looked I did not see a free connector there though so I guess I should tie in the existing brown wire from battery that comes into this connector? Or take it to the ignition area, which also looked a bit different than others I've seen pictures of.
I will also upgrade the wire from negative battery terminal to chassis with a 4ga.
Headlight relays will be as per this method:
http://www.network54.com/Forum/12159/message/988049453/My+relay+mod,+no+cut+wires
My confusion centers around the various different wiring schemes I guess, fuse box set ups and such.
Hopefully Tim doesn't mind if I piggy back off his thread.
I have an '81, ceramic fuse style box.
I have not yet done the BWM or Headlight Relay mod but I'm gearing up for both.
I think the BWM I want (should) do is another wire from battery to this connector as pictured in another thread.
http://xwebforums.org/showpost.php?p=50508&postcount=13
I think I have different set up though, this is mine
When last I looked I did not see a free connector there though so I guess I should tie in the existing brown wire from battery that comes into this connector? Or take it to the ignition area, which also looked a bit different than others I've seen pictures of.
I will also upgrade the wire from negative battery terminal to chassis with a 4ga.
Headlight relays will be as per this method:
http://www.network54.com/Forum/12159/message/988049453/My+relay+mod,+no+cut+wires
My confusion centers around the various different wiring schemes I guess, fuse box set ups and such.
Jeff, normally you'd run a
10Ga Brown wire (an extra) from your battery to this connector, parallel with one that's already coming from the battery.
Are you sure you have all 4 posts used on this connector?
If so, parallel this with another 10Ga wire plugged into this distribution block. (don't use the same terminal as the original from the battery.)
That way, you have 2 separate sources from the battery that all come together at the post.
If you feel you'll need more power for other connections later on, consider adding another 4-point block. You can get those pretty easily...
Hope this helps...
10Ga Brown wire (an extra) from your battery to this connector, parallel with one that's already coming from the battery.
Are you sure you have all 4 posts used on this connector?
If so, parallel this with another 10Ga wire plugged into this distribution block. (don't use the same terminal as the original from the battery.)
That way, you have 2 separate sources from the battery that all come together at the post.
If you feel you'll need more power for other connections later on, consider adding another 4-point block. You can get those pretty easily...
Hope this helps...
lookforjoe
True Classic
I think because the original wiring that melts is brown casing...
I ran mine together with new wires from the (+) terminal
..this is what I removed...
I ran mine together with new wires from the (+) terminal
..this is what I removed...
Bob Brown did NOT invent it...
But don't tell my friend Tony Natoli, 'cause if he finds out, he'll change his to PINK! Ha!
But don't tell my friend Tony Natoli, 'cause if he finds out, he'll change his to PINK! Ha!
ianlawson
ian - NZ
From memory, Bob...............!!
......it was our long lost buddy Lez :worship: who came up with the mod. I think he found a Fiat "factory" service bulletin somewhere which recommended the installation of the additional brown wire to some X owners who were complaining of erratic starter motor function!!
We all now know that applies to 75% of X owners!!
Wonder where the "alien" is hiding these days??
cheers, Ian - NZ
......it was our long lost buddy Lez :worship: who came up with the mod. I think he found a Fiat "factory" service bulletin somewhere which recommended the installation of the additional brown wire to some X owners who were complaining of erratic starter motor function!!
We all now know that applies to 75% of X owners!!
Wonder where the "alien" is hiding these days??
cheers, Ian - NZ
Yes, I have a few of
Lez's diagrams on file, although I never knew where the brown wire mod really came from.
I've never seen the text behind it. (Text being anything written in a service bulletin or the likes of)
One of my confusions behind that mod was the thought that
"it didn't matter to which side of the connector the added brown wire went", when indeed it does!
Many of those connectors show to be "burnt" or discolored from intense heat generated by high
current traveling through a poor connection. Putting a brown wire feed to the wrong side
of that connection would surely not be the right thing to do, though it does help the situation somewhat.
Fixing the connection would be my first priority, then solving the cause would be my second.
This connection ends up as the highest resistance point in the harness due to the headlight and starter load(s)
Doubling up the feed line (from the battery to the fuse panel) addresses part of the problem,
removing the excessive load of the headlights addresses "most" of the rest. There is still the issue
of an inadequate ground terminal from the battery to the chassis to deal with. Also at the transmission
to chassis connection.
In my experience, addressing these points fixes most major electrical problems in an X.
I've never been a fan of cutting into the harness to solve a problem, because I believe it creates one.
Hence the difference between the "Brown Wire Mod" and the "Bob Brown Wire Mod".
This is not to discount Lez's work in any way. (I don't credit Lez with creating the BWM, only sharing it)
I've seen some truly amazing stuff coming from Lez and recognize him for his proven expertise.
Lez's diagrams on file, although I never knew where the brown wire mod really came from.
I've never seen the text behind it. (Text being anything written in a service bulletin or the likes of)
One of my confusions behind that mod was the thought that
"it didn't matter to which side of the connector the added brown wire went", when indeed it does!
Many of those connectors show to be "burnt" or discolored from intense heat generated by high
current traveling through a poor connection. Putting a brown wire feed to the wrong side
of that connection would surely not be the right thing to do, though it does help the situation somewhat.
Fixing the connection would be my first priority, then solving the cause would be my second.
This connection ends up as the highest resistance point in the harness due to the headlight and starter load(s)
Doubling up the feed line (from the battery to the fuse panel) addresses part of the problem,
removing the excessive load of the headlights addresses "most" of the rest. There is still the issue
of an inadequate ground terminal from the battery to the chassis to deal with. Also at the transmission
to chassis connection.
In my experience, addressing these points fixes most major electrical problems in an X.
I've never been a fan of cutting into the harness to solve a problem, because I believe it creates one.
Hence the difference between the "Brown Wire Mod" and the "Bob Brown Wire Mod".
This is not to discount Lez's work in any way. (I don't credit Lez with creating the BWM, only sharing it)
I've seen some truly amazing stuff coming from Lez and recognize him for his proven expertise.
Black-Tooth
Tony Natoli
No... Bob Brown INVENTED electricity...
HA!
He must've... 'cause even though I disagree with some of his theories... he seems to know more about it than anyone else on this planet!
HA!
He must've... 'cause even though I disagree with some of his theories... he seems to know more about it than anyone else on this planet!
jvandyke
True Classic
Yep, all four are spoken for. Original brown from battery (it seems) comes into one, another brown on the same side, opposite side is a brown and a pink and something else.
I ran wires but not sure where to connect so I called it quits until I think I know. I guess (but didn't check yet) that all four are tied together so the question is where is the best place to introduce the new feed, or doesn't it matter much?
I also did the 4ga on the negative battery terminal and ran a hot straight to my stereo (with on in line fuse).
PS, couldn't scrounge up the 10ga in brown, had to settle for red. So sorry.
Red is fine Jeff...
All of those brown wires tie together in that block. (It's a junction)
Put the added red wire to the 10Ga wire that routes to the ignition switch. That would be the best place.
You can remove that terminal from the block, (large paperclip) carefully wrap and solder the new red wire directly to the terminal before you plug it back in.
Be sure the solder flows well on the connector. More often than not, the connector needs to be roughed up a bit at the solder point.
Hint: I use tape to hold the wires tight together before I solder them. Then remove the tape.
Makes for a professional-looking install. You might have to flatten the insulation a bit at the end to plug it back into the junction.
Good luck with it and let us know the results.
All of those brown wires tie together in that block. (It's a junction)
Put the added red wire to the 10Ga wire that routes to the ignition switch. That would be the best place.
You can remove that terminal from the block, (large paperclip) carefully wrap and solder the new red wire directly to the terminal before you plug it back in.
Be sure the solder flows well on the connector. More often than not, the connector needs to be roughed up a bit at the solder point.
Hint: I use tape to hold the wires tight together before I solder them. Then remove the tape.
Makes for a professional-looking install. You might have to flatten the insulation a bit at the end to plug it back into the junction.
Good luck with it and let us know the results.
My question Bob B.
I did the BWM on my 81(ceramic fuses) a few years ago from the battery to the ignition switch. Also did the ground,, battery to body . It gave huge improvements. (wire at connector was bubbled and stiff for 2-3 inches.)
My question :: Should I also do it from the battery to the fuse panel connector or have I corrected it with the first BWM?? Thanks Bob
I did the BWM on my 81(ceramic fuses) a few years ago from the battery to the ignition switch. Also did the ground,, battery to body . It gave huge improvements. (wire at connector was bubbled and stiff for 2-3 inches.)
My question :: Should I also do it from the battery to the fuse panel connector or have I corrected it with the first BWM?? Thanks Bob
jvandyke
True Classic
Okay, will do. I'll check diagrams and continuity to decern which wire is heading toward the ignition switch. This is probably the next switch to burn out....
BTW on the battery side, I did three wires, 2 10Ga and one 14, the 14 runs straight to the stereo (in line fuse) one 10 is destined to connect as above (to ignition wire). The other I'm planning on using to power my headlight relays. All three are soldered together and soldered to a ring terminal. I drilled a hole in the lead connector terminal at the battery and used a large screw to screw the terminal on the connector. I also have a direct ground running right off the chassis mounting area behind the battery. All four run through a plastic wire cover loom, through a hole in the bulkhead right below the stock one. This hole was being used for wiring by some monster amp that was installed in the front trunk. I removed the amp (and found a terrible rust area behind it, the heat I guess helped that along).
BTW on the battery side, I did three wires, 2 10Ga and one 14, the 14 runs straight to the stereo (in line fuse) one 10 is destined to connect as above (to ignition wire). The other I'm planning on using to power my headlight relays. All three are soldered together and soldered to a ring terminal. I drilled a hole in the lead connector terminal at the battery and used a large screw to screw the terminal on the connector. I also have a direct ground running right off the chassis mounting area behind the battery. All four run through a plastic wire cover loom, through a hole in the bulkhead right below the stock one. This hole was being used for wiring by some monster amp that was installed in the front trunk. I removed the amp (and found a terrible rust area behind it, the heat I guess helped that along).
jvandyke
True Classic
I'd like to know exactly where on the switch you connected. A picture would be nice.:love:
Jim, you've likely corrected most of it...
But the fuse panel isn't the first place to see the extra current.
It does run directly back to the fuse box, (from the ignition switch)
but depending on which side of the connector you attached, it may
already have yet another connection in the line before it gets there. (the fuse box)
At this stage, if you run a 10 Ga wire from the battery to the fuse panel,
you probably won't see much of an improvement, but I'd do it anyway to insure
the fuse bank gets the maximum energy for distribution to the rest of the car.
I too would like to see how you made the connection at the steering column.
But the fuse panel isn't the first place to see the extra current.
It does run directly back to the fuse box, (from the ignition switch)
but depending on which side of the connector you attached, it may
already have yet another connection in the line before it gets there. (the fuse box)
At this stage, if you run a 10 Ga wire from the battery to the fuse panel,
you probably won't see much of an improvement, but I'd do it anyway to insure
the fuse bank gets the maximum energy for distribution to the rest of the car.
I too would like to see how you made the connection at the steering column.