stuck clutch pedal

jvandyke

jvandyke

True Classic
I noticed last week the clutch pedal didn't seem to want to come back up with a nice steady pressure, very subtle. I doubted myself and figured it was all in my head or foot. Checked fluids, okay. No discernable leaks.
So today, I went to leave work and clutch pedal stuck to the floor, then came back up. Stopped at gas station, same issue. So, after researching
http://xwebforums.com/forum/index.php?threads/10131/
and
http://xwebforums.com/forum/index.php?threads/2776/
I could have a failing MC or slave or both. Or just something weird with the spring. I haven't even looked yet as it's raining and I'm at work. Will go out and check fluid level again. Drive to a self car wash (to be out of the rain) and see if I can see anything amiss with the pedal/spring.
Advice welcome, as always.

It feels fine and works fine, just the last inch or so feels like the "back pressure" goes away and on release whatever force should push it back doesn't want to completely.
Hmmmm
 
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Tennis ball

Well. My brand new 1980 exhibited this problem right after I got it from the dealer. They told me there was an issue with the spring on the pedal and it was a known issue. Parts were on the way from Italy to repair all the recently sold cars, but it would be three weeks.

I cut a slit in a tennis ball and stuck the slit over the back of the pedal, then added a little duct tape to keep the ball on the back of the pedal. The pedal was a little harder to depress, but it came back up every time. Worked like a charm till the factory parts arrived and the service manager was impressed with my "fix". I let him keep it for the next customer. :)

Now... that won't fix your problem, but it may ease your pain while you search.
 
sounds like a good temp until I figure it out. Hopefully it's not the M/C, not sure I feel like tackling that yet.
 
Welp... I have NO springs...

... and my pedal return is dependent upon a good pressure plate and a good hydraulic system.

In the several cases I have experienced... what you have there is a SOFT FAILURE and a FAIR WARNING.

If you have no visible leakage at the slave... then its the master leaking by INTERNALLY, which is invisible...

Sorry for your trouble... but best to heed the warning and get after it before you haveta limp home un-romantically...
 
My toyota truck was just doing this and it was the slave.... but I knew it was the slave because I was loosing fluid...

I don't remember what the failing MC in my miata felt like... seems I just couldn't get the car into gear one morning after putting up with a soft pedal that lost pressure for a while... (it tried to warn me it was going to screw me bad in morning traffic trying to get home!)
 
If it feels normal again

more than likely it's a hydrolic problem. Like Tony said an internal leak within the master. Do yourself a favor and look at the flex hose at the slave cylinder and replace it it looks too dry, twisted (like mine was when i bought my X) or cracked. Replace both master and slave at the same time.

A good working hydrolic system acts like a spring to bring the pedal up every time.
 
Sooooo, this is coming and going. Wish I knew which part to replace. I'll monitor and assess. Tennis ball in place for now. Will rebleed. Maybe start with the slave hose and work my way up the chain from there. There is a bit of a worrisome noise too. When idling in neutral there is a "whirring" sound from the clutch, not sure I'm willing to call it a grind. Goes away when pedal is depressed. TO bearing do that?
 
Don't people rebuild these masters and slaves? Unless the bore is pitted, a couple bucks worth of seals and you're good to go, unless it's just not worth it? The dual master for my Midget was very pricey, $300 or so, I'm not complaining about $50 but still. Rebuild kits were like $13 and usually you were good to go again.
 
Decided to crack the slave bleeder and push some fluid through (lovely wife helping). One push with bleeder open and pedal is down and not coming back up unless you pull it up, pumped some fluid through, looked pretty good but there is NO pedal pressure at all, no movement of the slave push rod anymore and NO attempt at all of the pedal to come back up. So, did the freer no pressure movement (via open bleeder) finally kill the master do you think?
No leakage that I see anywhere. I'm guessing complete internal failure of the master. Make sense? It won't even push fluid through the open bleeder anymore!
 
Probably best...

I did mine shortly after I got my X. Also replaced the slave hose.

It was pretty much fine up until it did what yours is doing once or twice (if memory serves) and then it went to the floor and stayed there. The slave puked it guts out.
 
I suspect it is just the master failing, main seal totally shot I suspect. Will do exploratory surgery soon. Will tell the tale. I went with a mastery/slave set even though the slave is probably okay (based on the fact it's not leaking, that's it), didn't order a hose just because I couldn't get all three from one source and I didn't want to pay shipping from several so I'll wait on that.
I did see the nuts are on the clutch side so I guess that means fairly easy removal? I guess I'll found out soon. Know the size of the flare nut wrench I'll need off hand? 10mm?
 
Finally got old MC out. Thread here.
Looking inside old MC, bit dark, can feel ridge in bore at the pushrod end, haven't gotten inside the output end yet to check that bore. Interesting no fluid seemed to drain from the input line.
 
Somewhere on the BB there was a note that the supply hose can crimp where it comes through the trunk/wall because the old hose softens. That would explain the symptoms.
 
Let's see. Feed line to MC is blocked by something (collapse due to kink through firewall maybe). So as parts wear or a leak somewhere means the MC need fluid, it won't get it, getting air instead, symptoms begin. Makes sense. After I removed the feed line, there was virtually no juice behind it, I had drained the reservoir but the line itself should have been full. Last night I filled reservoir and only saw a trickle through the still disconnected end at the MC. I blew into it. Started to flow and I got a steady stream then. Not sure if the hose is the problem or if the 20 degree fluid just takes some time to flow through the line and fill it up. I know I should probably replace the hose although I was looking at the stuff recommended (post #14) and if anything it is more susceptible to kinks than the harder, cloth covered rubber. If it were clear you'd sure be able to tell easier though. I'll see if I can source the appropriate stuff locally and replace. Any one know the proper ID hose/tube that would work? or even a rough guess on length?
 
Done. Left hoses as is for now.
Bleed and driven. Feels good (only 1/2 mile run).
Pedal returns nicely. Clutch is 'higher" than before.
Concern about the slave rod adjustment, it's way out at the end and if I should rig up a pedal stop.
Feels good though. Won't be able to drive again for a while, blizzard on the way.
 
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