Winter project "ALU. Vick Radiator"

Yves

Yves

True Classic
There is one of my winter project "ALU. Vick Radiator"

My 86 X have the original radiator and I decide to move to Vick Radiator because a 25 years radiator probably start to be tired. I want to drive my X without thinking about heat issue.

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When I receive my the radiator the left bracket is folded!. I heat gently and with a pliers I just put back straight.
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The thermo switch is 180F .
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The bleeder screw is in the top left corner an accessible by under the car.

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I use my original hoses but I need to put two collars because the neck is smaller than the original.
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I install the two fans and wiring in parallel with the connector of my original RAD.


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The installation is straight forward no special issue just remove the old RAD and put the new one.

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For the efficient I will need to wait to spring..... presently the car is on candles.

Yves



 
Thanks for the documentation Yves.

But why in the world doesn't the bleeder sit in its original place accessible from the trunk?
Is there a technical reason for this?
That would be totally unacceptable for me.

And why are the connectors the wrong size for the stock hoses?
A mistake by the manufacturer?
 
And what are those black bottons on the front?

two fans in parallel is standard setup, isn't it?
Thanks for a great writeup and the pics.


Enjoy -
 
I believe the black squares are just the anchors for the nylon ties that pass through the rad and hold the fans on.
 
Looks nice and looks like a fun project and addition.

But I am glad you posted these, because, well, damn it!,I am disappointed. The non-stock location for the bleeder screw is a show stopper for me. I wonder why the original location would not work? It was accessible from the frunk and worked well.
 
Me too...

It's nice that someone is making a replacement, but is it better? If it's not a direct fit, why bother? I wonder if it's just an off the shelf item?

Vick's kit: $549.50 Aluminum, non-stock bleeder location, non-stock fans, non-stock hose connections, not for A/C cars.
http://www.vickauto.com/newstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5_7_54&products_id=3385

C. Obert & Co.: $600 Stock radiator, stock bleeder, stock fan mounting, stock hose connections, also for A/C cars.
http://www.fiatplus.com/complete-radiator-pr-278369.html

For the $50.50 difference I would choose the stock one C. Obert & Co. sells. In fact I did several years ago and it's been great.
 
budgetzagato said:
It's nice that someone is making a replacement, but is it better? If it's not a direct fit, why bother? I wonder if it's just an off the shelf item?

Vick's kit: $549.50 Aluminum, non-stock bleeder location, non-stock fans, non-stock hose connections, not for A/C cars.
http://www.vickauto.com/newstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5_7_54&products_id=3385

C. Obert & Co.: $600 Stock radiator, stock bleeder, stock fan mounting, stock hose connections, also for A/C cars.
http://www.fiatplus.com/complete-radiator-pr-278369.html

For the $50.50 difference I would choose the stock one C. Obert & Co. sells. In fact I did several years ago and it's been great.
Click to expand...

Even with the quirks I would go with Vicks aluminum rad over any available stock rad.

The bleeder is a simple fix. Install a hose nipple, run a hose down to the bottom of the car, plug the hose with a bolt and and secure it with a zip tie. Now you have an easy access bleeder.

The hose connectors are also not an issue, with the solution already shown.

As for the radiator fans, while it would be nice if they made them direct plug and play units before shipping them. I don't see it as a big deal to wire them up yourself, I just did this as well and had no issues. For a little effort you get much lighter and more efficient fans, win win.

Overall two very minor flaws for what looks like an otherwise great product. If I had not already done the modifications required to fit a Sirocco radiator, I would be ordering one of these up.
 
So which is better between Vick and Scirocco? What do people who swap their engines use? I imagine a 240hp K20 would need more cooling than can be gotten from a rad designed for the 75hp FIAT engine.
 
Weight less

Abec,
I share your opinion and also the weight is less.
For me all the small inconvenients are not real for me, connect wires, add a second circle clamp and when I will need bleeding is very easy by under the car... we don't bleed everydays. I think my choice is not so bad. ;-)

But I respect opinions of the X Web family.

Sometime we need a guinea pig :lol:
 
I really dont like mounting fans thru the radiator on those nylon sticks. How much more effort would it take to make it a real bolt in. no one has ever proven the stock set up isnt up to the job.
 
I always like nice shiny aluminum parts. Given the option though, i'd like a more efficient/effective water pump, especially at low speeds. My cooling challenges are always at idle in hot weather, and bringing the engine up to 1500-2000 rpm gets things back under control. The stock radiator seems to have enough capacity.
 
I understand the pump fitment clearance is critical for efficient pumping, especially at low rpm. But you probably know all that I'm sure.
 
MGandini said:
I always like nice shiny aluminum parts. Given the option though, i'd like a more efficient/effective water pump, especially at low speeds. My cooling challenges are always at idle in hot weather, and bringing the engine up to 1500-2000 rpm gets things back under control. The stock radiator seems to have enough capacity.
Click to expand...

I had similar concerns for my autocross race car.
So I dropped the stock pump & purchased an electric water pump. No matter the engine RPM, it pumps full speed. And my idle speed went up almost 500 RPM without the load. And yes, the engine does respond faster.

One reason I wanted this set up is I was experiencing heat soak issues.
Because of the way I wired it the water pump runs until the standard coolant temperature sender I mounted in the pump block off cover turns it off. I used a relay for the turbo oil pump on a Buick Grand National.
Heat soak issues are gone.

I have no idea how this set up would work on a street or track car, but I do have a couple of local clients with them on their street cars, AND the manufacturer claims their pump would work great. However they also felt I could remove my thermostat, and they are wrong on that!

Chris Obert
 
Chris Obert said:
I had similar concerns for my autocross race car.
So I dropped the stock pump & purchased an electric water pump. No matter the engine RPM, it pumps full speed. And my idle speed went up almost 500 RPM without the load. And yes, the engine does respond faster.

One reason I wanted this set up is I was experiencing heat soak issues.
Because of the way I wired it the water pump runs until the standard coolant temperature sender I mounted in the pump block off cover turns it off. I used a relay for the turbo oil pump on a Buick Grand National.
Heat soak issues are gone.

I have no idea how this set up would work on a street or track car, but I do have a couple of local clients with them on their street cars, AND the manufacturer claims their pump would work great. However they also felt I could remove my thermostat, and they are wrong on that!

Chris Obert
Click to expand...

The Subaru SVX came stock with an electric water pump. I know a lot of people who look for them in junk yards just for the water pump. It works good. I am considering this as well, should work just fine for street use.
 
budgetzagato said:
It's nice that someone is making a replacement, but is it better? If it's not a direct fit, why bother?... For the $50.50 difference I would choose the stock one C. Obert & Co. sells. In fact I did several years ago and it's been great.
Click to expand...

Yves,

Thanks for posting your picture and descriptions. Unfortunately they confirm everything I'd come to believe about the Vicks rad back when I was trying to decide between it and a paying for re-core of a stock rad. I am glad I went with the stock rad. Not having the bleeder location as stock and having the hose fittings the wrong size is unforgivable for a piece at that price. I'm also not very impressed with the mounting to the bodywork. IMO, it is NOT ready for prime time. If I'd been dealing with the issues you are illustrating, it would be back in the box for a refund.

FWIW, I also have one of Chris O.'s repro rads in my Scorpion and it cools so well I had to put in a warmer thermostat. If I had to choose again between the re-core, the Vicks alum rad, and Chris's, I go with Chris's rad for sure.

John O.
 
John,

For the truth I'm little bit disappointed for the price $$, but I keep my original RAD and probably I will sent this summer to a Rad shop for be refreshed and test and keep for spare part in case...

Return the Rad to Texas is little bit expensive from Quebec Canada.
But on a technical view the RAD is not bad and for the efficiency I will know only this summer.

In the worst case I will put back my original and I will have an aluminum Rad to sale!:hrmph:

The positive think, the X web community is now aware;)
 
Not sure what the K20 generates (sorry, but I'm not really keeping up with all the numbers on the different swaps) but you can be sure that the old adage is true - horsepower equals heat. Given the upgrades that can be made with the stock system, it still would not be a bad idea to go with greater cooling capacity when changing to a motor with more HP. Even when you think you've gone "all the way" you should still look at some of the little things that even stock X owners do to make things a bit cooler back in the engine bay. Cutting out the cross-hatch sections in the air scoops, taking out the rain tray, removing (only in you live in a DRY climate!) the rain shields under the car, etc, etc, etc. Remember that every little bit helps. In racing, they say "remove the ounces and the pounds will follow" or as pizza delivery drivers say "every penny counts!"
 
Hi Yves...Still the real test is yet to come!

Be sure to post what temperature your X runs once your back on the road compared to the stocker.

Really how many times do you have to bleed the X...not an optimal location for sure but still very doable.

Now you have 2 fans that look like they will move a ton of air and it's aluminum!

Tough crowd around here but I think you done good! And I remember someone from Texas posting their X runs substantially cooler with this Rad so hopefully the best is yet to come for you :thumbsup:
 
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