TonyK
True Classic
For those that like the challenge it is possible to repair the fuel tank sender resistor by rewinding it.
From ebay I located 30' of 38 guage Nichrome wire. Resistance is 43 ohms per foot. You need about 10 feet. $5 for 30 feet of wire.
First step with the sender removed is to pry up on the tab that keeps the sender body connected to the mounting base.
Here is what you will need to do the repair. My tired eyes need a 5X magnifier that straps to my head to see this fine detail. Jacobs on Line supplied the wire for the repair.
The sender resistor slips out of the body and you can see the broken part.
Next I needed a crimp to make the connection to the body of the resistor. OEM uses a crimp, no solder is used to make the connection. Take a crimp and open it up like this.
The eye will be cut off but the open part of the crimp is used to go around the stake on the resistor body.
Start at the wire terminal connection of the resistor body and push the new wire through the rivit then wrap several turns around the stake connector. Use the expanded crimp to hold the new wire against the wire stake, crimp to make connection. Now with the body mounted in a small vise start winding. The edges of the resistor body have notches for the wire to be wound into and prevent it from slipping down the resistor body. The wire only .038" is very strong and can be pulled to keep tension on it.
When at the end several wraps that loop under are required to terminate the nichrome wire. The body of the sender will captivate the end of the wire when inserted. Slide back into the sender body.
Do a resistance check and low fuel light check. You should have about 400 ohm reading when the tank is low and about 8 ohms when the tank
is full.
TonyK.
Grimsby Ontario Canada.
From ebay I located 30' of 38 guage Nichrome wire. Resistance is 43 ohms per foot. You need about 10 feet. $5 for 30 feet of wire.
First step with the sender removed is to pry up on the tab that keeps the sender body connected to the mounting base.
Here is what you will need to do the repair. My tired eyes need a 5X magnifier that straps to my head to see this fine detail. Jacobs on Line supplied the wire for the repair.
The sender resistor slips out of the body and you can see the broken part.
Next I needed a crimp to make the connection to the body of the resistor. OEM uses a crimp, no solder is used to make the connection. Take a crimp and open it up like this.
The eye will be cut off but the open part of the crimp is used to go around the stake on the resistor body.
Start at the wire terminal connection of the resistor body and push the new wire through the rivit then wrap several turns around the stake connector. Use the expanded crimp to hold the new wire against the wire stake, crimp to make connection. Now with the body mounted in a small vise start winding. The edges of the resistor body have notches for the wire to be wound into and prevent it from slipping down the resistor body. The wire only .038" is very strong and can be pulled to keep tension on it.
When at the end several wraps that loop under are required to terminate the nichrome wire. The body of the sender will captivate the end of the wire when inserted. Slide back into the sender body.
Do a resistance check and low fuel light check. You should have about 400 ohm reading when the tank is low and about 8 ohms when the tank
TonyK.
Grimsby Ontario Canada.
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