Pertronix Ignitor

budgetzagato

budgetzagato

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Installed this thing today. I was panicked at first thinking I was missing a part, the magnetic wheel thing. But, this one doesn't use that, so I had what I needed. I got worried after looking up videos about them on YouTube to see if there were any "gotchas" but it was fine.

My distributor is not one they make a kit for, but I convinced Csaba to send me one anyway and with some slight modifications to prevent rubbing it went together easily. I made careful mental notes on rotor and body position and put it back together just so. Started immediately and after a test drive I checked the timing, it was within 1º of where it should have been. Good enough for me.

While I was at it I relocated my coil and cleaned up some loose wiring by bundling it together and out of the way with small black zip ties. This allowed me to do more engine bay cleaning, there's a lot of grunge from when the crankcase vent went nowhere.

Runs *really* well now. Do folks keep their points/condenser handy just in case?

No pics, our camera was on a hike with the family.
 
once you go electronic.....

you never look back.
I am currently using the Crane Fireball and have had 0 issues.
Once I start putting my car back together I will be converting to the Ford EDIS system which is one step even further. Your new system will work great with the Bosch system you are building.
 
The funny thing is I think my current distributor will be changed out for something else when I go L-Jet. It's not going to fit with the intake plenum. But I want it to run as well as possible in the interim, hence the carb rebuild and the Ignitor.

My only breakdown when I had my 850 Spider was when the points got so tight they stopped working. I wish I had put one of these in that car, I might still have it, heh.
 
I use the Pertronix conversion quite often

usually on Austin Healeys and MGB's what a huge difference it makes!

The standard ignition system on these cars combined with typical rich running carburation make these cars very sluggish.

Greg, what type of car did you order the Pertronix for?
 
All you have to do is

If your distributor is in the way (as was mine) you have to convert to an exhaust cam distributor housing from a spider and go to a dizzy driven off the cam.(which you can use your existing for that) I can send you pics of mine if you like.

Warren
 
I don't suppose you took any pics of your install? I suspect I have the same distributor on my 1438 Sport Coupe and would love to understand what you did to make this work. I have also looked longingly at the kit Csaba sells. I beleive the number on my dist is S118AA (though that may be my 850 Sport Coupe).

So does this just interact with the existing cam the points would have been opened by? Does it use Hall effect or is it actually a little microswitch that is hit by the cam? I had assumed it included a collar that had to go over the cam which on my distributor means I would need to take it completely apart to put it on as the advance mechanism is above the plane of the points and directly under the rotor (both of my Sport Coupes have this type of dizzy).

Many thanks

Karl
 
more info...

I may be able to take pics later today. Our camera went on a family hike without me so I couldn't take pics during the "conversion."

My distributor is S124B, not specifically supported. You should check the Pertonix website to see if they support your specific distributor.

This is a lobe-sensing version that simply reads the passing lobes of the distributor cam, as you guessed. So pretty simple and easy install. To make it work I selected a ignitor position that was closest to perfect, this version has a choice of two spots pre-drilled on the mounting plate.

To install, you simply remove the points set and condenser, and install the ignitor in their place. Two wires connect to the coil (+) and (-), that's it.

Then I test fit a couple of times and found I had to relieve a little aluminum off of the mounting plate in the center where it's close to the distributor cam, it rubbed ever so slightly. I also drilled out one of the mounting plate holes, these two things gave just enough to make it clear the distributor cam. The mounting plate is aluminum so it's easy to fine tune. There's an air gap similar to what other electronic distributors use.

It works great this way but I have a support Q to Pertronix to see if there is a recommended air gap setting.
 
Still no pics..

I talked to Pertronix, they suggested an air gap in the .010"-.060" range. I will check mine but the tech I spoke with said as long as it was triggering I should be ok.

The kit I got from Auto-Ricambi is the MR-LS1. The application lookup on the Pertronix website at http://www.pertronix.com/support/ignitor-kit/default.aspx suggests that a MR-LS3 might be a better fit for the S-124 series distibutors, as they list the S124C. This would be the one for your S118AA as well.

Without having one to compare, I can't say. But, this works so I'm happy.
 
NP I will send them to you when I get a chance

I am tied up for the next couple of days and I am going to the Indy race this week end. I should have some pics in my other computer some where. Actually check my album over at Lancisti, there is a pic showing my set up.
 
Scorpion engines are inclined about 20 degrees. Spiders engines aren't. The oil drain ports in the cam housing are different. You need to get an exhaust cam housing from a carbed Beta.



whitespy said:
If your distributor is in the way (as was mine) you have to convert to an exhaust cam distributor housing from a spider and go to a dizzy driven off the cam.(which you can use your existing for that) I can send you pics of mine if you like.

Warren
Click to expand...
 
Thank you this is all great information as I can use this type of kit on both of my points type Fiats. I really appreciate you taking the time to go over this. Guess its time to buy more from Csaba.

Karl
 
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