Kraus bumpers

Chris Obert

autocrosser, X driver
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]One of my clients has started a production run of his version of 1974 USA, or 1300 European, style bumpers. They are very much based on the original Bertone bumper ideas, but are made using actual 1975-78 USA ladder bumpers.[/FONT]


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As you can tell by the pictures they work very well with the original Bertone concept, adding a period sharp "let's get down to business" sporting edge to the design that the production bumpers, with their big rubber blocks, don't.
The car was at the 2012 France & Italy show, did you see it there?

Of course we need to state right up front that these are decorations only & are not intended as "real" bumpers meeting any kind of law in force, nor do they add any crash resistance over running no bumpers, and they may actually do more damage than not if actually used. What ever you require as a full legal disclaimer, yep, this is it.

The bumpers are made on jigs. The fronts require one unbroken rear 1975-78 USA ladder bar (each stock bumper produces two bars), and the rear requires one unbroken front 1975-78 USA ladder bar. You must provide these, or be prepared to pay market price for the materials.
They also will require between a minimum of two, or maximum, of three of each of these additional parts:
The square mounting pads with threads 4325982 (easy to make from pads without threads 4325983 NEW http://www.fiatplus.com/bracket-for-bumper-parts-pr-297612.html or USED http://www.fiatplus.com/front-bumper-end-mount-block-pr-301099.html and a helicoil).




Bolts with tapered end 16139021 http://www.fiatplus.com/bolt-of-various-uses-pr-301097.html
and one of these rubber pads 849128 http://www.fiatplus.com/rear-sway-bar-shock-bushing-pr-276295.html




PER Bumper bar.
The car takes 4 bars, 8 to 12 mounting pads, 8 to 12 bolts, & 4 rubber pads.

The bars on this car are mounted on stock 1975-88 USA, or 1979-89 European, bumper mounting shocks. Compressed by drilling a hole in one end and draining the pressurized oil out of while making as short as possible.
Realize that this 100% removes any effect they may have originally had, and are now basically like having a solid steel mount there instead.
The ends of the bumper shocks are easily rotated 90 degrees to mount the bumper bars to.
The bumper bar ends are mounted "around the corner", straight to the body, by a bolt inserted thru a hole that you drill in the body and have a round rubber compression washer used as a bar to body spacer.

If your car does not have 1974-75 USA, or European 1300, front parking & turn signal lamp assemblies already mounted, you will either need to get yourself some, or make a simple bracket to mount 1975-88, or 1500 European, lamps.
Note that this car has fog lamps mounted on custom brackets. These are NOT part of this kit.

The actual alloy bars are provided welded, sanded, and ready for you to finish in the method of your choice for $600.00 for the set of four.
Note that this price requires that you supply the bars & mounting hardware, otherwise add market price for the materials!

Orders take approximately 3 weeks to fill.

Let me know if you are interested in a set for your car.

Chris Obert
 
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Interesting. i have a set of ladder bumpers sitting in my garage as I contemplated doing this exact thing; hacking them up into something "better". Pictures are pretty small.
 
Thanks for the picture update. Kinda what I envisioned to do with my ladders, although not sure on the rears, was thinking something even smaller and maybe not even wrapping around the corner at all. Like the fronts though.
 
I have seen these up close

and they are nicely done !

Chris, are u responsible for this conversion/idea on Richards car ? Looks great !
 
and they are nicely done !

Chris, are u responsible for this conversion/idea on Richards car ? Looks great !

It's Richard's idea. And he has gone to the expense of having the jigs made and arranging all aspects of the production.
He has asked me to be the go between because I can take credit cards and we can ship anywhere.
As for fitting his idea onto the car, that's where I came in. He told me what he wanted, and I made it happen.

I like the idea so much that I purchased his first "for sale" set. I will keep them silver and install them on a red street car I am building for eventual resale.

Chris Obert
 
Fronts look really good but something not quite right to me on the rears. Maybe its the sharp corner bend they make as they wrap around the rear fenders.

Nice work overall I would say.
 
Fronts look really good but something not quite right to me on the rears. Maybe its the sharp corner bend they make as they wrap around the rear fenders.

Nice work overall I would say.

That's what I was thinking.
Pardon my rudimentary hacking skills and I hope I'm not stepping on toes or thread hijacking (let me know if I am)
I was thinking of just blades no blocks and terminating something like this:
bumpers007mod.jpg


Although I still like nothing back there, maybe deleting the old shock holes is the way to go, (if I can't get my exhaust routed through 'em!)
 
That's what I was thinking.
Pardon my rudimentary hacking skills and I hope I'm not stepping on toes or thread hijacking (let me know if I am)
I was thinking of just blades no blocks and terminating something like this:
bumpers007mod.jpg


Although I still like nothing back there, maybe deleting the old shock holes is the way to go, (if I can't get my exhaust routed through 'em!)

I like Richard's car in closer to Bertone green, instead of VW green. Nice touch with the bumpers too. I am sure they could be easily finished that way if you like.
But you would need to weld (?) the bumper shocks to support the off balance mounting of the bar. Or secure them to the body just before the outside edge.
Chris Obert
 
Off topic alert...

What size wheels and tires is that car packing? They look massive and sticky... me likey!!!:nod:

If they don't rub... I'm in love.
 
Off topic alert...

What size wheels and tires is that car packing? They look massive and sticky... me likey!!!:nod:

If they don't rub... I'm in love.

They are just 13" wheels that Richard picked up. I'll let him chime in with the rubber it's wearing as he has a few different sets based on what he will be doing with the car.
Keep in mind it has coil overs fitted and the fenders have been reworked to fit the wheels and tires...

Chris Obert
 
Tires look like...

...Toyo 888.

Likely stiff sidewalls, likely not real good on wet,
likely not gonna last 1000's of miles.
But for those seeking more than rim protectors,
they appear to be an option for street use.
Also available in 185/60 & better yet, 225/45!
In spite of disclaimers of track only,
UTG of 100 indicates some level of streetablity.

Advan UTG is 60, and they're OE on some Lotus.
Other track tire UTGs are 40.
The NLA Yoko AVS UTG was 150.
(Yes, I know those are "somewhat" unregulated ratings)

Would love to hear Mr Kraus feedback on street driving those.
 
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tires

They are Toyo R888 - 205 rear & 185 front. No rubbing although we did round off the wheel well lip and trim away some excess metal at the base of the wheel wells. These tires are almost impossible to get. I use theme for autocross, they hold great.
Richard
 
street handling

The handle great on the streen/mountain roads. I have never pushed them in wet conditions because I do not feel they would have the same holding ability. I'm still on my first set so I can not address the wear question; besides autocrossing accelerates the wear.
Richard
 
That's what I was thinking.
Pardon my rudimentary hacking skills and I hope I'm not stepping on toes or thread hijacking (let me know if I am)
I was thinking of just blades no blocks and terminating something like this:
bumpers007mod.jpg


Although I still like nothing back there, maybe deleting the old shock holes is the way to go, (if I can't get my exhaust routed through 'em!)


I like that!
 
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