Lowering the front

mags

mags

True Classic
Hello,

I have a 87 bertone with stock springs on the front. The shocks are brand new.

I also have 15" rims all around. Front(195/45/15)-Rear(205/50/15).

I want to close the gap between the wheels and fender, also lowering the front to give the car a much nicer looking stance as right now it seems the rear sits lower.

My plan is to cut the front springs, question is how much should I cut off?

As of right now the front wheels DO rub a LITTLE at full turn.
 
I cut a full coil off

Search the forum for this topic. You'll get a few other opinions. But if you're already rubbing, you may have even more afterwards. Also you'll want to reshape the coil after cutting so you get a flatter first coil so it will seat better. I took mine to a welding shop to heat it up properly to do that.
 
Actually lowering it may help with the rubbing, depending upon where it is rubbing. If it is rubbing at the very bottom of the wheel well near full lock, then lowering the front end actually will help with the rubbing. Seems counterintuitive but it works.

Also, I have been able to heat the spring enough to reshape it with a MAPP torch, cheap and readily available from your local hardware store.
 
I found an inexpensive way to do it in 10 minutes and without disassembling anything. How that sound?
Guaranteed to work safely and for years.
-Get 2 chain link repair kits at Harbor Freight tools ($5 aprox)
-Remove the front wheels
-Hold 2 coils together using big pliers
-install the 2 halves of the chain link kit joining both coils (one on each side of the spring)
-secure both halves of the chain link with a plastic tie rap
-done:clap:

Will post pics upon request
each link is rated 500Lb
 
cozzoi said:
I found an inexpensive way to do it in 10 minutes and without disassembling anything. How that sound?
Guaranteed to work safely and for years.
-Get 2 chain link repair kits at Harbor Freight tools ($5 aprox)
-Remove the front wheels
-Hold 2 coils together using big pliers
-install the 2 halves of the chain link kit joining both coils (one on each side of the spring)
-secure both halves of the chain link with a plastic tie rap
-done:clap:

Will post pics upon request
each link is rated 500Lb
Click to expand...

Come on, really? I would like to see pictures. How long have you had this set up? Has it held up to some abuse?
 
BTW George... We useata CLAMP the springs...

on full size Cadillacs to lower them for the LA Car Shows... back in the 60's!

HA!
 
Clamping not safe...

Clamping is not safe. The clamps can move and/or fail, leading to sudden suspension movement and further damage. The clamping also creates a stress point on the spring where normally there wouldn't be one.

That said, I did this on my Scirocco to see if I liked the look. Then I got proper lowered springs. I wouldn't do that today.
 
I'm not sure why you want to avoid...

cutting your springs... Clamping by any means is sort of a non-committal band-aid.

Of all else that was recommended here... especially NOT to use clamps... George's use of a chain link appears to be the safest.

But it hasta rattle a bit if the spring is compressed beyond what's holding the link. Its all kinda interesting but I think George musta been drinking one of Busman's Brazilian Cocktails when he came up with the idea.

I think your best bet is to replace the springs with performance ones or cut one coil off the originals, heat and bend them to fit the perch properly, and lastly modify the strut rod so they work as they should. This should lower the car about 2 inches.

Spring compressors can be had for 7 - 12 bucks at Harbor Freight and are great for this car... Except for a 12 x 1.25 die (Pep Boys for about 5 bucks), nothing else needs to purchased as most have a propane torch, grinder and hacksaw to do the rest.

Good luck with your choices...

OH... BTW... many have stated the performance springs they purchased actually RAISED their cars a bit and needed to be cut down anyway. Lastly, our 5X SCCA Autocross champ used stiffer REAR springs off a donor X1/9, cut them down... and used them up front!
 
Try Autozone for "renting" spring compressors

It was super inexpensive - can't recall what I paid but it was darn near free to rent them for a couple of days.
 
Black-Tooth said:
cutting your springs... Clamping by any means is sort of a non-committal band-aid.

Of all else that was recommended here... especially NOT to use clamps... George's use of a chain link appears to be the safest.

But it hasta rattle a bit if the spring is compressed beyond what's holding the link. Its all kinda interesting but I think George musta been drinking one of Busman's Brazilian Cocktails when he came up with the idea.

I think your best bet is to replace the springs with performance ones or cut one coil off the originals, heat and bend them to fit the perch properly, and lastly modify the strut rod so they work as they should. This should lower the car about 2 inches.

Spring compressors can be had for 7 - 12 bucks at Harbor Freight and are great for this car... Except for a 12 x 1.25 die (Pep Boys for about 5 bucks), nothing else needs to purchased as most have a propane torch, grinder and hacksaw to do the rest.

Good luck with your choices...

OH... BTW... many have stated the performance springs they purchased actually RAISED their cars a bit and needed to be cut down anyway. Lastly, our 5X SCCA Autocross champ used stiffer REAR springs off a donor X1/9, cut them down... and used them up front!
Click to expand...

So is that the agreed amound to cut? Cut one coil off the spring?
Now if I can get my hads on a set of rear springs should I cut and install those for the front to gain better performance?
 
Mags... I can't tell the year of your car...

Some pre '79s had some larger springs and I've been TOLD that they had to cut the spring down more.

If it is a '79 or later, I humbly suggest you only cut ONE coil as the cut end's orientation will match that of the stocker. It will then fit BETTER in its lower socket. Cutting one coil will lower the car approximately 1 inch and remove one of the "softer coils" in the spring. Ride will be much firmer and if you were to ignore the orientation and cut just ONE QUARTER of the next coil... it will lower the car another inch. I would imagine cutting two FULL coils would render the spring useless.

Follow the instructions I posted about heating the opposite end of the coil's end with just a Propane torch and bending and aligning the bottom coil's end to better fit the socket with some grinding as well. Use the stock coil end as a guide.

Sounds difficult but ain't... and then modify the strut shaft with a bench grinder (or lathe if you have one) and tap the threads down the shaft another 3/4 inch or so. Then cut off the excess.

When done it will appear professional and lower the front end about 2 inches at the bumper overall. Most have told me they love the mod and its basically FREE. Now is a good time to replace the struts and install some Plaia Pivots as well.

Just do the fronts first... and then you can mess with the rear as well... but a two inch drop in the front makes the car about level... and transfers more static weight to the front making braking and cornering much better, especially if 185/60x13s or better are installed. If you do the same mod in the rear, it will give it a nose up attitude again... which is GOOD if you have 103hp to the wheels and autocross. For the street, I would not lower the rear.

As for messing with the larger rear springs and cutting them to fit up front... (I have not done this mod but...) I can assume with the springs being longer in the first place, it will be necessary to cut BOTH ends which leaves you with just the STRONG section of coils and a VERY STIFF ride. Has proven itself a GREAT mod for autocross... Probably unbearable for the street.

That's it for now... HTH...
 
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