clutch pedal feel modify? spring delete?

jvandyke

jvandyke

True Classic
Okay, I know I have enough to tinker with but I don't like the feel of my clutch pedal, I think it's that spring I don't like, It pulls the pedal "over center" and helps "pull it down" and when I go to release it I have to be ready to compensate when the spring goes back "over center" and now tries to push the pedal back up, is that making sense? I want to delete the silly thing and I know it has been done but not too much on it. Soliciting advice. I'm fighting the spring and can't get a good feel for the clutch. It has always been this way and it bugs me. Anyone else?
 
Not following you Jeff.
Is the "non-linear" force of the pedal return mechanism bothering you?
I've spent more time under my X than I have driving it, but the clutch pedal feel has not been an issue for me. Feels ok...

jvandyke said:
Okay, I know I have enough to tinker with but I don't like the feel of my clutch pedal, I think it's that spring I don't like, It pulls the pedal "over center" and helps "pull it down" and when I go to release it I have to be ready to compensate when the spring goes back "over center" and now tries to push the pedal back up, is that making sense? I want to delete the silly thing and I know it has been done but not too much on it. Soliciting advice. I'm fighting the spring and can't get a good feel for the clutch. It has always been this way and it bugs me. Anyone else?
Click to expand...
 
yep, "non linear" sums it up, it's great between gears, just starting off from a stop is a bit tricky trying to counter balance the spring, no big deal.
 
Hmmmm!

I have NO springs on the clutch pedal arm OR the slave cylinder... and never had for YEARS. I just added a generic spring to keep the T/O bearing against the clutch arm so it didn't get too close to the pressure plate springs and spin. But this was for just this cause, nothing else.

My clutch has always had a "linear" feel to it, even when the master or slave gave out! HA!

I suspect possibly your adjustment is outta whack... I mean especially if you have TOO MUCH throw... and you are over-stressing the pressure plate "spring". Have someone depress the clutch for you from top to the floor and observe if you have about 1 1/4 inch of throw with regard to the clutch arm.

Also ASK the helper where his/her foot is with regard to the floor when you see the clutch arm move 1 1/4 inch. Let us know what you find... If he is only halfway done then I suspect you would need to adjust the clutch arm rod back so that the pressure plate is fully depressed when the pedal is an inch off the floor and not 3 inches off the floor.

Just a thought...
 
Black-Tooth said:
I have NO springs on the clutch pedal arm OR the slave cylinder... and never had for YEARS. I just added a generic spring to keep the T/O bearing against the clutch arm so it didn't get too close to the pressure plate springs and spin. But this was for just this cause, nothing else.

My clutch has always had a "linear" feel to it, even when the master or slave gave out! HA!

I suspect possibly your adjustment is outta whack... I mean especially if you have TOO MUCH throw... and you are over-stressing the pressure plate "spring". Have someone depress the clutch for you from top to the floor and observe if you have about 1 1/4 inch of throw with regard to the clutch arm.

Also ASK the helper where his/her foot is with regard to the floor when you see the clutch arm move 1 1/4 inch. Let us know what you find... If he is only halfway done then I suspect you would need to adjust the clutch arm rod back so that the pressure plate is fully depressed when the pedal is an inch off the floor and not 3 inches off the floor.

Just a thought...
Click to expand...

Tony,
1 1/4 inch it is the the slave cylinder or the arm move ?

My slave cylinder move about 7/8 inches
 
Mine used to do that

I understand what you mean by overcenter -that's how it's set up. Mine used to actually get stuck down on the floor -but only if I had the engine wound up when I pushed the clutch.

There is supposed to be a black plastic cylindrical stop on the floor ("firewall"?) that the clutch pedal arm should hit when you step on the clutch. It keeps the pedal from overtraveling to the point where the spring begins holding the pedal down.

If that's not there; that might be your problem.
 
clutch pedal stop, good thought, It wasn't there when I got the car but I put one in (just a bolt with a rubber cap on it) I can adjust it out a tad I suppose.
Just tried. That isn't it. The pedal has only a little back pressure as it comes off the floor, then about 3" off the spring "kicks in" and it has a lot of pressure, so as your letting the pedal up from a dead stop it takes conscious effort to be ready to counter act that spring, it's just awkward. I messed the clutch lever at the bell housing though so I may have messed up the geometry of when the clutch disengages.
 
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Clutch Pedal Return Spring

I'm having the same issue. I'm thinking 35 years of Clutch set technology has rendered the "Helper" part of the Spring travel, obsolete.
Unless you are running some serious Full Race Competition Clutch, modern Clutches don't need the Physical Effort that the older ones did. That reduced back pressure might be what is allowing the Spring to keep the pedal on the floor.
Once I get everything bled and working properly, AS IS , I'm thinking of using something like a Throttle Return Spring, just to hold the weight of the pedal off the Master Cylinder so there isn't any pressure on the Slave until it's needed.
The Pedal Backstop is an excellent Idea. These cars weren't designed for people with BIG FEET. I remember on my 74 & 76 I had to bring my left foot in at about a 30 degree angle and operate the Clutch with my Toes rather than my foot, to leave room for my right foot on the Brake.
 
Wish we'd had this conversation a week ago, before I got the Frame support and Masters back in and all hooked up. :wall:
I think it would be possible to mount an Adjustable Stop, to keep the pedal off the floor, similar to the height adjustment on the Clutch and Stoplight Switch. This seems a lot "cleaner" than just "nailing a block of wood to the firewall". :eek: And a lot easier while i had it out for R&R.
I'm not a welder, but I'm good enough at Mechanical Drawing to show someone what I want done. In this case a simple "L" bracket, with a hole drilled in it and a Nut welded to the back for adjustment, welded to the Frame support, at the proper place and angle. Then, just put a Jam Nut on a bolt and run it up in there to stop the pedal wherever you want.
You could even weld a piece of curved metal the size of the Clutch/Brake and use an old Rubber pedal pad for a bumper. :wacko: :)
Or, K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Stupid, grab some Hood & Trunk Adjustable Bumper Stops, the next time you're in the parts yard and build a bracket to fit.
At that price, who cares how long they last? When properly adjusted, most of us will never touch them in normal driving. :cool:

My plan is to keep this car as Stock as possible, at least for now. But nothing wrong with Functional Mods like this and the Brown Wire thing.
Even Bertone might have come up with some of this stuff, given enough time.
Screw the Mouse Trap, let's build a better X 1/9. :headbang:

Plan B: Try to workout a bracket that can bolt in with the 2 front bolts on the Frame Support. Figuring out the geometry with it in the car, could really be a pain in the :eek:.
 
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There is a captive nut right behind the pedal, on the firewall, I put a bolt in there with a jam nut then a rubber cap, probably what the OEM was like. Pedal hits the rubber covered head of the bolt, it stops.
I probably need to adjust everything else.
It feels better without the spring. Over all a bit stiff, but more linear so better.
 
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Firewire???

We know what you mean, but what you say sounds "funny". :nana:

I do that all the time. I know what I'm thinking, but my fingers just seem to go off somewhere else, all by themselves for a second. :eyepop:

Next thing up on my Do List. Pull back the carpet and look for that Captured nut on my 78.
Maybe old Bertone was smarter than we give him credit for.
I've been in the restaurant business for 39 years and more than once I've seen Brilliant ideas get shot don't by some :censored: Bean Counter.
 
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yep, don't know if i typed firewire or my spell correct "fixed' it for me, firewire, Mac high speed peripheral connection, went the way of Beta, better then USB but not adopted,
 
I've never used Auto Correct of any kind. My Spell Chek just underlines anything questionable and I have to keep trying until i get it "right" or just give up. I've been in the resturant bisness for 39 years and still can't spell it right, most of the time. :)
 
No Such Luck on My 78

jvandyke said:
There is a captive nut right behind the pedal, on the firewall,. . .
Click to expand...

Nothing but clean, flat surface. Smooth enough that I might try drilling a hole and installing a Bumper Stop, then Epoxy the Nuts in place. Or I might even have a Nut welded inside the Frunk, but anything that pokes into the storage space will need some kind of protective cover, too.
 
I don't think so, anyway my soft line at the slave is new. I like it without the spring. Leaving it off. Less weight, can feel the improved acceleration too.:nana:
 
Just A Thought

Took a Closer look at mine and cleaned a few years of dirt off and it looks fairly "new", so I'm going to "assume" all those rubber chunks in my bleeder fluid are from the old Brake lines and R&R all Four.:)

At least this time around I can filter the "NEW" Quart of Brake Fluid it took to bleed the system though a coffee filter on a wide mouth gallon jar and reuse it rather than dump it into my Recycle container. If nothing else, keep running it through until it stops "blowing chunks" so I'll know the system is clear & clean.:)
 
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