Best Way To Attack A Starter?

Red Bull 78

Red Bull 78

True Classic
All the books say is disconnect the wires, Unbolt and Lift Out.
Looking at it from the top, all I see are Hoses and Wires that I might have to move or remove to get it out
I can barely get the car high enough off the ground to fidgit with the Shifter Lollipop, so going at it from the Bottom is very unappealling.
Something about having my head on a concrete floor with a 20 lb Starter hanging loose 8 inches over me, just ain't right.

Thinking about getting some Ramps, to get it off the floor, but seem to remember having trouble getting my 74 on Ramps because these cars sit so close to the ground.
This might be one of those Simple jobs it might be easier to farm out to someone with the right tools, rather than waste my limited time, wrasslin' with it micelf.
 
I did it from underneath and it was not too bad

I recently replaced my starter and, once I figured out where the third bolt was, it was not too bad. What it did was:

* remove negative terminal from battery
* jack car up in the back
* put 2 jack stands to hold it up in case the jack failed
* took both wheels off

At this point, from the driver's side, I could see all three bolts. The one on the top is sorta hard to see, but you can see it. Then I:

* crawled under from the driver's side with a creeper (there was just enough room to fit -- couldn't fit with the wheels on)
* loosened the bottom and side bolts to the starter with a 13mm socket
* loosened the top bolt.
* take all 3 bolts out
* From underneath, pull the starter out to unleash it from the teeth in the flywheel
* Tilt it close to 90 degrees downward

At this point, you can see the connections. I rested the starter on the 2 radiator hoses that came down so that it would not fall down when I removed the wires. Mine had 2 ground wires going to one of the bolts (13mm) and one red wire that was just a spade lug. So I

* removed the red wire from the spade on the starter
* took off the 13mm bolt and removed the bolt and the ground wires

Then the starter was free, and I had to fiddle around with it from below until I was able to remove it.

Once I studied it for a few minutes, it was pretty easy.

Putting it back was a bit trickier, but the same. What was hard was getting the starter seated in the right place after re-hooking up the wires.

I can safely say that removing and reinstalling the starter was WAY easier than the alternator.
 
Just What I Needed to Hear

danny said:
. . . I can safely say that removing and reinstalling the starter was WAY easier than the alternator.
Click to expand...

The Alternator is the next thing on my Do List.:wall:
My problem is I only have a 2 Ton Jack that "might" go up to 10".
No Creeper for me. I just unfold a big cardboard box to cushion the concrete and make cleanup easier.
I'm so close to the action that I have to wear my reading glasses to see what I'm doing.:eek:
 
Starter pretty much can only come out from the bottom.

Check the sale circulars of your local chain parts stores and Sears, and maybe Craigslist.

To work on our cars, you MUST have jackstands (four are best but absolutely you MUST have at least two for starters [no pun intended!]), best if all of the same kind (you can maintain a level stance).

Almost every other week, one of them will have a kit on sale that's a low-profile or standard floorjack plus two jackstands for around $65, money well-spent.

And you need a low-profile floor jack. You may not know, but there are jacking points front and rear (not the ones on the side for the tire changing jack) that allow the entire front or rear of the car to be lifted from its respective end with a floor jack. In front look for the double loop between the cooling pipes and at the rear look for the squared loop at the rear end of the under-trans crossmember.

IMG_0234.JPG


For most undercar work, IMO this is the best place for rear jackstands.

IMG_0244.JPG


IMG_0245.JPG
 
Last edited:
They have sales on floor jacks and stands ALL THE TIME. I have a friend that has a HF jack and loves it and I have a couple of there 'sale' jack stands that work great. But as been said, DON'T RELY ON THE JACK, get jack stands - it could literally save your life.

John
 
I have replaced the starter from the top....

....but I have very skinny wrists. It would've been pretty tough, otherwise.
 
As Danny said... but with a few other ideas...

The KEY here is to drop the starter FIRST, then disconnect the wiring... and do the reverse when it goes back in.

Here are some slight differences that seem to work well for me:

1. I loosen all three bolts by reaching DOWN from the top.
2. I jack the car using the left side jack-point and often using the OEM jack. If I use my floor jack, I use the same jack-point and use one jack-stand for added safety.
3. Muscle the starter out by first "collapsing" the radiator hose just under it... and then it should kinda "give birth" to the starter enough and hold it so you can wrench off the wiring fairly easily.
4. Always bench test the OLD starter as well as a new or rebuilt one BEFORE re-installing it. This can be done easily with jumper cables and a screwdriver. Rest the starter in the front trunk and attach jumpers between the starter and the battery... then short the large post to the + terminal on the solenoid so that the entire circuit is tested pulling in the gear and spinning the motor. Use three hands...

HTH...
 
Not that this will help much, but I made a video (boring as hell BTW) about my gear reduction starter..

You can see how small it is compared to the OE unit (I do a comparison and I also show it in the installed position).


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N6G3ZjQC5A8



BTW: I love the starter.. it's quite good! Got it from Csaba.
 
The best way to attack a starter...

The best way to attack a starter is from behind wearing crepe soled shoes. A large metal pipe works well, or a lug wrench.

Not much help I know... :laugh:
 
Gear reduction starter

I think that the existence of the gear reduction starter is a blessing for the X. Just install it, and forget about it. and they come for the 1300 and 1500 engines. At about $ 235.00, they are a little costly, but they become a great deal in the long run.
It would be nice to have an equivalent high quality, direct fit alternator, that charges the battery and keeps the voltmeter needle in the white zone no matter what. Now that would be a great day.
And a new aluminum radiator, perfect fit, great cooling capacity...Hey, I think one of those is comming !!!
 
Red Bull 78 said:
All the books say is disconnect the wires, Unbolt and Lift Out.
Click to expand...

Those books lie. As other have said, it comes out from the bottom, and you need jackstands.

But given the stands, it's really not a bad job at all. Disconnect the ground wire at the battery, undo three bolts reachable from the wheelwell (not even under the car :)) wiggle the thing out, and then disconnect the wires at the starter. Those wires also make sure that when it comes out it won't drop onto your head.
 
budgetzagato said:
The best way to attack a starter is from behind wearing crepe soled shoes. A large metal pipe works well, or a lug wrench.

Not much help I know... :laugh:
Click to expand...


hahah.. There was a question recently about "rear tail lights not working"..

I was gonna ask - hey, how are your front tail lights - are they ok?


I wasn't sure if anyone would appreciate my sense of humour... :)
 
Well, being the contrarian

I have to say I always do it from the top. By laying on the trunk lid, after removing the air cleaner, I can reach in with both hands and have it in and out in a jiffy. This is especially handy with the high torque starter that lacks the dowel pin to keep it in place. I am adverse to spending any more time than necessary on my back under the car. I have a way too vivid imagination.
 
Jack Stands

Rest assured friends, Old "Red" ain't no Fool. This "Red" earned that nickname, busting everything from Golf Cart to OFF Road Coal Truck Tires I could stand up inside of, when I was 19 years old.


I just didn't want to show too much of "Ruby's", not so cute, underbelly.
My real problem is the 2 Ton Jack's limited ability. This jack was for 2 cars that come in Under the "X's" 2100 lbs. It's fine for Brake Jobs, Exhaust R & R and Oil Changes, but can't get it up for major Surgery.
Now, I just have one more reason to get a Bigger Jack than the 97 Camry I'm fixing up for my Daughter, once I can get the Fiat out of my workspace.:laugh:
 
My Options Are Limited

Buy a $180 Floor Jack or pay someone $65 to do it for me?
The Starter cost me $65 so I come out $50 and a few busted knuckles ahead and get back to fixing the real problems a lot faster.
Or would that $50 be better spent now, for a BIGGER Jack, I can also use in future projects?

OK! I'm looking at my wallet, thinking $180 is one LESS CASE of beer a week for the next THREE Months and cancel the Nashville Trip to see ZZ Top.:(:sad:

I'll just be glad when "Ruby" starts feeling like "My Car", instead of someone else's basturd step child.
That was much of the reason for the name change when I got it running.
I bought "The Red Bull", fully aware of what I might be facing.
I like that part, just because of the challenge.
What I wasn't prepared for is a 35 year old bytch, going thru "Mini-Car-Pause".:eek::wacko::mallet::hammer::wall:
But, unlike my "other" EX, at least I can just remove the key and walk away and let Ruby sit, alone in a dark, bug infested garage until I feel like dealing with her again. :laugh::dance::nuts::dance::laugh:

Little Victories!:laugh:

This looks like my best option, any thoughts?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/18119031470...AX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_3239wt_917

Happy Landings
Red
 
Last edited:
Ok ive been there

Here is what you do.

There has to be some sort of new construction in your area. There will be scrap/trash piles. In those piles are perfectly good scraps of wood. your looking for 2x6s preferably.

You can stack them for wheel stops and jack stands. And.... use them under your jack for more lift.

for the jack stands, I would nail the first 4 layers together. dont place them perpendicular or parallel to the body weld seam, you want them at a 30deg angle. your need the very top one to be parallel, but that is the only one.

For under the jack, over lap them like a "#'. this will get the job done more safely than just a jack, and save you buying a new jack.
 
I've Got A Few Ideas Already

I've got Two Jack Stands, that will go to about 18 inches, some left over chunks of 2 x 6's, from installing a door on the garage, before I moved the Fiat into it. A full set of extra wheels that I can use to raise and stabilize the Front End, to keep things closer to level while I get the Rear End up to a workable height.
Tonight, at work, I had a Brain:fart:Fart. We've got stacks of 12" Steel, Deep Dish Pizza Pans, we never use. HOLD ON, hear me out before you LAFF. I wouldn't trust just ONE, but I grabbed a stack of 15 that gives me about a 6" Laminated Steel base for my Floor Jack.
What is the worst that could happen? The Jack could make "Pan" cakes out of them and I'm back to square one. If that happens, I've still got an extra wheel I can use for the 2nd "Rise Upper" for my Floor Jack . Gonna test out the Pan theory, before "Project day"
It will be a multi-step, process. Set the front Tires in the backside of the extra wheels, to act as chocks, then "walk" the Back End up a little at a time, on each side, so things don't get too twisted and shakey.
This would be too much hassle for just a Starter, but while I've got it up there, I've got a few other bottom side things to R & R or check out. If the top side is too high for comfort, it won't be the first time I've had to stand on a Milk Crate to reach into an Engine Compartment.
As usual, I'll get lots of pix of the process, to share with anyone else with a High Rise problem.
 
Red Bull 78 said:
This looks like my best option, any thoughts?
[Happy Landings
Red
Click to expand...

This is what I use. http://www.pepboys.com/product/details/9576485/00020/ $45 at Pep Boys. I needed a low profile jack to get under the front of my G35.

To put the X up high enough to use the max height setting on my jack stands, I have to lift in two stages. Stage 1 gets the rear wheels far enough off the ground to put two 2" thick 12" x 10" planks under the tires. Then I lower the car onto the planks, put the jack onto two more of the same planks, then up it goes again to the max height of the jack (about 14") which lets me use the jacking pads just forward of the rear wheel arch to place the jackstands.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top