1300 or 1500 tensioner?

jvandyke

True Classic
I'm going to pull the cam box to fix oil leak (I sure hope that's where it's coming from--again). Reset my adjustable cam gear to dial in the cam timing and will replace belt and tensioner. Head has been shaved 0.065". Current 1500 tensioner "seems" to provide adequate tension to me and I ran it like that all last summer BUT since tensioner was making noise (again I "think" that's what I was hearing) I was debating going up to the 1300 to get a bit more tightness.
Opinions welcome.
PS I assume the 1300 bearing fits on the 1500 bracket? I'd better go research it again……..
 
My understanding...

...is that the brackets are different too. I can't find the photos to support that right now.
 
1300 bracket, 1300 bearing, 1500 t-belt at .075 shave

Hi Jeff,

I have an MWB perf head, shaved .075 according to the specs and MWB recommends a combo of 1300 bracket, 1300 bearing and 1500 t-belt to get better tension on the belt. Of course, I am not sure what that tells you since your head is shaved "only" .065.
 
okay, I'll keep looking for info,
Also wondering if I should check the head bolt torque, 4th attempt at head gasket replacement last year, finally had success all last summer, retorqued it then so it's been retorqued once and run for a few thousand miles, should leave well enough alone or just put a torque wrench on them and slowing work up to spec and see if any give?
 
thanks, well, if the brackets need changing too I probably won't bother, belt sure doesn't seem too loose to me as is.
Seems the 1500 bearing is "wider" and it's mount is "longer" to accommodate, so a 1300 bearing on a 1500 mount should provide MORE clearance and maybe offset the bearing a bit which may be bad? A 1500 bearing on a 1300 mount would provide less clearance, but who would do that on purpose?
 
Here is one with pictures as well as discussion.

Jim,

What a well-written thread that was!

...and here's a bonus picture from my Turbo124 write up...

Capture_zpsa5e5eee9.jpg


Brian
 
ok not quite thread jacking but, I have read the 1300 belt is 116 teeth, and the 1500 belt is a little longer to accomodate the taller block, so does anyone have the tooth count of a 1500 belt?
 
To further threadjack - I wonder if the Uno Turbo Mk1 uses the 1500 tensioner and belt?!? (It"s not the carbed 1300 belt)

I need to go and count :)
 
I used the 1300 bearing on the 1500 lever/base with my shaved head setup.

Back to the stock 1500 bearing now with the stock (unshaved) Tipo head.

If you take it off, grind a drainage slot in the back, I'm hoping it will keep the coolant out of the bearing...

PN 4462672
68DD423E-520D-47F3-873B-464C80663EE8-966-000000B8F29193BF_zps4b45fb21.jpg
 
118 teeth as well, but it uses a different belt as the uno uses a different tooth profile... and the tensioner is a different type, it doesnt use the spring thru the mount or the same bracket or bearing... but you can convert everything to 1500 belt/tensioner/pullies.

SteveC
 
I'm leaning towards a 1300 tensioner on a 1500 bracket, but couldn't you just add a bit of a spacer of some sort between the spring rod and the bracket to gain a little more push? Or isn't the geometry quite that simple?
Here's a picture from another thread of one Bernice made a sleeve and snap ring for. Maybe drill and tap the "tab" on the bracket and run a bolt in there, fine tune adjustment by how much you turn the bolt in? I know, a lot easier to just use a different parts.
http://www.xwebforums.org/showpost.php?p=50806&postcount=14
 
If I May Ask...

Pulling my motor apart to change the head gasket, I found:
-1300 Belt (116 tooth)
-1500 Bearing (56mm)
-1300 Bearing Bracket

I am almost certain it has a 1300 block, not sure about the cambox.

The motor has been running with this set-up for 8 years since the last belt change and with absolutely no problems at all (until I lost a head gasket).

I plan on replacing all these parts exactly with new. Anybody see any issues? (I hate to ask) :mallet:

I bought the car knowing it had a frankenmotor, but this has been driving me crazy. I will put is all back together this spring.

Thanks
 
that's impossible, I'm sure you only imagined the car running..:)
just goes to show, theory is theory, if it works it works
 
pulled the tensioner bracket off tonight, wow is that bearing shot, it felt pretty bad, after I pulled it off (may have pried on it a bit during bracket extraction) I couldn't even move it by hand! well, barely. Ordered up a 1300 bearing. Shot some PB blaster on the races in prep for pulling off bracket, after a bit the bearing freed up and started spinning decent. I'm going to do a drainage channel Like Hussein did. (or see above)
Here's my drainage channel (I went yellow for this part, I don't know why)
file_zps49e7794b.jpg
 
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Received 1300 tensioner from Midwest. Put bracket in freezer for a few hours, found appropriate sized socked to drift against inner race. Got BFH ready to go….I was easily able to push the bearing onto the bracket by hand, no tools required.:)
Not sure if the temperature difference between the two explains the fit or what (bracket at 0, bearing at room temp, not even heated). The old one fought hard coming off, PB Blaster, a few hours in freezer, propane torch, prying, in the end it exploded and I had to tease the inner race off bit by bit with prying and pounding.
I guess it doesn't really matter.
1300 bearing seems fine on the 1500 bracket, clearance is good, I don't know why it's recommended to switch to the 1300 bracket. Maybe I'll find out the hard way. Only thing I wondered is the nut/washer combo that sits recessed into the inner race might be different, but I don't see how that would matter?
Anyway, all good.
 
All back together with 1300 bearing on 1500 bracket. Adjustable cam gear too, new belt of course. Seems great to me. That old tensioner bearing was making more noise than I thought, my engine never sounded so quiet! Seems to run really well. Really hoping I can feel the cam gear tweak in my butt when I stomp the gas pedal!
 
All back together with 1300 bearing on 1500 bracket. Adjustable cam gear too, new belt of course. Seems great to me. That old tensioner bearing was making more noise than I thought, my engine never sounded so quiet! Seems to run really well. Really hoping I can feel the cam gear tweak in my butt when I stomp the gas pedal!

Thats the fun part! Butt dyno usually doesn't pick up a 1 or 2 degree increment of change, but moving the gear 4 degrees at a time will help you find the best general spot, then a little fine tuning a degree or two in either direction will get you golden.
 
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