1.9 stroker install
- Thread starter elderair
- Start date
lookforjoe
True Classic
Definitely interested to hear how this one goes!
elderair
True Classic
Firing it up!
Hope to video the first start today. The Allison header exits about 3" to the drivers side of where the factory exhaust down pipe comes through the bulkhead. This is a bit perplexing and I wonder if everyone has had this situation arrise. Caused me to have to take a saws all to the rear bulkhead! I guess more air flow around the header! I lack the initial timing of the computronix and I have to find a mount for the coil pack near the original 77 coil wire harness which is on the opposite side as the newer cars. Either that or splice in some wire. Also need to wire an electric fuel pump in. The engine has been primed with a prime stick on the aux shaft and all is well. Now if the plasticine didn't lie and my calculations were correct on the camshaft f/l and so on! I don't do that stuff every day. I do have a good grasp on the nuts and bolts of it all though. Now to get out there and get to work!:woot:
Hope to video the first start today. The Allison header exits about 3" to the drivers side of where the factory exhaust down pipe comes through the bulkhead. This is a bit perplexing and I wonder if everyone has had this situation arrise. Caused me to have to take a saws all to the rear bulkhead! I guess more air flow around the header! I lack the initial timing of the computronix and I have to find a mount for the coil pack near the original 77 coil wire harness which is on the opposite side as the newer cars. Either that or splice in some wire. Also need to wire an electric fuel pump in. The engine has been primed with a prime stick on the aux shaft and all is well. Now if the plasticine didn't lie and my calculations were correct on the camshaft f/l and so on! I don't do that stuff every day. I do have a good grasp on the nuts and bolts of it all though. Now to get out there and get to work!:woot:
elderair
True Classic
Smoke
As an electronics tech I know how important it is not to let the smoke out of things! :laugh: Just filled the radiator and it took about all of 12 qts. of distilled water/antifreeze and coolant booster. Had the front jacked up then gradually let it down and listened to the rush of air out the bleed plug until I got solid flow of antifreeze. I think it's mostly good. A bit in the heater core perhaps. We shall see. Just need to hook up a fuel filter and get the coil pack mounted and away we go! Yeeee Haaaawwww! Carb sync snail is at the ready! Also want to hook up my Digital A/F gauge. Installed the O2 sensor and need to run the cabling up to the passenger compt.
As an electronics tech I know how important it is not to let the smoke out of things! :laugh: Just filled the radiator and it took about all of 12 qts. of distilled water/antifreeze and coolant booster. Had the front jacked up then gradually let it down and listened to the rush of air out the bleed plug until I got solid flow of antifreeze. I think it's mostly good. A bit in the heater core perhaps. We shall see. Just need to hook up a fuel filter and get the coil pack mounted and away we go! Yeeee Haaaawwww! Carb sync snail is at the ready! Also want to hook up my Digital A/F gauge. Installed the O2 sensor and need to run the cabling up to the passenger compt.
lookforjoe
True Classic
The initial timing of the dist is to set the base crank timing * whatever your base is, 8º, 10º, whatever. With the system wired in place & key on, turn the dist CW until the led lights, then go CCW until it just goes out. Make sure the coil pack is NOT connected when doing this.
After startup check the actual timing & adjust from there.
Check the manual I gave you, but pretty sure that's it.
After startup check the actual timing & adjust from there.
Check the manual I gave you, but pretty sure that's it.
elderair
True Classic
First start and 20 plus minutes of running time!
Okay, I did the computronix thing according to the booklet. With my crank pulley on the 10deg. mark the light on the block unit was illuminated and the coil pack unplugged when I first turned the key on. I rotated the block unit cw till the light went out and sloooowwwlly turned the unit ccw until the light just turned on and locked it down. I pumped the accelerator linkage a few times to verify some fuel squirted down the carb throats. I plugged in the coil pack and had my assistant turn the key and the engine popped a couple times right away. I turned the idle screw on the lead carb or the one that the linkage pulls on and had him try again and she fired right up. About 3800rpm until I backed it down to about 2500 or so. The engine had been primed prior to installing the timing belt so I knew all bearings had assembly lube and now break in oil running around them so no dry start. I need to hook up my A/F meter still but initial impressions are that this little beast is going to be a healthy little screamer. Instantaneous throttle response with no hesitation whatsoever! I will post my start up video and a bit of Italian tune up video as well. Sweeeeeet! :dance: Oil pressure stayed above 55 at fast idle and temp stayed in the 190 range with fans cycling normally with the new aluminum radiator. I revs so quick with that 10lb. flywheel also. No drips of any fluids at all. Once I change the break in oil I will add my Mishimoto Thermostatic plate and oil cooler!
Okay, I did the computronix thing according to the booklet. With my crank pulley on the 10deg. mark the light on the block unit was illuminated and the coil pack unplugged when I first turned the key on. I rotated the block unit cw till the light went out and sloooowwwlly turned the unit ccw until the light just turned on and locked it down. I pumped the accelerator linkage a few times to verify some fuel squirted down the carb throats. I plugged in the coil pack and had my assistant turn the key and the engine popped a couple times right away. I turned the idle screw on the lead carb or the one that the linkage pulls on and had him try again and she fired right up. About 3800rpm until I backed it down to about 2500 or so. The engine had been primed prior to installing the timing belt so I knew all bearings had assembly lube and now break in oil running around them so no dry start. I need to hook up my A/F meter still but initial impressions are that this little beast is going to be a healthy little screamer. Instantaneous throttle response with no hesitation whatsoever! I will post my start up video and a bit of Italian tune up video as well. Sweeeeeet! :dance: Oil pressure stayed above 55 at fast idle and temp stayed in the 190 range with fans cycling normally with the new aluminum radiator. I revs so quick with that 10lb. flywheel also. No drips of any fluids at all. Once I change the break in oil I will add my Mishimoto Thermostatic plate and oil cooler!
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elderair
True Classic
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elderair
True Classic
On the Road!
Drove it 25 miles today and it is a rocket! I had no idea what to expect but I am still grinning from ear to ear. Trying not to get on it too hard but it's so willing.
I thought the temp sender was inop at one point when I looked down and saw the temp way low so I pulled over and shut it off. Got out and checked all hoses and nothing felt or smelled hot so I reseated the connector on the sender and fired it up. Temp showed about 180. Stepped on it a bit and no temp! WTF. Then I saw that the heater valve was in the full heat position. I guess with the heat valve open and the hose return in the t-stat housing on the head side instead of the water return pipe on the back of the motor I was bypassing cooled water through the head when I would throttle up. Once I shut off the heat valve it operated normally. I guess I will have to install a pipe plug into the adapter and get a water tube with the 5/8" fitting on it!
Drove it 25 miles today and it is a rocket! I had no idea what to expect but I am still grinning from ear to ear. Trying not to get on it too hard but it's so willing.
I thought the temp sender was inop at one point when I looked down and saw the temp way low so I pulled over and shut it off. Got out and checked all hoses and nothing felt or smelled hot so I reseated the connector on the sender and fired it up. Temp showed about 180. Stepped on it a bit and no temp! WTF. Then I saw that the heater valve was in the full heat position. I guess with the heat valve open and the hose return in the t-stat housing on the head side instead of the water return pipe on the back of the motor I was bypassing cooled water through the head when I would throttle up. Once I shut off the heat valve it operated normally. I guess I will have to install a pipe plug into the adapter and get a water tube with the 5/8" fitting on it!
elderair
True Classic
youtube link
https://youtu.be/zB9FAca-OGI First start up video finally! Boy is my internet DSL slooooowwwww!
https://youtu.be/zB9FAca-OGI First start up video finally! Boy is my internet DSL slooooowwwww!
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fiatfactory
Steve Cecchele
Sounds great Ken!
Get some miles on the engine, and get that puppy on on the rolling road, enquiring minds want to know.
My thoughts are it will have awesome torque (with that stroke length what else would you expect) but the revability overall won't quite meet expectation... reason being total port flow restricting the max revs... as with that capacity drawing thru a port that should be good for around 160cfm (40 valve) I believe the port velocity is going to be very high.
Again the port velocity is a great torque booster... but once it starts to get up in the revs the port velocity will probably want to push past that sweet spot, and that excess velocity can actually curtail performance.
1600cc engine (on paper - using engine analyser pro) comes good for 100hp/litre ... your 1900 runs at 85hp/l with the specs I can determine (guessing the port flow at 160 cfm * 400 thou)
1600 uses the same cam too, and carbs (hp increases with 44's * 160 cfm too)
That's my (semi educated) guess.
BTW the heater fitting on the thermostat end is the INLET to the heater core, the fitting on the pump housing (on your 77) is the return to the block for the water, sounds like you might have the heater hoses reversed?
SteveC
Get some miles on the engine, and get that puppy on on the rolling road, enquiring minds want to know.
My thoughts are it will have awesome torque (with that stroke length what else would you expect) but the revability overall won't quite meet expectation... reason being total port flow restricting the max revs... as with that capacity drawing thru a port that should be good for around 160cfm (40 valve) I believe the port velocity is going to be very high.
Again the port velocity is a great torque booster... but once it starts to get up in the revs the port velocity will probably want to push past that sweet spot, and that excess velocity can actually curtail performance.
1600cc engine (on paper - using engine analyser pro) comes good for 100hp/litre ... your 1900 runs at 85hp/l with the specs I can determine (guessing the port flow at 160 cfm * 400 thou)
1600 uses the same cam too, and carbs (hp increases with 44's * 160 cfm too)
That's my (semi educated) guess.
BTW the heater fitting on the thermostat end is the INLET to the heater core, the fitting on the pump housing (on your 77) is the return to the block for the water, sounds like you might have the heater hoses reversed?
SteveC