Tweaking the AFM

Sparks

Brian Mattson
I recently installed one of Matt's high performance heads on my 85 Bertone. When I posted this, Matt asked if I'd done any AFM re-mapping. According to him, many of his modded X's run lean, and need to have the AFM re-mapped.

Reviewing the archives, I decided to try Matt's AFM air flap test. Sure enough, about 5-6 clicks richer seemed optimal, although the idle appeared way too rich. Road testing showed a noticeable power improvement, no doubt about it.

I remembered a thread comment about how it's neat to put a voltmeter on the O2 sensor lead & watch it dance. Being an electrical engineer, I couldn't resist this one... My voltmeter only showed about 200 millivolts, and no variation when the throttle was blipped. The normal output is roughly between 0 and 1 volt (1,000 millivolts). High readings indicate rich/ low readings indicate lean. I varied the AFM settings, but no meter variations. The sensor was definitely bad.

After two frustrating days, the old sensor was finally out & replaced. Trying the air flap test now revealed best 2,500 rpm operation at 10-11 clicks richer! At that setting, the new O2 sensor stayed pegged at 900 millivolts; way too rich for the computer to handle. I reduced the AFM enrichment by one click at a time. At 7 clicks, the O2 sensor voltmeter came alive, dancing merrily about mid-range. Dropping down to idle, the O2 sensor reading continued dancing about mid-range. Success!

After fine tuning the idle, which required adjusting both the CO adjustment & the plenum idle speed, and re-checking to make sure that the O2 voltage was fluctuating properly, I buttoned it up.

To sum things up, if I was only running at the races, I would probably run at 11 clicks rich. But, for street use, where fuel mileage & emissions are real concerns, I want to see the computer actively controlling the mixture, based upon the O2 sensor. I'm seriously considering adding a small voltmeter to the dash or console, just to make sure things are still working. I strongly advise an analog meter (the "old fashioned" kind with the moving needle), rather than a digital, as the trends are much easier to follow. (Can you imagine driving with a digital number readout tach?)

Brian, "in da UP"
 
Pretty interesting read...

I don't have the 83 X I bought running (and it's going to be a while!) but my 89 Miata has a AFM that many consider to be quite a restriction... even for the early models 1600cc engine.
I bought a larger, higher flowing CFM AFM off a RX7 off ebay, but have been tenative because of all the arguing between guys on miata.net's forum over how many 'clicks' one has to alter it to make it work on the 1.6 liter miata engine...

Add to this the fact that I have a 'Jackson Racing' supercharger kit on my car, an aftermarket header, plus a HKS intake cam going in... I've been a little worried about how if it would be worth trying the 'controversial' larger AFM mod on my car.

Your description of reading the narrow band O2 sensors readings gives me a little confidence to go ahead and try it when I get her all buttoned up!
 
Very cool. I'll keep 7 clicks in mind once I get my head work done & the cam installed. :grin:

For in car observation, a wideband AFR meter is much more practical.

But.... it's a few hundred, and requires it's own O2 sensor & a second bung.
 
In car AFR meter

Hi Joe (or is it Hussein?),

With the very narrow range of the O2 sensor, if the computer is working, the ratio is going to be 14.7:1, or extremely close. So the only question is the whether the computer is working. Seeing the analog meter "dance" is merely an indicator that it is, rather than trying to read a number out of it.

I noticed an interesting pattern on the meter at idle. With more than 8 clicks, the meter is stably pegged high, and the audible exhaust burble reveals the hairier cam. However, at 7 clicks, the exhaust is noticeably more syncopated, and the needle fluctuations follow the burbles. The computer is trying it's best to rich/lean track the lumpier cam. I personally love that sound....

Don't take the 7 clicks as gospel, as each AFM is different, as Matt points out. Who's to say if the PO of my car had played with it? I think the technique of finding the right setting is valid though.

Brian, "in da UP"
 
It's Hussein...

I can't find the link to the pics of the AFM spring adjust, do you have the link?

The deal with the AFR's is that the narrowband only registers what the ECU requires, but that doesn't mean the mixture stays anywhere close to 14.7 under load! With a wideband AFR meter, you will get a better overall picture of what the tune is like across the entire load & rpm range.
 
AFM Spring Adjust

Apparently I didn't go back far enough in the archives to find a picture; I suspect it must be in the earlier archives. Perhaps one of the regulars can help out here. I had already had my AFM apart because my fuel pump ran all the time with the key on. Once I had it apart, I had to analyze, clean, & lube it.

The large black plastic (phenolic?) wheel is what has to move. A spring-wire clamp locks it in place, held by a single screw in the upper left corner. Just loosen that screw, don't remove it. The black wheel has a detented edge and moves by audible clicks. To decrease spring tension (and enrichen the mixture), the wheel moves counter-clockwise. It's easiest to use a fine bladed screwdriver inserted into a tooth nearest the circuit board, which allows you to rotate the wheel with fine movement. By all means, before you start, use a utility knife or scribe to mark the wheel along the edge of the circuit board so you know where you started from. Don't trust memory to keep track of the clicks. I also put a small paint dot on the two teeth on either side of the scribe line (fingernail polish works fine).

When you're done, a slight bead of silicone around the perimeter of the cover will keep things sealed.

Good luck with it; it's easier than it sounds....

Brian, "in da UP"
 
GREAT STUFF, BRIAN... Love reading things like this...

... where there are specifics involved and no guess work or opinions.

Let us know how it performs on the road and if you have any MPG comparisons too!
 
Thanks for the description, Brian.

And your pics, J

web.jpg


the securing 10mm head bolt is the upper left in this pic, correct?
 
This is busy work

You can easily "set up" your AFM up for optimal performance by following the factory adjustment procedure. And it can be done without opening up the AFM.

Use the O2 sensor to set the idle CO% (allen head AFM air bypass screw, not to be confused with the large slotted idle screw on the throttle body). This is the base setting the AFM uses, and the open-throttle outputs of the AFM will adjust accordingly. Once this is set correctly, a good working O2 sensor will help the ECU adjust the mixture at all off-idle situations.

At wide open throttle (WOT) you'll see your meter peg full rich, this is normal and will happen no matter the AFM tension setting.

Lifting the throttle above 2K or so will shut off the fuel pump and so your meter will show full lean. This is also normal and is how the ECU controls lift-throttle backfiring.

Believe me, if Bosch could have done better to balance emissions and performance with the system they would have. Remember that a smoother sounding engine is not necessarily making more power.

The O2 sensor output will vary about 250 millivolts when hot. As it warms up the speed of the variation will increase to several times a second. The O2 sensor does this plugged in or unplugged. It's unnecessary to unplug it for any idle settings because the throttle position sensor (TPS) disconnects it from the ECU at idle. The ECU doesn't vary the signal, the O2 sensor does.
 
O2 sensor at idle

It's unnecessary to unplug it for any idle settings because the throttle position sensor (TPS) disconnects it from the ECU at idle. The ECU doesn't vary the signal, the O2 sensor does.

Are you sure the ECU doesn't read the O2 sensor at idle? Looking at your video above (and my air/fuel gage does the same) you can see the ECU is fluctuating the mixture at idle. Wouldn't that be as part of a closed-loop condition with the O2 sensor giving the feedback? Just wondering...
 
Larger AFM from 86-88 RX7...

...wondering if there is any merit to such a swap -haven't found any threads here or on the old site that discuss it....

EDIT

found this Miata thread on AFM tweaking for 1.6l
 
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Any insight on how the AFM can be tweaked to be smog friendly?

I know the screw on top of the AFM is the Co2. Which way to stay low on readings?

As for the click wheel, Which way to go lean?

Thanks,

Ed
 
Clockwise on the click wheel will lean it out further. Not sure that is a good idea, unless you've already exhausted all the stock tune checks (air filer, plugs, cap, rotor, wires, timing, O2 sensor functionality...)

CO adjust is CC=leaner (decrease CO) C=richer (increase CO)
 
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