Temps with rebuilt radiator

Hi Rod,

I gave that some thought, it is only about $40.00-$50.00 in parts. At this point, I think that money might be better spent on a Pertronix ignition kit to get rid of the point setup on the car.
 
Rod,

Are the temp gauges with electrical senders any good? I can't find a mechanical sender that has an M16 fitting to go into the temp sender port on my engine.
 
I would think an electric would work but sometimes simple is the way to go (can you not get an adaptor) I know many of the gauges I have installed in the past I had to adapt the threads.
 
I would put one inline in one of the hoses so you don't have to do without the existing. There are all manner of aluminum (and some plastic for less money) adapters one could use
 
Karl,
I would put one inline in one of the hoses so you don't have to do without the existing. There are all manner of aluminum (and some plastic for less money) adapters one could use
I looked into that too Karl, but I figured the truly interesting temp would be from the head location. The only hose with a long enough run to accept an adapter is the return hose from the radiator. I figured that temp won't tell me much regarding the high temp in the system. Am I wrong?

I would think an electric would work but sometimes simple is the way to go (can you not get an adaptor) I know many of the gauges I have installed in the past I had to adapt the threads.
Rod,
The electrics just require a wire into the passenger compartment, easier to do. The mechanicals require a hole large enough to pass the whole sensor bulb/retaining nut assembly thru the firewall. I haven't found a hole like that that is already there. And no, I haven't found an adapter yet. Still looking.

The 124 seems to be running well enough for driving around town at this point. I still need to flush the 124, although the coolant stays so clean its hard to imagine much coming out.

I am setting this project aside for a while. I have a week long family reunion to attend.
 
A spring time update on the car running warm... I took the car to Cars'N'Coffee this morning, so its on my mind.

I think I have live with the fact that this car runs a little warm, especially in traffic after coming off the highway.

Driving around town without any highway, the car runs just a bit over center on the gauge. Same while on the highway, but once I get off the gauge climbs near the red (see picture in post above) at traffic lights. It eventually settles down to about 3/4 on the gauge if I keep driving on local roads and the gauge never gets into the red. I think the GM 3 speed automatic should have been a four speed. It is really revving on the highway.

Last year I had the rad cleaned and replaced all hoses and the thermostat. Since then I have added a Pertronix ignition and re-timed the car. I also put in a new rad fan switch and took out the PO's jumper that made the fan run all the time. Temps do seem more predictable now and I drive the car more, since I am less worried.

Speaking of the thermostat. I am not a fan of the external thermostat on this car. I am sure it is designed to operate at a certain temp, but come on... it is hanging out in space connected to the block by rubber hoses. Block mounted t-stats just make more sense to me.

I have also started running the 87 octane "regular" gas rather than premium, it is all ethanol blend here in STL. Maybe I am imagining it, but the car seems to run fine and even a few degrees cooler on the 87. I have no science behind that, just observation since I switched the fuel.

So that's the update. Things are good for now, but the STL summer isn't here yet. That is another test. :)
 
My 124 has a head mounted thermostat which the early twin cams used. There are a lot of arguements about remote thermostats versus the head mounted one.

The reality is that the remote is better, it is two stage, so it allows circulation during warmup. The second stage opens to allow full flow through the radiator.

Personally I don’t trust your gauge. :)
 
My 124 has a head mounted thermostat which the early twin cams used. There are a lot of arguements about remote thermostats versus the head mounted one.

The reality is that the remote is better, it is two stage, so it allows circulation during warmup. The second stage opens to allow full flow through the radiator.

Personally I don’t trust your gauge. :)


It could be the gauge for sure Karl. I bought a new sender and saw no difference, but the gauge is still the factory unit. I was going to get a modern gauge with actual temp numbers on the face, but I have already spent plenty of money on this car. I am going to live with it as is.
 
Back
Top