X1/9 Cylinder Head Wrenches

Colltech

'85 and '83
I keep seeing a very expensive set of two specialty wrenches on eBay that I think were specifically designed for tightening those hard to reach head belts:

X19 wrenches.png


Admittedly, its been been many a year since I've had to torque an X head myself. They are advertised for $500 - which seems ludicrous to me. I have a friend at work who thinks he can make these for MUCH less. So I have a some questions:

1. Are these needed for all year X1/9 heads?
2. Is there a demand for these if we make them at a reasonable price (less than $175.00)
3. Can anyone loan me an existing set to use for making a jig? (free set in return!).

Let me know if you REALLY would buy a set. The more takers, the cheaper the price!

Ed
 
There are two sizes the older 1300/1500 carburetor cars (74-79 I believe) use the 19mm and the 1980 -88 use the 17mm size. Those wrenches on EBay say they are 17mm, but looking closely at the pictures I see a 19mm part number on the wrench. If I'm not mistaken.

I would be in for a 17mm set if reasonably priced. I don't currently have a set, but do have a few 19mm sets. Might be able to use the 19mm set for a template possibly since the only difference is the size. Just let me know.
 
Hi Ed,

They are used on all Xs to torque the head when the cam box is on. Take the cam box off and you won't need these. Of course, now you have to remount the cam box and check the valves again. :(

The other issue is head bolt size. The engines up thru mid 1980 are 19mm and then they switched to 17mm heads IIRC for the 10-bolt FI heads. I am unsure what the head size is on late model 14-bolt FI head bolts. I think those had 10 17mm bolts and then 4 smaller for the extra holes... maybe??

I do have a set of 19MM wrenches I can loan you if you want to give this a try.
 
I have a set of each (17mm & 19mm). I would be willing to loan them out if you get to the point you need them. PM me.
 
Also, some of the bolts I have bought for 1500's in the last few years have had 15mm heads.
I have made my own, but be aware if you make them from existing spanners by heating and bending/welding you will most likely have to re heatreat them to stop them bending.
 
I may be missing something but in 35 years of wrenching on X I always thought these were just "special factory tools"...
Some Japanese heads are TTY and done in angular steps but the X is a discrete pdft no? Two or three steps depending on the year.
Looking at them a second time I see the drive attaches directly in line with the socket head so we're looking at high dollar obstruction socket set...
Jim,
I assemble the top end on the bench. Torque the cam tower with new gasket. Set all my clearances as close to mid way between high and low. Pop the tower off keeping the buckets in their assigned seats and install the head. Then torque the tower on the head. I have never seen a clearance change let alone have one need a shim changed.
I am hoping this not reason I can't win the lottery... :)
I think Papa Tony pointed out what makes a shade tree mechanic and work arounds are used more often then the specialized tools.
Good luck with the project!
Regards
 
Also, some of the bolts I have bought for 1500's in the last few years have had 15mm heads.
I have made my own, but be aware if you make them from existing spanners by heating and bending/welding you will most likely have to re heatreat them to stop them bending.

+1, most if not all of the readily available replacement head bolts of the "stretch / aka TTY" variety have the 15mm heads with integrated washers, because these were used on second generation SOHC engines.

In theory the TTY bolts do not require retorquing, BUT that assumes you use the other half of the no-retorque system, and that is the specific Goetze brand ASTADUR or Fel-Pro no-retorque style of head gasket, which are in short supply.

Given that sooner or later all of the Astadur or Felpro gaskets will be used up, that means the wrenches will need to be made to fit the 15mm head bolts, in addition to the 19mm and 17mm, to accommodate the retorque that will be needed when someone combines new 15mm bolts with a standard FIAT SOHC traditional head gasket.
 
My Elring TTY bolts do come with retorque instructions.
I would be in for a 15mm wrench.
 
I keep seeing a very expensive set of two specialty wrenches on eBay that I think were specifically designed for tightening those hard to reach head belts: They are advertised for $500 - which seems ludicrous to me.

That's a forum members ad.... and no they are not worth that much!

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Fiat-SOHC-128-X19-X1-9-1300-head-re-torque-tool-19mm-/332020397311

I also stock them in 5/8 to suit the 16mm wrench size ARP M10 12 point nuts

they don't make a 17 or 15mm size, but they do make a 9/16 (14.29mm) and 5/8 size (15.875mm)

The 5/8 size already fits 16mm ARP 12 point nuts nice and snugly ... with a little judicious filing one of these could be made to fit the 17mm size, and the 9/16 could be made to fit 15mm bolts.

SteveC
 
I have a set of the factory 19mm ones, dont know where my 17mm ones got off to. but you are welcome to use the 19mm ones for a model if you wish. I dont own an x1/9 now, but i may find one in the future. Just waiting for that perfect one to drop into my lap.
 
If you are going to engineer the tool and produce it, then why not design it with intchangable heads so one tool set can be used for all heads/bolt sizes. If it was easy someone would have done it, but if you figure out a way It will be a winner. Possibly something like a "crows foot" wrench but with sockets rather than open end wrenches..
 
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If you are going to engineer the tool and produce it, then why not design it with intchangable heads so one tool set can be used for all heads/bolt sizes. If it was easy someone would have done it, but if you figure out a way It will be a winner. Possibly something like a "crows foot" wrench but with sockets rather than open end wrenches..

There's no room. There is barely room for a thin wall ( wrench type) head as it is - you don't have much clearance for getting that 60/30º or straight 90º twist, and adding any material in the form of interchangeable heads would kill it, IMO.
X19_0290.jpg
X19-0302a.jpg


My home made one (of the deeper offset tool, not the one above)
X19-0301.jpg


Using a spanner is a BAD idea - I made that mistake with the other tool -
X19_0302.jpg
X19-0302.jpg


- had to redo it with rod (3/8 socket extension) as the wrench pretzeled by the time I got to the 10th head bolt for the final 30º twist. Good job I clearly marked the bolt heads relative to the cam box or I would have been screwed.
 
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