I'll try to check the other side, this weekend.Some slack on the distributor side is normal.
There should be no slack on the tension bearing side between the crank pulley and cam gear.
That "turn in reverse" trick is handy when first installing the belt as well. It's a lot easier to get the belt teeth into the right slots on the cam sprocket if you've let the sprocket turn slightly forward; and then use the wrench to turn the sprocket backwards into the exactly right position. The belt goes over the tensioner more easily when you have all the slack on the tensioner side, and you will know at once if you're off a tooth - the cam sprocket will turn a full tooth too far backwards.Then put a wrench on the cam pulley and turn slightly in reverse rotation. This transfers all of the slack from the aux shaft side to the tensioner side.
That looks way too loose and as the others have said, if it were my car I'd be replacing it. Before you do, though, put a wrench on the cam sprocket and try turning it backwards (turn the motor to halfway between TDC and BDC first if you are cautious). If you can move it back exactly one tooth you'll know what was wrong the first time.I was wanting to paint my timing cover, and I noticed there seemed to be a lot of slack in the belt. Is this amount normal?
Crankcase breather.What is that filter connected to? The one right above your distributor cap?
If you're putting enough torque on the cam sprocket for the resistance of the pistons to come into play that defeats the purpose of the exercise - we want the cam to move no farther than the belt will allow while the crank remains fixed, and that doesn't require much force at all. In particular, it's no more force than is needed to turn the am when the belt is completely off.Just be cautious. I did that many time before without problems. But recently, turning the cam sprocket backward did just unscrew the cam bolt. Then, turning it forward the bolt sheared off. I had to remove the belt, drill and use a reverse drill bit to remove the remaining of the bolt and start again. I will NEVER turn the cam again using the cam bolt if everything is in place (ie resistance of the pistons moving up and dow). I will use the crank nut, even if it not as easily accessible.
Yep, that sounds like a tooth or so out. You'll likely find that you can rotate the cam backwards with not much force at all to transfer the slack to the tensioner side, and when you do you'll see that the cam is retarded a bit.Thanks for the replies. I'll look into the belt this weekend. I think the tensioner side of the belt is pretty tight, and can only "deflect". The dizzy side, as you can see; is very sloppy. I'll update this thread, when I have more info.
I would add that it is possible (but not highly likely) for the tensioning spring to become weak and loose some of its "tension". I haven't checked to see if there are new replacement springs available. But I'm not overly concerned about replacing mine. However I do give the tensioner piston/rod a little "nudge" from the other end to help assure it has fully moved forward (to the 'tensioned' position) before tightening the bolt. And on that note, make sure the tensioner rod moves freely. I've had them get corroded/dirty and stiff to move, which will effect it's ability to 'tension'.The tensioner's spring will properly tension the belt.