Lower Trans Shield

robsad

robsad

True Classic
OK, to add to my list of dumb questions due to my lack of planning and poor documentation here's another. There are four holes in the lower trans shield. The one on the upper right was obvious (I think). There are two others in the middle and a stud on the lower left. I'm thinking the two middle ones should have a bolt before the trans is bolted to the engine block or do these two have any other function ? When I first removed this engine last year the lower shield just fell out on to the floor telling me that someone forgot to bolt the thing in when I had some work done back in the mid 80s. Explains some of the intermittent rattling sounds that I heard from the rear while driving for the last 30 years. And what is the small stud for ? Thanks for all of your patience and help through this process. I'm hoping to be driving the car before the snow flies.

Bob

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IIRC.... Those three lower holes look like a match for the lower engine mount. Two bolts and a stud in a triangle pattern.
 
JimD said:
IIRC.... Those three lower holes look like a match for the lower engine mount. Two bolts and a stud in a triangle pattern.
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This is correct. HOWEVER!!!!! Your stud is in the wrong position. It is critical that the stud be located in the forward most position next to the shift rod. Using a bolt in the forward position is likely to end up jamming the shift rail and preventing it from moving. The bolt will also break through the case into the shift rod bore and cause an annoying leak.

So move the stud to the forward position and use bolts in the two rear positions. DO NOT over torque the bolts or nut. IIRC the torque value is 18 ft/lbs.
 
JimD said:
IIRC.... Those three lower holes look like a match for the lower engine mount. Two bolts and a stud in a triangle pattern.
Click to expand...
Jim,
You are correct - just went down and checked the pattern and it looks like a match, Thanks !
 
Steve Hoelscher said:
This is correct. HOWEVER!!!!! Your stud is in the wrong position. It is critical that the stud be located in the forward most position next to the shift rod. Using a bolt in the forward position is likely to end up jamming the shift rail and preventing it from moving. The bolt will also break through the case into the shift rod bore and cause an annoying leak.

So move the stud to the forward position and use bolts in the two rear positions. DO NOT over torque the bolts or nut. IIRC the torque value is 18 ft/lbs.
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Steve, Thank you, Thank you !! This tells me that the rebuilder put the stud back in the wrong place ! Since those bolts are long gone can you tell me what size they are ?
 
robsad said:
Steve, Thank you, Thank you !! This tells me that the rebuilder put the stud back in the wrong place ! Since those bolts are long gone can you tell me what size they are ?
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Also, this is a four speed. Does that make any difference in the stud position ?
 
robsad said:
Also, this is a four speed. Does that make any difference in the stud position ?
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It does not. I have used a bolt in that position, but you have to be very careful that it is not long enough to bear on the shift rail and break through.
 
ng_randolph said:
Perhaps I misunderstood, but all of this has to go on after the transmission is bolted to the engine. I don't think you'll clear the flywheel otherwise.
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You are correct. Sometimes the shop manuals leave out a lot of useful info like the sizes of hardware, etc. My fault though. I was a bit lax in some of the sequence of events in the teardown that would have saved me some time. That's why I'm so grateful for our X community to bail me out on some details.
 
Yes, the shield and mount are installed after the transmission is in place. The shield covers the flywheel as does the mount.

The bolt is 8x1.25. The most common size on the car. The bolt length should be about 1" to ensure good thread engagement. Same position for the stud on both 4 and 5 speeds.

If the rebuilder is who installed the stud in the wrong location, I hope that is not an indicator as to his knowledge of the X1/9 4 speed and his ability to produce a quality unit.
 
EricH said:
It does not. I have used a bolt in that position, but you have to be very careful that it is not long enough to bear on the shift rail and break through.
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Correct. If you use one of the bolts that were originally fitted to the two rear positions in the front position it will break through the case and jam the shift rod. A shorter bolt may be used but the stud makes it much easier to locate the shield and mount. Trying to hold the two into position and thread a bolt is difficult at best.
 
Steve Hoelscher said:
Correct. If you use one of the bolts that were originally fitted to the two rear positions in the front position it will break through the case and jam the shift rod. A shorter bolt may be used but the stud makes it much easier to locate the shield and mount. Trying to hold the two into position and thread a bolt is difficult at best.
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Steve,
I measured the depth of the mounting holes In question. They're 1 1/4 inches deep. If you subtract the thickness of the motor mount ( 1/4 ") plus a washer, you're thread engagement on a one inch bolt is now less than 3/4". Is a one inch bolt still long enough ?
 
That should be adequate. In my experience a longer bolt won't thread all the way to the bottom of the hole. Apparently the factory didn't cut that threads to the full depth.
 
Is that a switch I see just to the left of the dust shield?

I have heard rumor of a neutral switch on the early car's. (would love to put a neutral switch with the thought of a remote start button) (so it would only work if the car was in neutral)
 
Rod Midkiff said:
Is that a switch I see just to the left of the dust shield?

I have heard rumor of a neutral switch on the early car's. (would love to put a neutral switch with the thought of a remote start button) (so it would only work if the car was in neutral)
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Yes, that's the switch for the seatbelt interlock system - only found on 1974 models.
 
Ah so thats the neutral switch location! If I recall correctly I wanted to include that in series with the engine bay starter button to make sure I didnt try cranking the engine while in gear and standing by it inside the garage! I will have to study up on its wiring again!
 
Steve Hoelscher said:
That should be adequate. In my experience a longer bolt won't thread all the way to the bottom of the hole. Apparently the factory didn't cut that threads to the full depth.
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Steve, before I bolt My four speed to the engine I had the rebuilder install a new clutch release lever along with a new release bearing. I'm wondering about this lever. I see there is a set screw on the shaft. Does the release fork have to be adjusted or is it fixed ? Also When I grab the lever I can move it back and forth with no resistance. Should this be rigid at this point or will this change when the cylinder and spring are in place and the tran is bolted to the engine ?
 
robsad said:
Also When I grab the lever I can move it back and forth with no resistance. Should this be rigid at this point or will this change when the cylinder and spring are in place and the tran is bolted to the engine ?
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It will move freely until it's bolted to the engine and the clutch slave rod is adjusted to get the right free play. Right now the release bearing is sliding freely along the shaft, but once installed moving it will push it up against the springs on the pressure plate.
 
EricH said:
It will move freely until it's bolted to the engine and the clutch slave rod is adjusted to get the right free play. Right now the release bearing is sliding freely along the shaft, but once installed moving it will push it up against the springs on the pressure plate.
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Thanks Eric and all !
 
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