Performing Honda K24a3/AST5 6spd Conversion

lookforjoe

True Classic
Aug 2019- I'm starting a new thread, now that I've moved from preparing for the conversion to actually performing it - only took almost a year to get to this point :D

12/'22 NOTE: Most if not all IACV & TPS issues (2020) were due to my initially using non-OEM aftermarket components, and with the TPS, the incorrect one for the RSX application. Beyond that, the WOT values issue was due to the shortened pedal lever, which resulted in insufficient throw at the throttle body. This is using a K-Tuned 72mm TB. Using the factory RSX TB may vary the results. 2022 TB issues were a result of my modification to the TB for cruise control installation

Mileage when speedo replaced with GPS Marshal: 139683

Preparing thread is HERE. 1st post has links and detailed info on parts / mods for the conversion.
Electrical terminal ID

INDEX:

Page 1: Aug; prelim frame cuts, MWB subframe welding, trunk floor removal, initial drivetrain test fit, shifter install
Page 2: prelim fuel sys layout, clutch hard line, rear brake layout, gas tank seal, Fuel sender/filter/float, header cuts, prelim clutch master, drivetrain removal, begin welding crossmember inserts
Page 3: Sept'19; aperture templates, SS frame inserts & aperature construction & welding/bonding
Page 4: aperture construction, right inner frame repair, bulkhead modding, priming & painting bay
Page 5: Sept/Oct; trunk access lip, left frame rail modding, rear crossmember bracing, eBrake cover modding, rear sway bar brackets, mounts, AC accumulator install, paint of rest of frame/bay area, main power cable to trunk, aperature & trunk access covers, left forward mount bracket, rivnuts for access panels, gas tank install, EVAP nitrile line install, heater valve, feed & return hose layout, brake hard line fabrication, pump, filter, FPR & fuel line layout
Page 6: Bulkhead insulation, tunnel wire harness grommet holes, AC #8 hardline to press. sw., Tunnel wiring routing, some bay wiring, hybrid axle assembly (fitment issues, operator assembly error), EMS & fuel pump wiring to trunk, rear access panel connectors, ebrake cables & rod install, undercoat, 2nd drivtrain test fit, hose, wiring, vacuum, AC frost valve, spare well relay box (bay fan wiring) & vacuum cannister bracket, prelim axle install, locked diff issue
Page 7: Nov'19; Header pie cut welds, AC low press switch housing, Clutch Master final set up, sway bar end link C/arm mounts, AC compressor hose prelim layout , Drivtrain removal #2
Page 8: Rear Hub Bearing Replacement, Cabin -Engine harness connectors, Transaxle disassembly, Bayfan sender install, Speed sensor problem, RDX injector adaptors, Fuel pressure sender & guage T, Oil temp gauge harness, AC hose crimping, Drivetrain reinstall #3 - positioning , trans fill, suspension, brakes , slave cyl fitment, Header collector align, AC compressor hose & fittings, Gas pedal mod, throttle cable & linkage setup, Battery cable install, Oil temp sender / drain plug, orifice tube layout, gutted expnsn valve install
Page 9: Nov/Dec; AC #8 condensor hose, press. sw. install, shifter cable, Charcoal canister final fit, coolant fill (and t/stat, branch hosuing leaks), Begin exhaust component layout/tack weld, replacement branch housing prelim install.
Page 10: Weld & install branch housing, begin seam welding exhaust, exhaust hanger setup, trunk & exhaust bay heat shields & floor, header shield & support bracket, design for gas pedal return spring
Page 11: Dec'19/Jan'20; Exhaust welding, modular EMS relay box mount & wiring, new tire & wheel, gas pedal return spring install, carpet install, EMS relay box wiring
Page 12: relay box wiring, spare well relay box wiring, EMS cooling fan & duct layout, EMS adaptor harness, ELD module install, mat latex backing, CIEKA test fit, EMS trunk harness, ECU & bay fan install, Spare well wiring, 1st key on trial
Page 13: Jan'20 EMS start up (wiring) issues, trunk wiring cover, Fuel sender cover, additional heat shields, software install
Page 14: Mat cleanup, clutch bleeding, 1st startup, heater core leak, final exhaust bay heat shield, TPS issues, error codes
Page 15: Heater core bypass, software teething issues, Plenum leak, custom gasket
Page 16: Feb'20; tuning, trunk carpet, ivtec emblem, 50º cam gear install, speedo gps transmitter, aux gauge panel
Page 17: aux gauge wiring/install, shifter mod, dual master setup, Cluster design, Brake Master / Clutch Master revision, drive & leak, cluster fabrication & install, CEIKA brake install, Pedal assy. Install, shifter gate assy reseal, new wheel/tire install, amp.temp gauge install, additional exhaust hanger, revise OP sender
Page 18: Feb/Mar '20; Exhaust coupler reweld, brake balance bar adjuster install, bluetooth stereo in glovebox, car washed, interior done, rework, AC compressor lines, retorque outer CV's, minor oil leaks, LS 4.9 AEM WBO2 (30-4110) , IACV issues,
Switch to RSX ECU 37820-PND-A63
Page 19: VTC housing seal, temp IACV bypass, AC compressor line fitting revision, coolant smell, RDX injector harness sockets & terminals, fill AC, 222 miles on motor
Page 20: Revise keyless entry, BT, rewire for '80 style console switches, revison of AC compressor hose layout, recrimp some AC hoses, refill AC
Page 21: IACV diagnosis
Page 22: IACV/TPS cont'd., AC low press revision, AC on circuit revision (idle comp), TPS/IACV wiring, OEM IACV install (resolved most idle issues), splash shield install, heater return hose seepage ..
Page 23: Mar/Apr' 20; SCS signal to OBDII, repl. left axle seal, rpl. #8 AC hardline with reduced barrier hose, 355 miles, revise ECU fan controller, resolve drivability / tip in issue FINALLY May 2020 Page 30 Dallara Thread Engine Cover Mesh
May 02 2020 Went off-road - damage repair thread
Page 24: 72mm K-Tuned TB and revised TPS install.
Page 25: Sept; Leakdown test - HG leak into coolant system. Castor rod bushings, revised sway bar end link. K20Z3 Cylinder Head.
Page 26: Oct/Nov '20; Layout for shifter revision (dogleg, Volvo shift & 6speed knob). Begin drivetrain removal #4. Add watercooled TIG torch.
Page 27: Nov; Drivetrain removed - NOTE: used engine support instead of hoist. Finish welds on K subframe. Water pipe removal & tunnel cover revision.
Plane block surface, assemble motor. Install MFactory 4.00:1 ring & pinion. Install SS water pipes. Install drivetrain #4, axles, suspension.
Page 28; Nov/Dec'20; Install EMS, shifter, console, mod 160ºF T/stat to fit (resolved high operating temp issue). revised ECU fan
Page 29: Console Wiring, Limiter straps for rear axles, intake cover, splash shield, dash removal
Page 30: Relay / Fuse panel (layout) removal / rewiring, Binnacle Mod Dash Recover
Page 31: Jan'21: VW wiper delay relay, (Relay Mod thread) power supply rewire, Heater box removal & disassembly
Page 32: Heater box control valve, driver side floor pan
Page 33: Jan/Feb'21: Driver's floor pan replacement section
Page 34: Radiator install mod / tub cleanup, fan wiring, wiper relay cleanup
Page 35: Feb/Mar: Frunk Fuse/relay panel, Fan connectors, VW temp sensor connector, brake ducts, heater core detail, rad hose mod, inner strut tower rust repair
Page 36: Mar '21 inner strut tower repair cont'd, trunk relay panel bracket, strut tower reinforcement, lights chime relay
Page 37: DS cowl repair, Dash reinstall, Henk Carpet prep, front speaker install, cluster re-wire/install,
Page 38: April/May'21: remove dead pedal (LS carpet install) , final rust hole - RS inner sill, RS carpet install, Engine Cover reinstall, cover strut install, 12" FFD fans install, Carlisle Import Show
Page 39: Volvo 240 HL switch, move bay fan sensor, Dyno Tune 6/01: 195WHP/165WTQ, (lack of) Cam advance issues
Page 40: June '21 cooling concerns, fan onset temp - rewire low temp to additional relay, AC compressor mount (again), exhaust restriction?
Page 41: System WBO2 issues. New Denso 234-9066 Rework O2 sensor placement downstream, Davies EWP80 consideration
Page 42: AC comp hose, TPS rewire, air ducts to oil pan, bypass breather / PCV (oil comsumption)
Page 43: Aug '21 Revised fuel filter mount, Nyack car show, comp & leakdown tests , Dyno, MWB open house trip 4047 miles on K24
Page 44: A/C compressor hose revision (again), new injectors, Dallara Wing/Trunk lid fitting, Header discussion
Page 45: Header - cut bulkhead, mod PLM header (2" runners)
Page 46: Oct '21 Header 4-2 & 2-1 collectors, exhaust layout (2.5" v-bands & pipe), lower crossmember relieving for Header clearance, top cross plate
Page 47: Cross braces, upper cross plate, trunk access panel, Hood Pin ideas. Exhaust U bend, flex, cat layout, figuring out hangers. wrong Solo Performance muffler (MACH23) Heat Shield Discussion
Page 48: Nov '21 - spot welder for access panel, muffler, tail section/resonator, left hanger install.
Page 49: Trunk floor revisions, cross brace aperture welding, engine cover latch
Page 50: latch revision, heat shielding for header proximity, exhaust install, O2 sensor failure & AFR issue, install modded cross brace
Page 51: welded DS sill/bulkhead repair, ideas for bracing bulkhead/sill/floor
Page 52: Dec'21 - sill reinforcement,
May2022
frame straightened, Dallara Wing painted, new mesh ordered for engine cover, July2022 - alt died, diagnose Cam codes
Page 53: July 2022 Fix battery drain via EMS relay & fan, determined that timing chain broke
Page 54: chain failure discussion, begin drivetrain removal #5, assemble crank/rods/pistons/carrier in replacement block, (listed steps for) drop drivetrain
Page 55: July/Aug'22 - Stripping old block, prepping replacement block, modding EMS harness, revise heater return & AC mount bracket, figure out cruise control elements, install RBC head, attach transaxle
Page 56: clean up Plenum/TB flanges, add vac ports, wire cabin side extra harness housings, run Vintage Air heater valve wiring, cruise control & WBO2 signal wiring, revise AC mount bracket on IM, figure out cruise actuator & module mounting, heater valve & pot mounted, +15 fuse panel in spare well added, cruise module bridge harness, misc spare well wiring cleanup
Page 57: Aug'22 - Drivetrain reinstall #5 (mileage at install 4727/ 144,410), new idler pulley & longer belt 6PK1670, cleanup PLM header flange & use MLS gasket, add copper gaskets to VBand flanges (3) that were sooting/leaking (creates discrepancy between WBO2 readings) first startup, add 2nd TB wheel for cruise control. Modify cruise actuator cable. Fit new SS engine cover mesh.
Page 58: Aug/Sept'22 - Quebec Pics, Cruise cable/bracket/wheel, engine cover SS mesh, AC comp rewire, Cruise pedal switches & control head installed, TB/idle control issues
Page 59: plane intake plenum, header/collector. More TB (KTuned) issues, exhaust rattle. Setting WOT values in software
Page 60 Sep'22 Throttle control, throttle pedal replacement. Walkaround video.
Page 61 Jun'23 Replaced WBO2 w Denso 234-9066. AC belt shredded. Nov'23 - real WBO2 w/ Honda 36531-RBB-003
Page 62 Nov '23 - remove ELD. Tried to buy an 80gal compressor. Added YT slideshows
Page 63 Mar'24 - replace AC clutch. New belt length 6PK1650. Note - to bypass AC use 6PK1345

* . * . * . * . * . *

So (Aug 2019), the bay is basically stripped and washed (except clutch & brake lines, not prepared to disconnect those yet)

I verified my hoist setup works nicely, lifted the rear higher to make it easier to get into the bay

IMG-20190810-120710.jpg


Cut the first section along the crossmember first. The pas side end of the cut needs a repair section where the original was rusted through.

IMG-20190810-174500.jpg


IMG-20190810-174553.jpg


Removing the pas side eng mount bracket led to this (note I also removed most of the rain pocket where the ign ECU lived at one time, I plan on mounting an AC accumulator there) :

IMG-20190810-170028.jpg


I have to make a repair panel for this area

IMG-20190810-174556.jpg


AFM and expansion tank brackets removed

IMG-20190810-174503.jpg


Basic tools I used: Angle Grinder/Cutter, Sawsall, Spot weld drill, Hammer & Cold Chisel. Eye, Ear & Nose protection.Tried to vacuum debris as I went, to mimize amount of sitting loose metal particles. I taped/masked off the external 1/4 & rear tail section to protect the paint (not shown).
 
Last edited:
Was there a previous fiberglass repair in that area? It looks a bit nasty.

Interesting on the removal of the rain water holder, do you think it has much of a structural function or just to hold the trims and electrical appliances on that side?

Having the hoist on that secondary adjustable beam will likely pay off in the future as you get offset loads and the car wants to lean to the one side, you will be able to compensate by moving the lift point from left to right.

Nice prep for what is coming.

Given all the prep to the engine I am betting this will on the road again before school starts.
 
Was there a previous fiberglass repair in that area? It looks a bit nasty.
Interesting on the removal of the rain water holder, do you think it has much of a structural function or just to hold the trims and electrical appliances on that side?
Having the hoist on that secondary adjustable beam will likely pay off in the future as you get offset loads and the car wants to lean to the one side, you will be able to compensate by moving the lift point from left to right.
Nice prep for what is coming.
Given all the prep to the engine I am betting this will on the road again before school starts.

Yes, there was fiberglass there.

I don't see how the 'waffle' area of the rain tray plays any part in structural support. I'm going to try to leave the lower bridge.

I would like to have it done before school, but I think with all the re-wiring, AC, etc., it will be more like end of Oct (if I'm lucky).

Today I got a little more done. Tomorrow hopefully test fit the drivetrain.

Got the large bulkhead opening cut out, used Darwoodious's pics for reference . Still have to trim the right rail.

IMG-20190811-180238.jpg


Made a preliminary cut to the left rail, using FiatMonkey's last build for ref, pretty much just removed the existing scalloped area.

IMG-20190901-114515.jpg


Probably have to cut the underside back to the outer skin, but I'll wait until I test fit the drivetrain to finish that.

IMG-20190811-180248.jpg


IMG-20190811-180308.jpg


Removed the bridge between crossmember & trunk floor. Took hour & 1/2 to remove the dynamat to this point.

IMG-20190811-180227.jpg
 

Attachments

  • IMG-20190901-114515.jpg
    IMG-20190901-114515.jpg
    388.7 KB · Views: 75
Last edited:
Forgot to add a pic of the bulkhead being removed - this is how much actually comes off. It's less material than appears when you look at the remainder, as the end sections are more square.

IMG-20190812-093509.jpg


IMG-20190812-093547.jpg


Today I didn't get much done. I sectioned the right frame rail, using pics from Darin, I removed a pie cut from the upper & lower edge of the rail, then pushed the outer panel back in & welded it in place. I cut inboard of the outer edge, so I had the rounded edge to pein over the horizontal edge for a little more meat in the weld seam. I just had to weld something, to get a feel for how it's going to go from here :D

Now the rail essentially runs straight back, instead of bowing inwards. About 1" narrower rail at the rear. Gives room for the pulleys, looking at other's photos.

(Rodger's)

index.php

IMG-20190812-160240.jpg


IMG-20190812-160253.jpg


Ground back the welds, looks OK overall

IMG-20190812-161918.jpg


IMG-20190812-161936.jpg


Small hole along the bottom towards the rear where I blew through needs fixing
IMG-20190812-161928.jpg
 
Last edited:
I removed a pie cut from the upper & lower edge of the rail, then pushed the outer panel back in & welded it in place. I cut inboard of the outer edge, so I had the rounded edge to pein over the horizontal edge for a little more meat in the weld seam.
Ahh, nice. That's a great idea. One less piece to cut and fit - just bend it in!
 
Another slow day. Between the rain and working on an old Volvo for a good friend, didn't get much done. I focused on the cross member reinforcement

IMG-20190813-181330.jpg


1" square tube .0625" (1/16th) wall. I had bought some 3/16" plate & tube stock, I feel that is just too heavy to use for anything on this job, so I returned it all & bought more .125" plate, angle & .0625" square tube stock for all the reinforcement areas.
IMG-20190813-181313.jpg


Have to resolve this with a new top plate
IMG-20190813-181318.jpg
 
Last edited:
Today I stripped the interior as needed, removed the throttle cable & pedal, the shifter assy & rod.
After that I started fitting the subframe. Had to oversize the forward section outer holes and the stock subframe mount points. I cut the handbrake pulley cover, but I don't think I actually needed to.

IMG-20190814-145852.jpg


IMG-20190814-142624-1.jpg


IMG-20190814-142640.jpg


My forward mount will clear the crossmember once I trim a notch in it

IMG-20190814-142729.jpg


After all that, I centered the junction & welded it in place. That was a serious PITA working under the car.

IMG-20190814-162756.jpg


IMG-20190814-162807.jpg


IMG-20190814-163643.jpg


IMG-20190814-164208.jpg


Water pipe proximity to subframe - I have to bend them upward a tad.

IMG-20190814-164211.jpg


Rear fit
IMG-20190814-164217.jpg


Cut out the trunk floor

IMG-20190814-200506.jpg


IMG-20190814-200515.jpg
 
Last edited:
looking great sir !!!

Thank you! How is yours running, it's on the road now?

Spent the morning cutting out the remnants of the floor - I had to grind down the vertical lip that was welded to the frame rails and rear panel. It would have made a messy finish.

IMG-20190815-184548.jpg


After that I cut the sections for the forward and rear cross bracing, the side lips & test fitted everything. I also raised the floor about half an inch or so, since I don't use the floor insert & to give a little extra room underneath.

IMG-20190815-152902.jpg


The vertical lip was cut off the cross brace where the fore/aft lip needs to sit flush
IMG-20190815-152905.jpg


IMG-20190815-152827.jpg


Then I started welding the first crossbrace, and tried to seam weld the factory crossmember bracing where it meets the frame rail. That was a mess as the sealer/undercoat weeped out as I was welding, made a real mess.

IMG-20190815-174747.jpg


This was a real PITA to weld - I had to stand inside the trunk to weld parts of it. I'm claustrophobic - it didn't sit well with me.
IMG-20190815-183225.jpg


Tomorrow I'll move forward with getting the other two braces welded. After that, I'll go back to the lower crossmember repair.

IMG-20190815-184610.jpg
 
Last edited:
Before I started welding today, I made the repair section for the crossmember. My brake doesn't work for this guage Stainless. I was able to start the bend, but then had to basically hammer the angles.

IMG-20190816-114814.jpg


Seam welded the upper inner lip of the control arm mount bracket, and the new panel along the top edge.

IMG-20190816-163618.jpg


Have to grind back the top lip, get it nice & smooth

IMG-20190816-175810.jpg


Welded the 2nd upper brace to the frame rails, and to the first brace. Seam welding the repair panel in progress below

IMG-20190816-163722.jpg


Seam welded the control arm mount bracket lower edge here.

IMG-20190816-175800.jpg


Tomorrow I'll get back to the trunk floor.
 
Pretty productive work today. Got the trunk floor reinforcements all set. Not going to drill & put rivnuts in until I have the insert panel ready.

IMG-20190817-161407.jpg


Didn't want to lift the car from the rear unitl I had at least the PS frame rail closed off, so I worked on that. I cut sections from the removed bulkhead crossmember, I wanted the overlapped weld line to flow to the front edge.

IMG-20190817-180010.jpg


Marker dots indicate where I drilled for spot welds
IMG-20190817-141026.jpg


Welded the small section first, as that completes the frame rail behind the crossmember, running forward to the right rocker section

IMG-20190817-141031.jpg


IMG-20190817-161411.jpg


After that, I added the forward section; I drilled holes that aligned with the remains of the inner brace, (which I flattened in alignment with the new rail position) so I could spot weld the vertical junction for additional support. Top edge is lapped approx 1/8th" over the existing panel - I find it easier to weld the seams with an overlap.

IMG-20190817-173306.jpg


Cleaned up the welds & primed

IMG-20190817-173744.jpg


IMG-20190817-173750.jpg


Hopefully tomorrow I lift the car & do the first test fit of the drivetrain.
 
Last edited:
With all the extra work the four a-arm pickup points are supposed to do with the Midwest kit, would it be out of line to suggest beefing them up somehow?

I think all one can do, besides the extra seam welding, is add a beefy oversize washer on the offside of the mount ears to make them double-wall as are the insides where the subframe ears are already doing that. Don't forget it's also bolted vertically using the stock trans crossmember points.

Today was a busy day. Went for about an 18 mile bike ride in the AM with my younger brother, trying to spend a little more time with him. After that (exhausting :D ) ride, I set about test fitting the drivetrain. I wanted to do it with everything attached, to make sure that works.

A number of issues - The dollie I had the motor on didn't fit well over the engine hoist, so it was quite difficult maneuvering the mess under the elevated chassis, as I lowered it very slowly onto the drivetrain. Had to lever the motor several different ways as I lowered the chassis, in order to clear the torque mount arm & alternator, and then the throttle body (which I damaged as it pressed into the bulkhead by the gas tank), and then the trans by the left rail. Hopefully it's only the bobbin & not the shaft/butterfly. Didn't take pics during this process, it was so fiddly & I was kinda paranoid getting under the car with it suspended from the hoist.

Anyway, it's in place and everything clears. A few adjustments will be needed.

IMG-20190818-161947.jpg


Drivetrain sits level - same as chassis - very slightly lower on the left

IMG-20190818-162212.jpg


IMG-20190818-161958.jpg



IMG-20190818-162203.jpg


IMG-20190818-162222.jpg


Damaged bobbin. Clearance is fine once motor is in final position. I just have to install the TB after the drivetrain. Hopefully I can make the firewall pretty again :D

IMG-20190818-172304.jpg


Wiring will need a little attention - as it sits right now the connectors are a little difficult to access. Plenum clears nicely on the left (right of pic)

The harness plugs are pretty much directly behind the wiring harness aperture - which makes them awkward to access. I'll have to see if I can move the harness a little to the right for better access.
IMG-20190818-162030.jpg


Plenum/runner clearance

IMG-20190818-162015.jpg


Header - problems there

IMG-20190818-162019.jpg


Forward mount has to be relieved for clearance, and slave looks like it may end up touching once I do that

IMG-20190818-162104.jpg


IMG-20190818-162133.jpg


trans clearance. I actually could have cut even less out at the forward end - at least a inch or so

IMG-20190818-162042.jpg


Had to bend the lift hook - it was pressing into the rail. Only had to ease the outer well lip slightly (about 1/4") to give suficient clearance

IMG-20190818-162100.jpg


IMG-20190819-143850.jpg


IMG-20190818-162107.jpg


Rearward webbing clearance off subframe with 1/8" spacer added under mount

IMG-20190818-173209.jpg


Air filter & hose approximate placement

IMG-20190818-164459.jpg



Reservior will likely go about here

IMG-20190818-164518.jpg


IMG-20190818-165414.jpg


Problem with header: it's angled about an inch to high at the collector, which is what I measured at the time I welded it compared to Rodgers

IMG-20190818-162154.jpg


So, either I section the crossbrace or I have to redo the header. I might get away with relieving the forward brace only, I need less than an inch at the point the collector would contact the forward brace.

IMG-20190818-173014.jpg
 
Last edited:
With your skills I would redo the header. The car is going to need all the structure you can offer it.

The clearance of the web is concerning, with rocking under load, sagging of mounts, it likely will end up coming in contact with the structure.

Bummer about mundging up the firewall and the TB.

What’s the story about the clearance next to the Volvo based mount? It appears to be tight up to the structure, is that intentional?

Dan brings up a good point, although it is difficult to add to the legs of the mount, one wonders if there should be a means of coupling the lower structure to the top of the box section using some projection welded areas to attach additional bracketry inside the section. Particularly as you have the right side fully opened up. Coupling the structure in that area with all the engine weight as well as the suspension loading into that area seems like a good idea to look into.

Great to see the ongoing work. Nice job.
 
With your skills I would redo the header. The car is going to need all the structure you can offer it.

The clearance of the web is concerning, with rocking under load, sagging of mounts, it likely will end up coming in contact with the structure.

Bummer about mundging up the firewall and the TB.

What’s the story about the clearance next to the Volvo based mount? It appears to be tight up to the structure, is that intentional?

Dan brings up a good point, although it is difficult to add to the legs of the mount, one wonders if there should be a means of coupling the lower structure to the top of the box section using some projection welded areas to attach additional bracketry inside the section. Particularly as you have the right side fully opened up. Coupling the structure in that area with all the engine weight as well as the suspension loading into that area seems like a good idea to look into.

Great to see the ongoing work. Nice job.

Yeah. I really don't want a bulge in the floor pan to accomodate the header :D

The rear webbing I should be able to grind back to give more clearance. I don't want to lift the motor & end up with driveshaft alignment issues.

The Volvo-based mount has to be cut back. It's not pressing into the rail, but is up against it. Will make for nasty vibrations, besides hacking into the rail over time.

I hope I can clean up the firewall nicely. Gas tank has to be dropped anyway before I weld the forward crossmember, so I can get behind the panel at that point & try to work the panel as flat a possible. I'm probably going to push it in a touch to make sure there is good clearance for the TB and the clutch slave below.

My plan is to add diagonal bracing from the new upper brace to the lower crossmember, turning it into a "K" tipped over. I figured it's not providing much extra support if it's not joined to the lower member. I was thinking also about horizontal bracing to the frame rails, but I don't think that load direction is really relevant here. I'll figure that out once I start laying out the exhaust, to make sure I don't introduce additional redos.
 
Last edited:
Plugging away at all the odds and ends that need addressing while in test fit mode.

Removed the left front mount bracket & cut it back to clear subframe properly.

This is the slave clearance off the bulkhead

IMG-20190819-085412.jpg


Belt drive gap off frame

IMG-20190819-085538.jpg


Then I worked on the shift cable routing. Tried on either side of the subframe, didn't like the angle on the left. Too close to axle & up against the motor mount that side. I would have also had to drill the subframe rear vertical to allow the cables to pass through & use the stock shifter rod location, Darin is doing something along those lines. So, I have them on the right. Temporary ties for now. Sits pretty close to the oil pan at the front corner, but I put a heat sheath over them when I'm done.

IMG-20190819-141837.jpg


Drilled a new 1.5" hole in alignment with the cable routing

Thinking about using the shift rod opening for the heater hose/pipe that needs to go up on the left side.
IMG-20190819-141840.jpg


Pretty smooth arc routing up top

IMG-20190819-141900.jpg


Played around with brake junction and clutch junction points. Pretty sure I'm going to have them in this general layout. Not sure about right side brake line routing yet. Clutch junction bracket will be welded to under side of rail

IMG-20190819-141844.jpg


Then I fitted the torque mount & bracket, checked the drivetrain for level again, and welded it to hold until I drop the drivetrain at which point I will seam weld the bracket.

IMG-20190819-160334.jpg


Then I checked the fit of the rad hoses - MANY thanks to all the measurements and pics taken by Rodger & Darin, my fittings all came out as hoped for.

IMG-20190819-180519.jpg


IMG-20190819-180224.jpg


Have to cut back the angle section off the heater tube (right edge of pic), and get a longer heater hose


IMG-20190819-180210.jpg


Then I worked on the shifter. Positioned the support, and marked the location for cutting, drilled the corners and cut the inner pieces

IMG-20190819-162527.jpg


Typical stress cracks can be seen here - not sure why the console flexes the sheet metal there. The forward cracks (of the four) must be from the shifter.

IMG-20190819-162531.jpg


IMG-20190819-170618.jpg


IMG-20190819-170614.jpg


Cleaned up all the metal shavings & all set to weld tomorrow, then I can check the cable settings & make sure it shifts as it should

IMG-20190819-171519.jpg


Removed the throttle cable tube as part of the process - it has to be repositioned about 10" rearward, according to the notes. The 4-rivet bracket also interfered with the shift arm

IMG-20190819-173219.jpg


More tomorrow.
 
Last edited:
Ahh, nice. That's a great idea. One less piece to cut and fit - just bend it in!

Hey Darin - question for you - did you consider cutting back the firewall where the stock harness feed through lies? There is just so little space there for harness routing by the intake support/harness junction, I'm thinking it might make sense to remove that section & increase the bay space where the harness/ wiring junctions lie.

IMG-1106.jpg


IMG162030.jpg
 
Last edited:
Slow going today. All I got finished was the shifter install, and the heater feed.

My version of the base plate differs from Rodgers - it's not a complete circuit. This became an issue when welding as it distorts easily in the open section. I tried stitch welding it with the set screws in & vice grips in a number of locations (forgot to take pics of that), but the provided set screws seize in the frame from the heat. I then put the shifter on top to act as a heat soak, but that meant sacrificing a number of the set screws, which I had to drill out & retap. I made them all M5x.08 (not sure what the provided ones were, SAE, I think) except two that I had to go oversize (M6x1) where the bit went off the center of the snapped screw..

Anyway, finally got the frame welded in around 2pm, so I moved on to setting up the cables & check the adjustment

I will need to revisit the open section, perhaps adding a joining plate on the outside. The reason the frame is open is because the pivot bolt head would interfere. Also found that the heim has to be set at just the right angle or it will tend to jamb once reverse has been engaged, and not want to release.

IMG-20190820-174002.jpg


IMG-20190820-174006.jpg


IMG-20190820-140151.jpg



IMG-20190820-173931.jpg


Cable routing will be thus:

have to add a support bracket off the rear mount bracket to hold the cables off the crossmember / crossbrace
IMG-20190820-174840.jpg


I'll figure out a nice securing bracket for where the cables run along the subframe
IMG-20190820-174843.jpg


The main cable (gear select) was easy to setup. The problem for me came with the detent cable. I couldn't get it to enagage reverse unless I backed the sheath all the way out of the bracket the entire length of the threaded end

Shown halfway through in thise earlier pic:

IMG-20190802-145850.jpg


Since the cables are the same length and have the same relative offset in the shifter brackets and the trans bracket, this didn't make much sense. The only way I could get sufficient throw of the detent cable to engage reverse was to cut around 5/8-3/4" off the cable end at the trans, and shorten the heim at the detent arm by the same amount, to increase the pull. With that, I was able to secure the cable sheath in the bracket, with enough threads for the retaining nut to lock the cable. Also made sure there is just a little movement in each cable when the selector arms are jiggled, to make sure the gates were not being held out of or on the edge of proper alignment. The shifter gate feels very close - I hope it works in action as well as it feels now.

IMG-20190820-173926.jpg
 
Dropped the gas tank today, so I could address the throttle cable / bobbin setup. Solder has cracked around the right vent tube, clearly been seeping for some time. Not enthusiastic about resoldering a gas tank. I think the deal is to fill it with water to make sure no fuel vapors remain. Have to research that.

IMG-20190821-094431.jpg


With that out of the way, I routed the clutch & brake line/junction. Drilled along the lip & put bolts in from above to retain the junction and the clutch line

IMG-20190821-113041.jpg


Clutch flex line junction will be over here. I'll weld the original retainer bracket to the rail. Have to fix the rust here when I do the bracket weld ing.

IMG-20190821-113036-1.jpg


In the frame hole behind the tank, I found the bulk of the wadding that was missing from the front side of the tank. Would have a made a nasty fire when welding the swing arm mount if I hadn't checked

IMG-20190821-094504-1.jpg


Will add this bracket to hold the shift cables off the crossmember, and possibly bolt a heat shield to

IMG-20190821-113127.jpg


Shifter cables from above - detent cable was the one I had to shorten

IMG-20190821-152342.jpg


EDIT - comparing my shifter cable offset from gates to brackets with Rodger's....

The guide sleeve on his sits over the reverse lockout solenoid - mine is at least 2" rearward of that point....


... I can move the entire bracket forward at least 2", maybe more. That will move the cable arc away from the rear crossmember and make the bend in the cables softer. Not sure it's worth remaking the mount bracket again. I'll have to unbolt the carriage & play with it.

After that, I swapped out the slave cylinder for the original - but I didn't like the proximity of the banjo union to the bulkhead - was worse than the clearance I had with the revised version, so I swapped it back. Then I ran the throttle cable & sheathing to figure out routing/placement

The supplied cable parts don't fit the K-Tuned arm, so I have to figure the best way to address that. I'll probably look for a stainless version, since this will get rained on
IMG-20190821-152307.jpg


The bobbin is just too close to the bulkhead. I removed it & dismantled the TB, trying to figure out if I could rework it / flip the bobbin for more offset. After some deliberation I decided to just wallop the bulkhead.

IMG-20190821-152445.jpg


Had to also indent the gas tank a touch to get it to fit nicely

IMG-20190821-165612.jpg


IMG-20190821-165615.jpg


I'll spend a little time when the drivetrain is back out cleaning this up & getting the panel as smooth as possible

IMG-20190821-170440.jpg
 
Last edited:
Welding a gas tank. I have done several over the years. Remove the fuel sender cover and let the tank breath. I have used a vacuum cleaner on blow to vent the tank outside of the garage. If the tank is dry and vented for a day, you can weld it without issue. I then plug all the openings using duct tape and put .5PSI pressure on the tank and spray the welded area with Fantastic House Hold cleaner. It will bubble if there is a leak.

Impressive build, lots of head scratching. I thought I was the only one having issues.

Well done.

TonyK.

Grimsby Ontario Canada.
 
Back
Top