Need Input: Wheel Offset / Spacer Questions

I am assuming that I need to move the new wheel in by .5" (since they are zero offset) to achieve the same track as I have currently. So, I would need to order 1" spacers to replace the 1.5" I'm using now.

Does that sound like a reasonable calculation?

I believe what Doug said is not what you were asking and therefore incorrect in this case....unless I am the one that is misunderstanding your question.


Sorry Jeff.......your statement is NOT correct...

Hussein was very clear. He wanted to retain the SAME TRACK as he currently has. Of course "track" is defined as the distance from the centre of the tire tread on one side to the centre of the tire tread on the other side. If you dont believe me just google it. Thus of course changing to a wider wheel with the same offset will NOT affect the track !!!

Therefore..if Hussein wished to "achieve the same track as i currently have" - he would retain his current spacer. My statements were correct.....

Yes...of course....this would result in the tread of the tire being in exactly the same place as before. Of course the outer edge of the wheel itself - and the bead area of the tire - will now be 1/2" further outboard. Really just a visual thing and no change to tire/fender clearance.
 
like this :D
 

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Only 9" in back, fronts are same 8" as existing. Tires are the same

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Hey Hussein. Hope you know that what you are doing is " not quite right"...

A 205/50-15 tire should only be mounted on a 5.5" to 7.5" wide wheel. And a 225/45-15 tire should only be mounted on a 7" to 8.5" wheel.

"Stretching" them onto 8" and 9" wheels - like you have done - it outside the design parameters of the tires.

Just sayin.......
 
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Hey Hussein. Hope you know that what you are doing is " not quite right"...

A 205/50-15 tire should only be mounted on a 5.5" to 7.5" wide wheel. And a 225/45-15 tire should only be mounted on a 7" to 8.5" wheel.

"Stretching" them onto 8" and 9" wheels - like you have done - it outside the design parameters of the tires.

Just sayin.......

I've run them on the 8" wheels for the past couple years, since doing the Dallara body. ProbabIy 4K miles or so. I can't find a pic of the sidewall, I don't feel they were stretched. They handled very well.

The rears are now stretched by comparison. I'll try to get a side by side pic.
 
Just a warning about spacers. I'm sure Searpent makes better products than the (likely Chinese) ones I had. Absolutely make sure the seats to the 4x98mm bolt holes have enough material behind them. The set I had sheared the seats out like the pop-out covers on an electrical box. The bolts were still in place, but the wheel/tire just pulled away and got lodged in the wheel well. This was on my 124 Coupe, running 7.5 x 15 with 205/50-15 tires. The spacers were 25mm. I'll post picks of the sheared seats later, I still have them. Incidentally, they failed at about 65 miles of use, I took the car to work the day after the Best of France and Italy car show, which was my first outing with the spacers
 
Hey Hussein. Hope you know that what you are doing is " not quite right"...

A 205/50-15 tire should only be mounted on a 5.5" to 7.5" wide wheel. And a 225/45-15 tire should only be mounted on a 7" to 8.5" wheel.

"Stretching" them onto 8" and 9" wheels - like you have done - it outside the design parameters of the tires.

Just sayin.......

What are you talking about?

A little stretch never hurt anyone


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Just a warning about spacers. I'm sure Searpent makes better products than the (likely Chinese) ones I had. Absolutely make sure the seats to the 4x98mm bolt holes have enough material behind them. The set I had sheared the seats out like the pop-out covers on an electrical box. The bolts were still in place, but the wheel/tire just pulled away and got lodged in the wheel well. This was on my 124 Coupe, running 7.5 x 15 with 205/50-15 tires. The spacers were 25mm. I'll post picks of the sheared seats later, I still have them. Incidentally, they failed at about 65 miles of use, I took the car to work the day after the Best of France and Italy car show, which was my first outing with the spacers

OUCH!

The new ones I bought for the rear are also 1.5", and made in USA. I'll see if I can gauge the depth of the stud seat area, I have a vivid mental image of what you are saying with the pop-out cover reference !

I'll add some pics of my new & old fitment, just to bring this back to Fiat-based reality. The pics above make me nauseous :D
 
The first pictures of the silver Toyota have me concerned because he used silver duct tape to attach the wheel flares. This looks like something I would have done!

Apparently stretched rims are a "thing" and have no basis in function. I don't believe it has caught on in the US. Then again, maybe it's just for trailer queens that go to shows. Hard to believe a street car would pass safety inspection with wheels/tires like that.
 
Spacers or adapters under a certain width have a limited amount of material for the lug holes (to attach the spacer to the hub). Because there needs to be a hole deep enough for the head of the bolt to be recessed below the wheel mounting surface. Some come with reduced head height bolts, allowing for a shallower hole. Those will have more material under the bolt, and less prone to breaking. But obviously the quality of it makes a big difference.
 
I think the problem is the term track. If used correctly, then using the same spacers with 1" wider rims will (both with zero offset) will leave the "track" the same but increase overall width 1". IF you want the outside of the tires to remain in the same position retaliative to the fender then it's not track that is the concern. If location compared to the fender is the question, track must be narrowed 1" or 0.5" on either side of the car to prevent rubbing. Track will then be 1" narrower but total width will remain the same and each wheel will have a full inch of extra meat on the inside of the wheel well.
 
I think the problem is the term track. If used correctly, then using the same spacers with 1" wider rims will (both with zero offset) will leave the "track" the same but increase overall width 1". IF you want the outside of the tires to remain in the same position retaliative to the fender then it's not track that is the concern. If location compared to the fender is the question, track must be narrowed 1" or 0.5" on either side of the car to prevent rubbing. Track will then be 1" narrower but total width will remain the same and each wheel will have a full inch of extra meat on the inside of the wheel well.

Indeed. What I really meant was that the tire outer wall would stay as it was with the narrower wheels, to avoid any possible contact with the fender. I think that since the sidewall is now 'tapered' it won't actually be an issue, however I will have to confirm that & have the spacer narrowed if there is a potential issue.
 
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