RED X19

Over tightened belt which lead to faster death of tensioners bearing, that lead to what can be seen in picture :D

Belt was actually too short.
I measured with the thread length I need because in Punto this engine has power-steering pump.

I bought one that measured and ir was too short.

So I bought few cm longer one,

But it still was too short 🤷‍♂️🤦🏻‍♀️

But it was possible to put on in a way that I prefer not to tell 😂 also don’t remember exact sequence how it was done. Nothing dangerous
 
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Finding a correct belt length for a non-stock arrangement is difficult. There are a couple ways to measure for it but they don't seem to be very accurate.

Often it seems going from one size belt to the next closest one makes almost no difference, but other times it is a HUGE jump in size. To make things worse, different belt makers have different actual lengths for the same "size" belt. So it ends up being a trial and error process until you find the right one. Fortunately some stores will allow you to buy multiple sizes and you can return the ones that don't work. But it's still a pain to go through.

On top of all this, I've found many applications do not have much "adjustment" room for the belt. So you need to get one that is EXACTLY the right size; a tiny bit too short it won't go on, a tiny bit too long you can't tighten it enough.

I went through this on my AC equipped X1/9. And it was the stock set up, but NONE of the factory recommended sizes were correct (turns out that year of California smog equipped X with AC used a different belt arrangement than any others, and the factory recommendations were for those others). Even when I found a good size I had to buy one specific brand because the other brands were different. I also modified the adjustment parts to allow a little more movement for better tensioning, and it was still barely good.
 
-1C ambient
From parking place where IAT climbed to ~48C, was going on 100km/h and IAT dropped to 25C and on a very little uphill grow up to 27C. (Previously it was ~36C or more at that speed)

Will try to improve this little more.
If would have access to some water to air IC wouldn’t mind to compare them. Also test without bonnet would be interesting :D
 
If would have access to some water to air IC wouldn’t mind to compare them.
I'm of the opinion that a larger air to air intercooler will offer the same benefit as a water to air unit. But I respect that others may feel differently. The small size of the X's engine bay is what limits the size of any intercooler, and that may be where the water to air has a little advantage. However I was able to mount a air to air IC that is more than big enough by laying it flat over the transmission area. By "flat" I mean sort of like these:
ferrari-288-gto.jpg


I think the stock UT IC is just too small, especially when used in a mid mounted engine with less airflow. Even one roughly the same overall size but higher efficiency would make a big difference; there are aftermarket IC's that are thicker, flow better, and transfer more heat for the same size. But you should have a little room to go bigger.

Another thought is to add a electric fan directly onto the IC:
h22-power-fiat-x19-3.jpg
 
I wasn't able to find a pic of my intercooler mounted in the engine bay (it's out now for body and paint work). But here is someone else's (forgot who) that is similar to mine. I believe this example is a Audi factory IC. My IC is like this basic configuration (inlet and outlet facing same side), but mine's a aftermarket all aluminum unit that's larger than this one. However it gives the idea what I'm doing (except no air flow meter on mine):

cf4c527c14f50ed961d6e7c69f2b4ef5--fiat-x-italian-style.jpg
 
I'm of the opinion that a larger air to air intercooler will offer the same benefit as a water to air unit. But I respect that others may feel differently. The small size of the X's engine bay is what limits the size of any intercooler, and that may be where the water to air has a little advantage. However I was able to mount a air to air IC that is more than big enough by laying it flat over the transmission area. By "flat" I mean sort of like these:
View attachment 42828

I think the stock UT IC is just too small, especially when used in a mid mounted engine with less airflow. Even one roughly the same overall size but higher efficiency would make a big difference; there are aftermarket IC's that are thicker, flow better, and transfer more heat for the same size. But you should have a little room to go bigger.

Another thought is to add a electric fan directly onto the IC:
View attachment 42829
although the vtec is an H series this is the pic I have been using to debate going turbo instead of NA on my B. But it would require building a custom exhaust manifold to clear the rear window like this one does.

Odie
 
although the vtec is an H series this is the pic I have been using to debate going turbo instead of NA on my B. But it would require building a custom exhaust manifold to clear the rear window like this one does.

Odie
I may be remembering wrong, but isn't your fuel tank relocated to the frunk? If it is (or if you move it there), then you have the open space behind the driver where the original tank went. Would that allow a turbo to sit below, in that space - rather than on top? Naturally that will require the firewall to be cut open. And I don't know what options exist for turbo exhaust manifolds for your engine, so that may not help much anyway.

And now that I think about it, doesn't the "B" engine have the manifolds opposite from the "K" - as in intake in front and exhaust in rear? But I really don't know, I've never dealt with any Honda engine.
 
I may be remembering wrong, but isn't your fuel tank relocated to the frunk? If it is (or if you move it there), then you have the open space behind the driver where the original tank went. Would that allow a turbo to sit below, in that space - rather than on top? Naturally that will require the firewall to be cut open. And I don't know what options exist for turbo exhaust manifolds for your engine, so that may not help much anyway.

And now that I think about it, doesn't the "B" engine have the manifolds opposite from the "K" - as in intake in front and exhaust in rear? But I really don't know, I've never dealt with any Honda engine.
That was the plan to move it up. Then I had a fuel issue and needed a new tank. Stock was in my budget. Still might get one up front but still need a custom manifold for the turbo. And yes, h and b series run with the exhaust towards the front and intake in the back like the pic where the k is intake in the front exhaust in the rear.

Odie
 
h and b series run with the exhaust towards the front and intake in the back like the pic where the k is intake in the front exhaust in the rear
Ok, I had that backwards - thinking it was the other way around.
I guess if a custom manifold anyway is needed they it doesn't matter where the turbo gets located. The important thing is that you add one. :p
What's the odds that some sort of existing aftermarket turbo manifold for your engine can work here. I've seen ones that mount the turbo on top of the engie (for drag racing, etc) and other various places.
 
Maybe air/fuel ratio gauges need a "flames and pop/bangs" mixture setting....just to be used for car shows of course.
 
Unfortunately rarely I see anyone sharing costs of the builds. These costs are only about 1.6 turbo build. Not adding anything else that I would need anyway.

To clarify things and help others to figure out what they really want.

1k ECU+lambda

2k electricians work+ parts he has installed (normally I guess it costs x2 here, also it includes all new
wiring for car)

0.35k Fine tuning

0.6k Punto spare car
0.5k Uno Turbo spare car (these both I earned back to nearly zero by selling parts)

~3350€ in total
Is it cheap or not it’s up to You.
(Avarage wage for people with brains here is ~ 1.5k per month )

Fine tuning is planned on next Thursday.
 
I can't beat that, but I am not far away.
You have spent where I didn’t that I know from memory:
Air to water intercooler, that’s I guess ~250€
Turbo from volvo 150 € 🤷‍♂️

Also I didn’t count in my muffler, but it would be needed for any engine and was definitely under 80€ in total.

This pricelist is not to win some other my imaginary contest :D

Just to let know.

And it is twice as much that I have been told it will cost. But it was 3 years ago, inflation :D

If I would knew it in the beginning, maybe mazda V6 would happen 🤷‍♂️
But that again would cost:
•engine for free or 200
•axles 300
•brake test 500 (testing limits on track for street legal approval)
•new brakes after test 160
•drawings for approval fee 200
•some mysterious bits 500
1860€ in total (if first brake test would be failed 😂 .... then price list would start to grow in enormous speed)
 
In a way it is fortunate, but also unfortunate that in most areas we do not have to pay for inspections or approval tests to make such projects. Fortunate because it is less costly, but unfortunate because a lot of unsafe vehicles surround me on the roads...maybe even mine. o_O

For my turbo project the total costs are much lower. Most of the primary components are stock, late model X1/9 with FI 1500 original drivetrain. So the costs were mostly for a turbo and exhaust manifold (I bought used), ECU (MegaSquirt $300 USD), intercooler/pipes/BOV ($100 USD), self built exhaust and air intake ($50 USD), wideband O2 ($75 USD), and various sensors (mostly inexpensive items from common vehicles). Under $1000 USD (about 800 E) total - not including dyno tuning (undetermined so far). I'll tally more exact expenderatures once everything is finally done.

But one of my primary goals has been to see how affordable I could do it, so I have keep everything as economical as possible. That means not everything is top name brand or best quality. Also another goal was to keep it conservative in terms of performance (low boost) so that the stock engine can survive. If I wanted to go for more performance (higher boost) the cost would go up; better pistons and valves, better turbo, etc. Furthermore, on top of this could be additional costs to rebuild the engine if needed, or to add more accessories, or buying all new components, etc. Therefore it could go double that, even triple if you cannot do all of the work yourself (i.e. pay for labor). It really all depends on what you have to work with and what decisions you make when planning the project.
 
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