wheel alignment/tracking

RDS

True Classic
UK car so please remember this is a right hand drive car!

My x1/9 has always had the steering wheel not centred correctly (the wheel is rotated to the right about 20 degrees in the straight ahead position). This may be the result of wheel alignment that is way off. However after I dropped the column a little to fit the new ignition switch and took it for a drive, the pull to the left, ie into the kerb, was quite severe.

Questions:
1 Does the way that the column is bolted back up after being lowered, affect the position of the rack so that the pull to the left is exacerbated?

2 Does anyone have the UK wheel alignment specs to take to a decent wheel alignment garage?

3 Are the rear wheels also aligned/adjustable?

4 Is my assumption correct that using tyre/exhaust outlets what offer wheel alignment, are nevertheless not worth bothering with...?

Cheers
RDS
 
Dropping the steering column should have no effect on the wheel alignment.
The steering wheel not centred could be from wheel alignment or from being removed and not put back on the splines in the correct position.
The rear wheels should be aligned for toe in at the same time as the fronts.
There is no adjustment for camber front or rear, apart from slotting the top mounting holes or fitting eccentric camber bolts.
Factory alignment specs for Australian 1978 X1/9, 2 people + 20 kg of luggage.
Front - camber -1 deg +/- 20', caster 7 deg +/- 30', toe in 2 to 4 mm, meas at rim.
Rear - camber -2 deg +/- 20', toe in 4 to 6mm, meas at rim.
 
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Hello Greg thanks for the info. I'll take the specs with me to the Tyre supplier/wheel alignment shop.
 
Interesting thank you Hasbro.

Has anyone fitted these to standard suspension set up car and found improvement?

Might be worth fitting before going down to the wheel alignment workshop.
 
If your car has ever been hit or otherwise tweaked the camber can be off. For that matter some cars may have left the factory with some slight tweaks. Having the adjustment option will allow correction for it. Or you may want to change the camber setting a little from the original specs, depending on your driving style, etc. However if everything is straight and you want to keep the original specs, then they won't be needed. Another option is to slot the mounting holes in the lower strut tabs. That also allows for camber adjustment. A good alignment shop (not a tire store) can do that if needed.
 
Yes that is indeed a possibility given that I am not the first owner Jeff. I will have to find a good alignment shop nearby; the one I use for other vehicles is jut too far away for this job. Thanks for the advice; it is not being used for track purposes but I prefer neutral, straight-ahead running, not gentle steering into the kerb. I hope those Australian specs above allow for that.
 
Computerised modern alignment kit will have the x1/9 parameters already, a good workshop will be able to advise on tweaks to the standard setup for best handling.
 
thanks NEG just called a load of local shops; some will only work on the front so I have discounted those. Others do not have laser alignment capability but have a "computer".... Thoughts?

Finding what is a "good " shop will only be apparent after payment it seems.

I'll ease the adjusters a few days before.
 
As the rear is adjustable on the X it needs to be done first so you can get accurate alignment up front, if they can’t do that then keep looking! May be worth a drive to find somebody who knows what they are doing…
 
Sounds reasonable but you know these type of places; they will want to do the easy stuff first and quickly, then charge, then refuse to do the harder, rear alignment. I don't have any reference books on this aspect of mechanics, can you direct me to any authority on the order of adjustment (rear to front) please, the Workshop Manual is silent on that aspect and I'd like to take something along with me. I called all the alignment shops with a decent radius none filled me with confidence.
 
Most regular/reputable alignment shops - meaning ones that just do automotive alignments and nothing else - can do it. You will agree on and pay for a "four wheel alignment" before they begin, and that's what you will get. They should know the specs and how to achieve it, but you might want to take the specs with you just in case - these are older, rarer cars. But you won't need to take any books to show them how it's done. Modern alignment equipment makes the process easy and quick, so generally look for a shop with decent equipment. However that being said, my alignment guy has been doing it (and only it) by hand for 40-50 years and doesn't need the modern equipment to get things spot on. But those old school shops/technicians are few and far between any more. The key is looking for a real alignment shop, not a service facility of any kind.
 
That's right in an ideal world Jeff but the calls today were very disappointing which maybe makes me think I have to cast my net further. Two shops were adamant on the telephone that only the fronts needed doing. One did say that he'd put the car on the ramp and have a look first before charging.......except that the feedback reviews indicated otherwise! Another said that the rear adjusters would likely be rusted solid with no chance of adjustment so no point trying. I don't want to show or even tell them how its done of course - it is their job after all, but I need to be able to point to correct practice when I feel that the wool is being pulled over my eyes.
 
Just like @Hasbro suggests I went to a race shop after I had my coil overs mounted. At my shop they are specialized on light weight cars and the shop owner is racing a Miata himself. They spent several hours on the car and did an excellent job. My car is aligned for track but of course they could have aligned it for the street as wełl.
Look for alignment shops that are working with Miata. The X is very similar to Miata in this matter.
 
It’s true the rear adjustment can rust up pretty good, soak both ends on each link with penetrating oil for a week before you go. Where are you located?
 
The guys who did mine (Blackboots, Chesham) described it to me something like this; (don’t quote me!) there’s no point in adjusting the front if the rear wheels are pointing in the wrong direction, they need to be adjusted first for toe and camber to create a straight line down the centre of the car. With that done the alignment kit uses this line as reference to set the front toe along with camber and caster. If I recall correctly they had to tweak the settings as they interact to a certain degree.
 
Dropping the steering column should have no effect on the wheel alignment.
The steering wheel not centred could be from wheel alignment or from being removed and not put back on the splines in the correct position.
The rear wheels should be aligned for toe in at the same time as the fronts.
There is no adjustment for camber front or rear, apart from slotting the top mounting holes or fitting eccentric camber bolts.
Factory alignment specs for Australian 1978 X1/9, 2 people + 20 kg of luggage.
Front - camber -1 deg +/- 20', caster 7 deg +/- 30', toe in 2 to 4 mm, meas at rim.
Rear - camber -2 deg +/- 20', toe in 4 to 6mm, meas at rim.

All very true and good advise !!!!

However......the alignment specs for your X1/9 ( I assume UK spec RHD 1987 ? ) may well be different than Greg listed. Below is a pic ( hope you can read it okay ) from my official Fiat shop manual of the alignment specs for a North American spec '79-'82 X1/9 ). Note some differences. As your '87 UK X may well be different than either spec....Hopefully one of our UK members has a shop manual that lists the specs for your X. Or likely the alignment shop still has the specs in their alignment machine - if they dont you will have to provide...

x19 alignment specs 002.JPG


As others have said here...yes you should get a 4 wheel alignment. That is quite common these days as most modern cars have independent rear suspension and need all 4 wheels to be properly aligned. I would think that most alignment shops have the equipment to do that over there. So that should not be a problem at all. And the X1/9 has an easy rear toe adjustment built in - just like the front of most cars. But yes...it is possible the adjusters are all seized up...they certainly were on my X. See my post here:
So the shop that warned you of that possibility had a valid point.......yours may well be okay...or not....

So..any shop with a 4 wheel alignment machine should able to easily set the toe-in front and rear. But yes...you are likely best to find a shop that specializes in alignments...if that is all they do all day they are more likely to be good at it !!!

And yes.....there is NO adjustment provision for camber on an X1/9 from the factory. Fiat say that as long as it within the spec range it is "okay". If not...something is likely bent or worn.

But yes....there are now special "camber bolts" available ( like referenced above ) that indeed allow the shop to adjust the camber to dial it in perfectly. You might need them...or you might not. If you are picky and want a perfect alignment...you will. You may well end up only needing them on 2 or three wheels. Problem is...you wont know if they are needed until they are halfway through the alignment process.

Any decent shop will be familiar with using them - no problem there. And an alignment shop will usually have them in stock for most cars as they are kinda universal. Problem might be that the X1/9 uses a not common size - 10mm. Over here that size is not common at all - only used on Fiats - but luckily on the new 500 - and some old Suzukis. Over there might well be more common as you guys have lots more small cars.

If I were you....I would find a decent alignment shop and book you car in. Ask them if they stock 10mm camber bolts in case they are needed. If they dont...get some and bring them with you. If they ask "what is a camber bolt ? "......find another shop !!!

Caster is adjusted by adding/subtracting shim washers. Just ordinary washers will do.

At the end of the day......an X1/9 is aligned like just about any other car. Any decent shop can do it easily. Aside from the possibility of needing some 10mm camber bolts...no special tools or special bits or special knowledge required. But on the other hand...you can understand a shop's reluctance to work on a rusty 35 year old Fiat where everything they go to touch is all seized up. Time is money to them and rightly so...

And...hopefully this goes without saying...but if all your ball joints/bushings/tie rods/strut/rack are not in good condition...an alignment is rather pointless......
 
I would call a race shop. Either they will do it or refer you to a reputable shop.
Hello Hasbro that is a good idea: there is a track not too far away and i think there are support industries all around it. I will make further enquiry.
 
The guys who did mine (Blackboots, Chesham) described it to me something like this; (don’t quote me!) there’s no point in adjusting the front if the rear wheels are pointing in the wrong direction, they need to be adjusted first for toe and camber to create a straight line down the centre of the car. With that done the alignment kit uses this line as reference to set the front toe along with camber and caster. If I recall correctly they had to tweak the settings as they interact to a certain degree.
Hello Neg yes Blackboots is exactly where I take my sensible vehicle: Tony Bone there is a trusted technician. The x1/9 is over in Kent and I do not fancy the struggle through or around London hence I might see what is available near Brands Hatch.
 
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