What did you do to your X1/9 today ?

recommended service interval is 60,000km for old style timing belts like ours, assuming it's clean and dry, - not oil soaked. If the car does little milage then every 5 to 6 years would be prudent. The sohc would be one of the simpler engines to replace a timing belt on.

60k km would have a built in safety factor of maybe 100%, as I've seen them go 100k km without issues... the most load on the belt teeth is actually on start up, and that's when an old belt usually strips teeth off from around the crank pulley.

More modern cars (like my diesel Punto) have a service interval of 160,000km or ten years.

SteveC
So I guess a 10 year old belt with zero mileage on it should be changed?
 
So I guess a 10 year old belt with zero mileage on it should be changed?
well I guess it depends... if it's been exposed to extreme temperatures or UV light, then yes... but if it's in a dry dark garage, then it's like the belt being inside a box on the shelf for 10 years, which I don't see as an issue.

SteveC
 
Replaced the lower engine mount this weekend. A much bigger pain in the rear then I would have thought. It looked very straightforward just 7 bolts and nuts easy on and off, I figured an hour. The only problem was aligning the two bolts that hold the band around the rubber. It is difficult to align the holes so the bolts thread in straight without cross threading. I had to use a C clamp to press the mount in place because the bolts will not reach the nuts welded to the frame. Had to align the holes in the mount with the nuts on the frame with shims till it was aligned perfectly then had to start the bolts by hand then used teh wrench. It took a dozen tries to get it right.

Be patient and watch the angle the bolt and how it goes in without the mount in place. Also use an x-actor blade to clean up any excess rubber in the bolt hole on the mount, this sounds minor but was helpful.

Old mount, interesting that the opening are like the 128 mounts.
IMG_5371 (002).jpg


New mount for a 1500 late models, notice holes are more to the side making more Rubber to support the car.
IMG_5365 (002).jpg


Had to obtain a bracket that would hold the exhaust system like the older model bracket. Kudos to rx1900 for having this arm available for sale. Fit was excellent and great quality. The original X1/9 mount is no longer available
1667184716148.jpeg


I replaced this because I was hearing occasional rhythmic bolt clunking which I believe was caused by a weak lower mount.
 
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Its pretty simple all you do is simply tell us what you've done to your X1/9 during the current day or in the late evening prior. It can be anything from a fun drive, wash/wax, to engine rebuilding etc.. Pics and video are always welcome for incrimination.. :eek:mg:.. I mean entertainment purposes.
Well today l have possibly a x19 1500 engine to go in a 128 Two door sedan and will run twin Dellortos side draft tried to measure the cam lobe but it was a bit tricky thankyou for accepting me from Austalia great bunch of people on this forum🤓🥂🤷🏻‍♂️🇮🇹💥
 
Well today l have possibly a x19 1500 engine to go in a 128 Two door sedan and will run twin Dellortos side draft tried to measure the cam lobe but it was a bit tricky
If it's an Australian spec x19 1500 engine it will have engine code 138AS.023 before the stamped in engine number on the rear face of the block near/below the thermostat housing.

If it's an Australian spec engine it will not have the 24/68 64/28 with 9.85/9.9 lift cam, it will have a 10/54 54/10 and 9.2mm lift as our 1500 X19's are rated to just 80hp ... that's what the .023 suffix means

SteveC
 
If it's an Australian spec x19 1500 engine it will have engine code 138AS.023 before the stamped in engine number on the rear face of the block near/below the thermostat housing.

If it's an Australian spec engine it will not have the 24/68 64/28 with 9.85/9.9 lift cam, it will have a 10/54 54/10 and 9.2mm lift as our 1500 X19's are rated to just 80hp ... that's what the .023 suffix means

SteveC
Thanks Steve on the Block it has 138.2FIAT above it 4469772 the head numbers read 138AE2A0000 4445312 thankyou for you advice l have been reading your stuff amazing 🤷🏻‍♂️🥂also my exhaust manifold is 4322467 cheers any advice would be appreciated Grazie 🤷🏻‍♂️🤓🥂🇮🇹💥
 
Thanks Steve on the Block it has 138.2FIAT above it 4469772 the head numbers read 138AE2A0000 4445312

that's the cast in raised numbers on the side of the block below the manifolds, not what you want. The engine code is a STAMPED in number on the rear surface of the block, on the manifold side, below where the thermostat mounts to the head. That cast in head number is a 1500 type though, with passive air injection reed valve... so you'll need to use the correct thermostat gasket or you'll fill the engine with coolant. It wont have M12 fasteners though, that list isnt quite right, it will have M10 (17mm head) bolts

if you're swapping this into an 1100 4 speed sedan you will be needing the rear tinware from a 1300 engine, the 1100 one isn't going to fit as it's flat across the rear of the block on an 1100, whereas the 1300 / 1500 have a bolted on water jacket plate... this will also interfere with the standard transmission bellhousing, and this will need a notch cut out of it for clearance.

The 1500 rear tinware wont suit your transmission / starter motor, as the 1500 starter mounts slightly differently.

SteveC
 
that's the cast in raised numbers on the side of the block below the manifolds, not what you want. The engine code is a STAMPED in number on the rear surface of the block, on the manifold side, below where the thermostat mounts to the head. That cast in head number is a 1500 type though, with passive air injection reed valve... so you'll need to use the correct thermostat gasket or you'll fill the engine with coolant. It wont have M12 fasteners though, that list isnt quite right, it will have M10 (17mm head) bolts

if you're swapping this into an 1100 4 speed sedan you will be needing the rear tinware from a 1300 engine, the 1100 one isn't going to fit as it's flat across the rear of the block on an 1100, whereas the 1300 / 1500 have a bolted on water jacket plate... this will also interfere with the standard transmission bellhousing, and this will need a notch cut out of it for clearance.

The 1500 rear tinware wont suit your transmission / starter motor, as the 1500 starter mounts slightly differently.

SteveC
Thanks is this a better option
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No, that's an early 1300 head... it has a different (less efficient) early type combustion chamber shape compared to the 1500 head, the 4445312 (for Australia (and I think sweden / switzerland) looks like this:

cylinder head sohc 019.jpg


it also has a smaller exhaust valve (30.5 compared to 33.4) and smaller intake and exhaust seat throats ... and smaller ports...

the 1500 head you have flows well (for a stock head) you should just remove the reed valve and plug the hole, and make sure you use the correct gasket on the thermostat housing to make sure water/coolant doesn't get into the air injection ports and fill the engine with coolant (a common trap for young players)

SteveC
 
No, that's an early 1300 head... it has a different (less efficient) early type combustion chamber shape compared to the 1500 head, the 4445312 (for Australia (and I think sweden / switzerland) looks like this:

View attachment 67535

it also has a smaller exhaust valve (30.5 compared to 33.4) and smaller intake and exhaust seat throats ... and smaller ports...

the 1500 head you have flows well (for a stock head) you should just remove the reed valve and plug the hole, and make sure you use the correct gasket on the thermostat housing to make sure water/coolant doesn't get into the air injection ports and fill the engine with coolant (a common trap for young players)

SteveC
Is it worth me pursuing this engine or Do l just put a 1300 128 coupe motor in it l do love the ldea of a 1500. With twin carbs though sorry about the milion questions l will buy you a Pizza when you come to Melbourne and Vino as well also l found those numbers you were right 138AS023 4243835 grazie 🥂🤓🇮🇹
 
1500 compared to 1300, the difference in torque is like night and day... so yes I think you should pursue the 1500.

it also lends itself better to further modifications down the track as it's easier / cheaper to build some static compression into a 1500 than it is a 1300. The 1500 has forged conrods, the 1300's rods are cast and don't handle abuse (prolonged high revs) as well...

BUT (there is always a but) the 128 chassis doesn't like loads of extra torque (combined with sticky tyres and/or rough roads)

it will crack due to the bodywork flexing around the area where the front chassis rail enters the firewall area - basically the back corners of the engine bay is where you'll see cracks first appear... also beware the usual LHF corner issues (under the battery) for corrosion due to acid spillage / fumes...

SteveC
 
1500 compared to 1300, the difference in torque is like night and day... so yes I think you should pursue the 1500.

it also lends itself better to further modifications down the track as it's easier / cheaper to build some static compression into a 1500 than it is a 1300. The 1500 has forged conrods, the 1300's rods are cast and don't handle abuse (prolonged high revs) as well...

BUT (there is always a but) the 128 chassis doesn't like loads of extra torque (combined with sticky tyres and/or rough roads)

it will crack due to the bodywork flexing around the area where the front chassis rail enters the firewall area - basically the back corners of the engine bay is where you'll see cracks first appear... also beware the usual LHF corner issues (under the battery) for corrosion due to acid spillage / fumes...

SteveC
 
Yep l can see that already l can weld so l intend to reinforce the whole front end with some fabrication thankyou for you help l appreciate your help 👍
 
If you can weld / have a MIG, and don't mind a little fabrication, then reinforcing the front chassis is a good move while the engine is out... every 128 I've owned I have done this to - my first one when I was about 16 - but I'll admit I drive my 128's pretty hard, and possibly have had a bit more engine horsepower than most people as well.

Basically you need to plate the chassis rails and go around the corner onto the firewall. I encircle the engine bay with a plating reinforcement as the front transverse chassis rail (where the engine support crossmember bolts to) will also fatigue crack and want to tear the angled bracket that the crossmember bolts to out of the car. While you're at it add some doublers (like the X19 "big foot" reinforcement plates) to the tops of the strut towers as those tend to bow upwards and crack around the bolt holes too.

I got my first 128 when I was about 15, and I've always had at least one ... I'm 57 now so that's 40 plus years of continuous 128 ownership - plus I did my apprenticeship at a Fiat dealership and worked on them as nearly new cars... so I can definitely say I've BTDT on a 128.

you should start a build thread in the 128 section of the forum, as information gets lost in this thread as it's 245 pages long...

SteveC
 
If you can weld / have a MIG, and don't mind a little fabrication, then reinforcing the front chassis is a good move while the engine is out... every 128 I've owned I have done this to - my first one when I was about 16 - but I'll admit I drive my 128's pretty hard, and possibly have had a bit more engine horsepower than most people as well.

Basically you need to plate the chassis rails and go around the corner onto the firewall. I encircle the engine bay with a plating reinforcement as the front transverse chassis rail (where the engine support crossmember bolts to) will also fatigue crack and want to tear the angled bracket that the crossmember bolts to out of the car. While you're at it add some doublers (like the X19 "big foot" reinforcement plates) to the tops of the strut towers as those tend to bow upwards and crack around the bolt holes too.

I got my first 128 when I was about 15, and I've always had at least one ... I'm 57 now so that's 40 plus years of continuous 128 ownership - plus I did my apprenticeship at a Fiat dealership and worked on them as nearly new cars... so I can definitely say I've BTDT on a 128.

you should start a build thread in the 128 section of the forum, as information gets lost in this thread as it's 245 pages long...

SteveC
Hey we are the same age l also have a 4 door and a Fiat Spider as well l find the 128 mob fairly dormant in Victoria so l will start a new thread instead of bombarding the great X 19 people always very helpful
 
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