new '82 X owner (after 30 years without) general questions

[kmead]

Assume you're talking about the 15,17,18,19 parts ("wavy washer")? If so yes these are on the way.
Excellent post, thanks for sharing!

I'm sure everyone here has already experienced it, but today I learned how awesome MWB is.
Order arrived very quickly, and SUPER nicely packaged. Even included a vintage Bertone brochure as a surprise gift!
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Front trunk seal fit perfectly with a little trimming of length and looks SO much better than the oversprayed original.
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Stock steering wheel is in very good shape but the aged rubber grip is pretty squishy so won't bother swapping out the Momo, will just be wall art.

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Found a local blasting place this morning that can do my wheels and intake plenum for $200 so will drop them off in 2 weeks since it's right around the corner from the seat upholstery place.
ALMOST expensive enough to buy my own little blast cabinet... but have no spare garage space

Will do a bunch of maintenance while it's up on blocks and without intake plenum for ~2 weeks: R&R brake hoses and pads then bleed system, air filter (repaint housing), maybe fuel lines, replace dogbone.
Anything else you'd check/replace while the plenum is off?

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You should have them vapor blast the plenum not sand blast. Sand will deeply etch the aluminum, vapor blast will give you a lovely not polished but shiny and easy to clean surface.

 

[Bjorn Nilson]

Anything else you'd check/replace while the plenum is off?

I would check injector/fuel rail hoses and replace them if they are brittle or showing signs of cracks. Make sure to use hoses in correct dimension and that they are E85 approved.

 

[Nurburgringer]

I would check injector/fuel rail hoses and replace them if they are brittle or showing signs of cracks. Make sure to use hoses in correct dimension and that they are E85 approved.

Seems like 7.9mm line is most commonly used, really cheap for a couple feet: https://www.midwest-bayless.com/Fia...rtone-x19-124-131-lancia-beta-strada-new.aspx

wondering what's so special about this kit to command $73. Nice new hose clamps sure, but is that one fabric-braded line some kind of unobtainium thing? Will ask Matt also.
https://www.midwest-bayless.com/Fia...el-hose-kit-fiat-bertone-x19-1980-88-new.aspx

Wouldn't hurt to throw in a new fuel filter. One in there is probably original.

 

[Nurburgringer]

You should have them vapor blast the plenum not sand blast. Sand will deeply etch the aluminum, vapor blast will give you a lovely not polished but shiny and easy to clean surface.

I'll ask about that, but when I did my 308 parts about 13 years ago they came out quite good with aluminum oxide blasting.
Cam covers were wrinkle-red powder coated, rest was rattle-can painted with hi temp clear (after hand-painting the red lettering on intake).


Ready to plug back in

 

[Cratecruncher]

Fuel line has gotten really expensive the last few years even for low pressure stuff. Ethanol attacks normal rubber so the manufacturers had to come up with new formulations. I figured out how much length I needed and just bought hose from Matt by the foot. I bought nice fuel injection style hose clamps at NAPA. You can save $30 buying it a la carte but it is convenient buying a kit that's ready to go.

When removing the old hoses they can be really difficult to get off the barbs. Don't be tempted to quickly slice them off with a utility knife or Xacto. Even a small cut into the metal will cause them to weep at full pressure. If you use a blade just go really slow and tear the last bit before you cut into metal.

 

[Nurburgringer]

Fuel line

great tips!
Think I'll go the easy route and just order the MWB kit. Seems like I'll need additional clamps so asked Matt how many to add to the cart.

What are yall using for brake fluid these days? I know it's probably like tires with many opinions... but given I have no idea what's in there now and the cap says "DOT 4" (smaller reservoir which I believe is clutch fluid says DOT 3), what DOT # would you go for?
Probably can't go wrong with recommended DOT 4 but I know there has been improvements in the last 40 years...
thanks!
At one point I had a Motive pressure bleeder but think I gave it to a buddy. Have to ask him if he still has it so I can borrow it back.

 

[Bjorn Nilson]

On track I've learnt that a fluid with a high boiling temperature is necessary. Of course it works well under normal conditions as well. Motul 700 is a big improvement compared to standard DOT3 fluids .

 

[kmead]

great tips!
Think I'll go the easy route and just order the MWB kit. Seems like I'll need additional clamps so asked Matt how many to add to the cart.

What are yall using for brake fluid these days? I know it's probably like tires with many opinions... but given I have no idea what's in there now and the cap says "DOT 4" (smaller reservoir which I believe is clutch fluid says DOT 3), what DOT # would you go for?
Probably can't go wrong with recommended DOT 4 but I know there has been improvements in the last 40 years...
thanks!
At one point I had a Motive pressure bleeder but think I gave it to a buddy. Have to ask him if he still has it so I can borrow it back.

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I use DOT4 Valvoline Syntec synthetic brake fluid on all my cars now. So far so good. Always used to use Castrol LM, the Valvoline seems to stay clear longer in similar conditions.

 

[ralphedel]

I've been running 185/60R13 for a long time and I think that's a very good option for a X1/9 with 5.5 or 6" wide rims. But performance is much better on a 6" rim on track and twisty roads.

Now on to a question (sorry if stealing the thread). I just bought Cromodora CD66 7" rims. 225/45 R13 (any brand) would be perfect on these, but unfortunately very expensive. Therefore I am thinking about having Nankang NS-2 195/60R13 or Nankang Sportnex NS-2. But I see no difference between them except the price. Anyone here that know the difference?

You have a very nice looking car Bjorn. Might you be able to post some hi-res photos? I'd like to see more details of what you've done. Any info about the turbo installation? Many thanks.

 

[MikeHynes]

On the topic of brake fluid, some have better resistance to boiling than others. But those fluids tend to be more expensive. If you're planning to really use your brakes hard (as in racing - hard), you need that extra resistance to boiling. If you're not going to be hammering your brakes - all the time - you probably don't need really expensive brake fluid. Instead focus on keeping your brake fluid fresh by changing it out regularly.

IMHO brakes are one area that NEEDS regular attention on Xs. I think you'll have a more enjoyable experience with your X if you plan on, at minimum, annual brake bleeding, caliper cleaning, and wedge lubrication. Who knows, changing the fluid often may even help your brake master cylinder live longer?

BTW - Bleed the clutch fluid at the same time too.

 

[ralphedel]

good stuff!
What do you mean by "unbroken seal"? Seal between the clear glass/plexi and instrument housing? Why take a pic?
Thanks for the link to the model page.

The Momo wheel is close to stock diameter ~340mm, do you mean the grip diameter is huge? Yeah it is fairly chunky but I've got big hands so doesn't bother me. Shimming the rear 2 shaft bracket bolts ~1/4" raised the wheel enough so my right hand now clears my thigh on right turns. Still not nearly as horizontal as the (stock Momo) wheel in my old 308!
I did order a stock X wheel from MWB, to hang it on the wall next to stock CRX wheel (vintage Momo in that too), an E-Type wheel from one my dad restored in the 70s, and an old, blue Momo Monte Carlo I had in my 1st CRX back in the day.
In the mid 90's I made and sold Momo adaptors for gen 1 Taurus SHOs, so you can say I'm a bit of a Momo wheel fan

Good advice on the fuel lines, will check them out. Did all the ones on my 308, including the big hoses connecting the two gas tanks...

Have a set of rubber brakes lines on the way from MWB. Also new pads.

Car did great on the 220mile drive from SA to Houston but yes there are a number of things I do need to check/update/improve!
Really happy with the car overall. The paint job is only a step or two above a higher end Maaco job but at least there's no orange peel. And considering the recent, crusty yellow '82 that didn't meet reserve(!) at $6500, which was apparently painted with a roller, feel like I got a good enough deal at $8.6k (plus $400 to BaT).
Like my CRX it's one of the ever dwindling stock, largely original, almost entirely rust-free examples around.
Anyway enough defending my impulse buy. Time to take it for a spin around the hood
salud!

In regards to flexible brake lines, I used SS braided covered lines when I restored my 1961 E-Type roadster in the late 70s because they supposedly firm up the pedal. I never drove it with stock lines so I don't know the difference the SS covered ones made but since racers use them, that might be something worth looking into and spending a few extra $$$ on.

 

[Nurburgringer]

Fuel line has gotten really expensive the last few years even for low pressure stuff. Ethanol attacks normal rubber so the manufacturers had to come up with new formulations. I figured out how much length I needed and just bought hose from Matt by the foot. I bought nice fuel injection style hose clamps at NAPA.

Did you replace the "push lock" connectors in fuel injector lines with hose clamps?
Mind snapping a pic of the hose clamps you used?

Matt at MWB helpfully suggested also doing the injector O-rings, and why not dress things up with shiny new injector brackets and bolts for a few more bucks

Behind the wheels doesn't look bad, except for sloppy taping by painter. For $3.5k I'd have given them some hell about that.
Lines and calipers (and shocks) obviously not 40 years old.
Didn't snap a pic, and didn't see a receipt in the folder, but steering rack is very shiny so that also must have been done at some point.
Nothing wobbly in the front suspension.

Will replace rubber brake lines anyway, question is if I should splurge on new rotors at $25 each when these are BARELY grooved just crusty looking...

Ralph (my dad, who was the first to spot the '79 X back in '87 sitting outside, for sale, a local NJ garage )
This looks to be Bjorn's car. Very nice indeed!

 

[Bjorn Nilson]

You have a very nice looking car Bjorn. Might you be able to post some hi-res photos? I'd like to see more details of what you've done. Any info about the turbo installation? Many thanks.

Thanks, I'm glad you like her. I didn't create a build thread but you can read most of the the Turbo stuff in the "Turbo systems for the X1/9" thread. You've already found the videos on YouTube. Lots of pictures in this link.

The Bertone X19 Project

Album

1drv.ms

 

[dllubin]

Thanks, I'm glad you like her. I didn't create a build thread but you can read most of the the Turbo stuff in the "Turbo systems for the X1/9" thread. You've already found the videos on YouTube. Lots of pictures in this link.

The Bertone X19 Project

Album

1drv.ms

Great photos, superb looking vehicle!

 

[Cratecruncher]

Did you replace the "push lock" connectors in fuel injector lines with hose clamps?
Mind snapping a pic of the hose clamps you used?
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Will replace rubber brake lines anyway, question is if I should splurge on new rotors at $25 each when these are BARELY grooved just crusty looking...

I reused the push lock connectors. If you have true 7.9mm hoses it's fine. But there are some regular fuel hose fittings that require clamps(I forget how many). Those I replaced with 5/16" clamps like the one pictured:

Rotors need replacing if they are too thin (<9mm) from wear or warped from driving through standing water. Otherwise you can just scuff them with a sanding disk and you should be good to go. BTW, Houston is so low rainstorms frequently result in temporary street flooding. Don't be tempted! Go around or wait till it drains away. Even if your rotors are cold enough to survive, the water will get into every crack and crevice and stay wet for weeks leading to some serious unfixable corrosion.

 

[Nurburgringer]

MWB Matt says 18 clamps if you replace all, incl the push locks so must be 10 req'd if re-using them.
She's going to be a fair weather car only, even had planned on removing wipers but these are low profile so don't stick up as high as some I've seen.
You don't need to tell me about Houston... our neighborhood is one of the highest points in Harris County at ~200' ASL. Parts of downtown are below SL. The X1/9 will most definitely be staying warm and dry in the garage.

My accomplishment today was installing retractable wheels on a nice Harbor Freight workbench, so there is now space for the CRX, X1/9 and i3. Will shift the CRX over a few feet once I get the new fuel pump in.
Pulling one car out will give me back my full workshop area.

 

[kmead]

MWB Matt says 18 clamps if you replace all, incl the push locks so must be 10 req'd if re-using them.
She's going to be a fair weather car only, even had planned on removing wipers but these are low profile so don't stick up as high as some I've seen.
You don't need to tell me about Houston... our neighborhood is one of the highest points in Harris County at ~200' ASL. Parts of downtown are below SL. The X1/9 will most definitely be staying warm and dry in the garage.

My accomplishment today was installing retractable wheels on a nice Harbor Freight workbench, so there is now space for the CRX, X1/9 and i3. Will shift the CRX over a few feet once I get the new fuel pump in.
Pulling one car out will give me back my full workshop area.
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You can also use Oetiker clamps which are one time use and clean things up. These clamps have a working range per size so plan accordingly. Hussein uses these, they can be seen in his older threads when he had a Fiat motor in his pre Hot Wheels version of his car.

 

[bjwhite]

Which wouldd you go for and why, given current availability?
thanks!

Well, I ordered Michelin Exaltos from Longstone Tyres. 185/60/13. I wanted that size and I wanted a quality tire with a proper period tread pattern.

 

[Cratecruncher]

I just scanning that clean, well organized garage and noticed the RC planes. I love building and flying the things myself. About twenty years ago a few of my favorite kit manufacturers went under so I started squirreling away some favorites. I need to get to work on these!

 

[dllubin]

When I was a kid, I had a P40 with a Cox .049 engine controlled by strings. It was fun even though you could only fly in circles. The trick was starting the motor without the propeller hitting your fingers.

Years later I got my daughter an RC car (FX10) which she had fun with. More recently I got the car running and my grandson had great time with it. I was surprised that the 30 year old NiCd motor batteries still held a decent charge.