Sway bars?

ecohen2

True Classic
How much of a difference do sway bars make?

Front only? Front and rear?

Thanks,
Ed

(Yes, I got the ad from Midwest Bayless and am considering it)
 
I only put the front sway bar on mine due to input I received that this would be sufficient. Reason for only the front is the mid-engine design is sufficient that the rear is stable enough as is (I guess due to the weight there). The car feels tighter and more responsive in curves.

*** Downside: the sway bar passes the front's jack point.
 
Front only? Front and rear?

For the street, front only, definitely. The rear bar tends to introduce oversteer, which can be overcome with wider slicks, but the effect on street tires is to wag the tail. Very controllable, but not optimal for getting out of a corner quickly.

Pete
 
I concur with Pete. My previous X (the lime-green '77) came from the PO with front and rear bars. I found the back end a bit too twitchy for my tastes for street driving, so removed the rear bar and felt a bit better about the handling. BTW I still have the rear bar and bracketry if you want to install it temporarily and see how it feels.
 
What are the expectations for chassis-suspension performance?

The exxe as delivered in proper condition has a good set of trade offs for real world road conditions and most drivers. There are a host of ways the exxe chassis-suspension can be altered-set up depending on needs. The idea-belief of simply adding stuff is not always going to make an improvement, it more often than not will make it different.

The exxe was not delivered or originally set up with stability bars (anti-roll bars) to allow independent wheel movement. Once stability bars are added, the stiffer (bigger) they are the less independent wheel behavior will be. This is a definite trade-off for initial turn in weight transfer and modest increase in roll angle with corner loading. Reduction in roll angle has much to do with suspension geometry, generally less roll produces less changes in tire to road angle. This comes at a cost of ride quality and other factors.

Know there is no ideal chassis-suspension set up for all conditions, they are ALL a set of given trade offs.

If more stick is desired, best to put sticker tires on the car first, then go from there. Do put each and every chassis bushing, ball joint and all into as new condition with a proper four wheel alignment to stock setting before deciding if any changes are needed and do ask why and what needs to be different. No suspension add-on (anti-roll bards and such) will help a knackared suspension.


Bernice
 
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