But I believe there is advance circuitry in the GM module to supplement the mechanical aspect of the distributor. I'm not that versed on the domestic stuff so that may be incorrect...just what I read elsewhere.
Hi all iam new here, iam from the otherside of the pond uk, i have a 1979 1500 carb model and i would like to convert to injection, have the manifold,air chamber,injectors ecu, fuel rail and pressure regulator, cold start injector and wiring and air flow sensor and intake hose, i think i have most bits
What other items would i need for the conversion, i also would like a wiring diagram for the double relay pinouts, this coversion is not for power but better running and starting, any help and ideas, and any part numbers for the missing items, John
You'll need the FI-based Ignition distributor, wiring and box also - the carb advance curve is wrong for FI.
Dom
Nice one on using the Arduino, I assume it lives inside the spare tire compartment? Assuming you used a 12v normally closed valve? If so you likely needed to add a board to control it? Or did you make one up yourself?
I have been thinking this would be a good way to add a PWM fan to my 850 to change the way the coolant system works (electric fan and electric water pump, each with a Arduino and PWM board to drive them) as I am also putting in a higher amperage alternator to be able to drive all of this. This is to manage the power use of the cooling system on the car and simplify the bets etc.
Thanks and sorry for dragging this off topic.
Karl
I seem to recall the difference in timing curves for the carb vs. FI dizzy's was the length of the slots on the advance base-plate; one having longer slots to allow more travel. And the vacuum module's degree of "pull". I believe there was an old thread where the plate was modified (changed the slot size) and vac module replaced to achieve the desired timing curve.
Huss, could the 7-pin GM module be wired-in (similar to how the 4-pin version is used) to offer any timing advance benefits in place of the stock spark box? Not sure how it would interface with the mechanical advance of the dizzy...perhaps replace it (lock down the mechanical) or enhance it?
Hi Karl,
I used a 2 pin Bosch idle control valve, similar to this one:
http://www.ebay.de/itm/362003349993
I can check the exact Bosch part number tomorrow, but it doesn't matter that much.
For the drive circuit, that is the real advantage of the Arduino community: you can get mist of these things pre-built and for very little money. You simply need a h-bridge controller like this one:
http://www.ebay.de/itm/321732349566
I also added a higher current alternator in my X1/9, but note that will only help with charging. When you are sitting in a traffic jam with the cooling fans on, typically the alternator won't be doing much. To compensate for this, I added a second battery (Odyssey Hawker PC680) which cuts in under these conditions (fans on, at idle) and also at high RPM (to allow it to charge). Of course, all controlled from the Arduino ;-).
Dom.
I don't yet but expect I will need one to Mega Squirt one of my two X's