My another red car. NFC

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Help needed, am not smart enough.
Starter works.
Every electrical device works except spark device :D- there isn’t any saprk.
Immobilizer works.
Have no idea where to look at. Plug on coil is plugged.

If You have time and will to look for a solution in link below is wiring diagram, this is MPI engine, not for Japanese market.
http://www.cantyminiclub.com/tech/electrical_cdxn990e.pdf
 
With MPI, does the ECU control spark also? If not, then trace the 12V power through the ignition system. At coil "+" when key is 'on', and at distributor (I assume its electronic ignition). If no power then try bypassing the key/etc by jumping 12V direct to the coil.
 
First checked plug on coil, in all three pins there is power (variable? am not electrician and don’t know should it ve like that) as You can see in video.
Does that could mean some issues in cam sensor or also somewhere else.
Car was running, last time I tried to, ~4 years ago:oops:
 
Ha, I guess the Mini is like the X1/9, always look at ground connections first. Glad you found it, now you ARE an electrician! Good work.
 
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If You can find missing ground, are electrician? :D Then I may try luck to instal tunable ECU on my X19.

Don’t know was I more overexcited when got running that UT engine and whole X19, or now- made a car back running what was sitting 4 years on shelfs in garage.

Made a little drive around yard with Mini and got that feeling how it was to drive - X19 definitely is my choice now, in all aspects, except it doesn’t look so sweet :D
 
The Mini looks great. Are those wheels from a 'new' model Mini?
Be sure to take your 'friend' for a ride in it. I'm talking about this guy....
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Dr.Jeff said:
The Mini looks great. Are those wheels from a 'new' model Mini?
Be sure to take your 'friend' for a ride in it. I'm talking about this guy....
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Haha Jeff, I was 100% sure that You will zoom in and notice it hahhaha. There all is original from factory on this mini (wheels included) except paintjob and headlining, and chrome wiper arm, am waiting for new black one, and steering wheel-origal with airbag looked too clumsy (don’t know what this word means, but it sounds like it looks)

Those wheels are R13, on new mini smallest size could be R15 I think.
 
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On a first Mini installed front and rear windows ~2hours, 3 persons. With rope method.
On another one, alone in 8 minutes, both windows. With cloth hanger’s method :D

It was so easy this time, that it is not anymore in list “it was last time”

*when watched video tought that are cut out a lot of parts, didn’t believe that one man can do it so easy
 
I've been having technical problems playing YouTube videos on my computer lately, so unable to see this. But my VW's windows have the same type rubber gasket and they are usually installed the way you did previously (with a rope). I will be reinstalling them after the interior is done and very curious to see this method. I'll save this video until I can resolve the playback issue. Thanks for sharing.
 
This motivated me to research the video problem on my computer, and I think it is fixed! Now I can watch porn again. :eek:

Reviewed the video above. I have that green tool (just a plastic pry tool) and the metal hook tool (it is helpful for lots of things), but not the 'chrome insert' tool (that is nice, otherwise slow to get the trim piece in). And I have tried the method like he does (no rope) on a 70's era BMW (same type). He makes it look easy. Unfortunately my experience was not so good. The brand new windshield cracked while trying to get the rubber over the edges. It would have been cheaper to pay for the install service than buy another windshield. But maybe it was how I did it or the rubber itself (his looks more soft and pliable than I remember mine). Or maybe it is different with the Mini windshield. That was a long time ago. Not sure if I will try again or have a specialist do it next time?
 
I used only those vlios from hangers.
No metals tools. No pressure that can brake glass, even less than he did. And did it also a bit different.
Slided one side ( ~1/4) in in it’s place. After that with plastic clips pushed rubber out on remaining 2 corners. And then just with clips slided remaining rubber over edge in it’s place (from outside) . It was even faster than in his video. No lube.

Did it with rope previously because, everyone told me that it is how it must be done. Bad part is that with rope rubber can be damaged, interior materials and headliner also can be damaged or pulled out of place.

No issues in a “new” way.

It was first time that I tried to do this job (I was an assistant previously), was too stubborn to ask for help today :D successfully..
 
Nice work. Same here, always been told the rope was the way to do it. But that was after I already tried doing like in the video (with bad result). But agree the rope can do some damage. Difference with rope is you put the rubber on the glass first, then on the car. With new method the rubber goes on the car first, then glass goes in.

You might have a good idea to start with the corners first. That was where mine broke the glass; last corner was very tight and I tried to pry the rubber over the glass...too much pressure on the glass.

Using some lube seemed to help a lot, but you did not need it. Maybe the Mini is easier overall? Less curve or looser gap? Definitely smaller than VW windshield. Not sure how much harder though.

So when you come to finish my X1/9, you can install my VW glass also. ;) Actually the VW still has a long way to go. I should stop working on so many projects at the same time and finish one.
 
For ~3 weeks car sat with low(absolutely low) battery.
Was going to charge it and appeared that + clamp had touched chassis and “welded” together. o_O
It looks there isn’t any damage to electrical devices.

Charged battery yesterday to move car a bit further.
Battery is absolutely low again after 24h. Could be that the battery didn’t survive from that situation?
 
May have shorted some cells when it welded to ground. To check for that you need a load tester (below). Is it a wet cell ("flooded lead-acid") type? If so you can check the acid percent with one of those little "turkey baster" battery testers (also below). If the battery has been sitting for a long time it might be sulfated also. Some chargers have a function that is supposed to help repair sulfation and bring the battery back to life. I'm not sure how well they work for that; a sulfated battery has chemistry problems that cannot be reversed by charging. But might be worth a try.

There are all types of load testers. Maybe a local shop has a more sophisticated one and will check it for you:
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Hydrometer for specific gravity of the acid/water:
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Batteries suck. We need a nuclear reactor that will fit in a car.
 
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This is a way how You should not spent the summer.
Only thing left is to adjust rear drums, on this mini :D
And Fiat is waiting.. am a bit tired of life in a garage. Good news is that I have not anymore garage.
 
Summers are for enjoyment. And sometimes working on projects isn't as fun as other times.

Why no more garage?
 
Dr.Jeff said:
Summers are for enjoyment. And sometimes working on projects isn't as fun as other times.

Why no more garage?
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I’m moving within one month, sold it at first opportunity.
That’s reason why am in a little rush with those red cars.

P.S. Checked another one Punto 1.6 SOHC for 50€. It’s red :/
 
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