Latest Project (#2)

lookforjoe said:
OK. I'll look for sheet metal & plate stock within the ranges you & Darwoodious have listed. I know Home Depot has flat stock & angle iron in 1/8", and 16g sheet metal. Square stock is limited to 1.25" x 16g. If the stock metal surrounding is substantially thinner, I don't see welding heavier stock to it as an advantage? Unless that's attached/joined where there are multiple layers, like the suspension attachments?

Should I plan on adding a reinforcing member within the rear upper crossmember on the '87? I saw posts regarding this, but I thought that was a early body issue. I don't recall MWB mentioning that in the kit notes, I'll recheck.
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Honestly don’t think it’s critical for later model chassis but definitely something to consider. For 74 I think everyone should add reinforcement swap or not. Also I didn’t mention I also added gusssets to the lower channel as well. No pics sorry.
 
Tim, I think you were asking about replacement heater cores recently. I came across one that might be worth considering, just by eyeing it. Do you (or anyone) have the dimensions of the stock one to compare with? Mine are all installed in the cars. I'd like to see how close this one is based on general size first.
 
look for a local metal place rather than a home store. unless you just love to grind off scale, get cold rolled (or cold finished) bar or sheet. over here in Seattle, the metal stock selection at any of the hardware stores is pretty minimal, so for my small projects I use either metalsupermarkets.com or onlinemetals.com - both have a pickup location 30 mins away. I'm sure there are others in your neck of the woods.

I don't think that reinforcing the rear upper crossmember is required - from what I understand and have read, this member would get crushed by the dogbone on hopped up engines in the 74, or dropping the clutch etc. for your build, you'll be using the engine subframe attached to the suspension pickup points for all of your engine thrust with a tiny bit picked up by the passenger-side framerail mount. that's why the MWB kit calls for adding the reinforcement on the lower rear crossmember and welding the front suspension pickup points.
 
Dr.Jeff said:
Tim, I think you were asking about replacement heater cores recently. I came across one that might be worth considering, just by eyeing it. Do you (or anyone) have the dimensions of the stock one to compare with? Mine are all installed in the cars. I'd like to see how close this one is based on general size first.
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Jeff - I went with 124 core. It's larger so the box will need to be modified (I will document it all) but it should do the trick. Thanks!
 
I completely agree with Darin about getting your metal supplies from a industrial metal supply house. And about getting cold rolled, so much easier to prep and work with. Just don't let it get wet, it isn't protected like hot roll is.
 
Dr.Jeff said:
I completely agree with Darin about getting your metal supplies from a industrial metal supply house. And about getting cold rolled, so much easier to prep and work with. Just don't let it get wet, it isn't protected like hot roll is.
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I second that! Here in the bay area, I get my metal from these dudes in Redwood City - https://www.yelp.com/biz/alan-steel-and-supply-redwood-city (no website of their own). Not sure how long they have been around, but clearly it pre-dawns the WWW :) I would guess at least 35 since I used to sell/buy stuff from them while I worked at RJ Leahy Company in SF (circa 1928) https://www.rjleahy.com/aboutus.asp
 
There used to be a local metal fabrication shop in a small industrial complex - basically a strip mall of workshops :) Sadly, they have all gone the way of the DoDo around here. I will have a search though. I used the one I referred to back in the early 80's to fabricate repair sills, etc., for my MGB.
 
fiatmonkey said:
I second that! Here in the bay area, I get my metal from these dudes in Redwood City - https://www.yelp.com/biz/alan-steel-and-supply-redwood-city (no website of their own). Not sure how long they have been around, but clearly it pre-dawns the WWW :) I would guess at least 35 since I used to sell/buy stuff from them while I worked at RJ Leahy Company in SF (circa 1928) https://www.rjleahy.com/aboutus.asp
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I recall first going there some time in the 70s and they looked like they had been there for quite a while.
 
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I found some pics of the pulley side mount from MWB where I tacked on a
Coupler nut to line up the engine mount bolts.
lookforjoe said:
Curious how this is progressing.

Pondering motor swap possibilities again. Has been discussion of using Fiat/Lancia 16V, however locating the right mix of (old and new) parts seems to be a nightmare.

Also, does the K24 motor fit the same way as the K20? They are MUCH cheaper & easier to find. For an NA build, it seems the higher torque would be a definite plus for 'normal' driving.

I see that yours uses the K24 bottom end, so are the mounts the same either way, or are (different) modifications needed to fit it to the subframe? Are you using a MWB frame kit or do you make your own?
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fiatmonkey said:
Yes. I think I shared the dimensions with Matt. Does he know you are not using k20?
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Yes. When I asked about the kit, I asked if they had a K24 variant. He said they should have that mount accounted for over the winter, so hopefully when I get mine in the spring it will be K24 adapted version
 
Engine in car so I can get the fuel and coolant line geometry.

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fiatmonkey said:
Took me FOREVER to get back up to the car. Work has had me traveling pretty much across the globe lately, but managed a couple of days last week - I test fit the engine then put in the last chassis engine mount.

Everything else fits PERFECT. The water pump delete makes a ton of space to route things as well. The electric pump I got from Pete can mount in the front of the car and fits behind the rad. I will have more pics when I start putting the cooling lines back together.
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Hey Tim - did you swap out the K24 driveshaft & bearing for the K20 version? Looking at this pic, the offset is definitely not the same as the TSX K24, and looks the same as Rodger's (K20)

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Hey all. Been FOREVER since I posted anything here but I have posted a few things on Xweb's FB page. I was super excited yesterday as I FINALLY got the k24/k20 build started :)



There was a lot more engineering on this one as I had reversed the intake/throttle body position and removed the belt driven water pump and replaced it with an electric one.

 
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Is that a bolt going through the wheel bearing where the axle would spine in. I know Caravan's if you push them around without an axle in the wheel bearing will come apart. I have been told it is not an issue with our x1/9. what are your thoughts?
 
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