Volvo C30 AWD Conversion

lookforjoe

True Classic
Have to do this before the K24, need to be able to drive the Bertone whilst this takes place in the Spring. Will drive this to Carlisle Import Show if done, otherwise X1/9 will go.

AWD drivetrain components, rear subframe, etc., coming from this:
Price is right for the donor, was mint prior to roll :D. Lower miles than my C30

EDIT: Haldex Controller overview/problems

Fix using VanDerVeer VAG controller

Terminal housings & terminals

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Got the M66 AWD manual trans a few days ago, installed a Quaife 14J posi (new bearings & seals of course) today

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back together - to be filled with Volvo # 31280772 (4l- transaxle needs just over 2l)

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I was looking at a C30 when I bought my Mini, the reviewers kind of panned it’s handling which steered me towards the Mini. Good luck and have fun.
 
Awesome project! Best of luck, Certainly if anyone can do it, you can.

Thank you. The current issue is that with the larger turbo & tune, I just break the tires loose in the first few gears on a roll. AWD will fix that :D

Also blacked out the chrome in the headlamp housings, and installing Bi-Xenon projectors next

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I recall a few projects on the VWVortex over the years to add AD/Syncro system to a VW Jetta wagon using components from a EU Syncro. It was quite a project moving the floorpan and associated mounts, fuel tank etc.

Agreed if someone can do it, its you. Good luck and please drag us along. We always are willing to learn.
 
I was looking at a C30 when I bought my Mini, the reviewers kind of panned it’s handling which steered me towards the Mini. Good luck and have fun.

Thank you - the handling is pretty good, once some inexpensive mods are performed - it's the same chassis as Mazda3 & Similar vintage Ford Focus (High performance version only in EU market), so there are readily available parts to do this.

It was fun to be at The Dragon with about 30 other C30's a couple years back :) I would imagine there is a similar meet for Minis :D

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Looks like main issues to be solved are the Haldex (under way), and the blasted fuel level reporting. Seems Volvo uses software to 'interpret' or analyze the signals from the two level sensors (saddle tank in AWD models) according to the Volvo technical data. Signals go into CEM, then fed to DIM (Driver Info Module, ala' dashboard) where it is analyzed & interpreted to present accurate level on the guage. Bloody hell.

I can't recall how the signals were merged to one output on my old AWD wagon, but it wasn't complicated. In this case, it looks like the easiest solution (as no software can be involved) is to build a summing amplifier. I have no knowledge of this, so more investigation will be required, along with math :(

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To determine the resistor values, I/O voltage values are needed. Of course, the Volvo diagnostic manuals don't provide any such info, as one is not expected to measure such things anymore, just replace parts if the system is inaccurate.
 
Car is here - left MD this afternoon

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Tomorrow I'll start pulling it apart, weather permitting.

Only thing I did after it arrived was check the angle gear splines & check fit on the trans coupler. Hard to photograph.

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No discernable play, so that's good.
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AWD torque mount bracket 31304003 (from the automatic) fit the M66 manual with a minor mod

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Interesting that the AWD drive module is literally a bolt on.

A number of other vehicles I have seen use a completely different casting for the whole transmission (VW Toyota).

Looks like fun.
 
Interesting that the AWD drive module is literally a bolt on.

A number of other vehicles I have seen use a completely different casting for the whole transmission (VW Toyota).

Looks like fun.

It's a different casting. The inner half of the transaxle housing has to have the provision for the drive transfer from the diff to the angle drive (#23 in this pic)

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I bought another AWD trans & installed a Quaife LSD in it. Standard FWD case looks like this (I removed to install WaveTrac LSD a couple years back):

smaller seal, only has to seal axle shaft
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vs.

larger bore, inner & outer seals for protruding splined coupler sleeve
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Took the wiring out yesterday.

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Then. like a idiot I CUT the one section I shouldn't have - the right side feed through the floor to the Haldex & ABS. Don't know WTF I was thinking :(

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So now I'll have to carefully reattach the wiring to the 64/50 connector, the ONE thing I didn't want to mess with! Tracing those wires, they (Wh, Bn, Y) go to the black 29 pin connector (64/113, pins 19, 27, 20) in the pas footwell.

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the F connector at the CEM (Gy-Rd, Bu-Rd pins F:16, F:14, Gn-Wh for fuel level F:25)

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CEM connectors:

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the fuel module connector (64-51 Gy-R, Bu-Rd pins 2, 5).

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Ground (Y-B) joins the black ground wires on the inner sill, and Gn-R (vBat?) goes to the large CEM connector (pin 39 ) EDIT - correction; Gn-R goes to pin 38

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I'll pull those wires from the connectors & insert into the appropriate terminals in my C30 harness - I'm assuming they don't exist (besides the pair going to 64/51)?

Going to pull the AWD 2nd sender wire from 64/51 pin 4 -> F:25 and add it to the C30 harness.

Checked the aftermarket right axle for fit in the trans/BG, and overall length

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Chopped a BIG hole in the S40 floor. Pan is different form factor than I recall the C30 being, but maybe it's just that added section that retains the forward cushion edge & acts as a crossmember in the C30. I'll have to remove my cushion to refresh my memory.

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The plan here is to mark reference points consistant across both models & make an accurate template for cutting the C30 pan, then cut a larger (than the hole) cover panel from this piece. put rivnuts in the pan, make a seal and use M6 hardware to retain the cover.

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Stripped the cabin harness down this morning. I like to have a good supply of pigtails :D

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Removing all the connectors on these isn't bad. There is a cap that you remove, then

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use a tool to pry the plastic clip off the connector, and withdraw

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Dropped the rear this afternoon.

I didn't realize several things are in the way, and have to be disconnected before you drop the rear too far.

Six bolts hold the subframe, plus 4 bolts for the trailing arms, then...

Purge valve

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Purge valve wiring tied to crossmember

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Still managed to chew up these wires

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Then EVAP lines, Rear out, then exhaust.

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Propeller shaft. Have to replace the forward CV. This P shaft is # 30713165, repl # 30735305 also NLA. #31216175 CV (3", 24 spline) is listed for the available P shaft 31256269 (30759601) , but I don't know if it fits the earlier shaft, I'll have to look for markings. Should have HLJ75 apparently .

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Heat shield, splash guards, cover plates, crossmembers

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Gas tank coming out. Just 2 lines to disconnect (and the brackets securing filler neck to frame), and pull the fuel module harness through.

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Floor, with oversize hole I cut out. C30 will only be about 8" hole

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Stashed in the garage. Supposed to snow tonight.

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I broke the blasted neck off the fuel sender (smacked it parking the rear crossmember). I'm not using this one anyway, but still. :D

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I pulled the CV's. Both F&R are binding, so I'll just replace them both

Front has torn boot

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Grease is cooked, outer races have worn grooves

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Ordered a pair of the eBay listed HLJ75's.

Going over the wiring. I have the harness repaired & ready to go in. Will reuse the stock ABS harness.

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This is the wiring, based on actual component locations.

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Not sure why the bridge is on the Haldex side of the connector. I made sure to reconnect F14,16 to 64/50 3 & 4. Those pins are larger load carriers than the pins 5 & 6. Must be a reason they chose to do it that way.

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Have to see if I can figure out the part number for the Tyco terminals they used, I'm going to need some. EDIT: Volvo # 8651342

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Next problem is the fuel sender. The catalog listing is unclear. I have to assume I have the early unit, as the later one says S40 CH 305679-, and mine is 084465. Still shows two variants, 8629530 & 30792781; both of which seem to be valid PN's. I assume I have to use the AWD sender rather than my C30 (or a replacement) unit, or it won't have the signal from the left float. Not planning on buying one from Volvo, unless I have no option, just need to figure out which number I have to work with.

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There are two tank #'s also. 30742527 & 30742528. I'd like to make sure I have whatever updated version sender I can make fit my tank.

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EDIT - mine uses the 30792781 Unit
 
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Putzed around today. The prop shaft carriers are mounted on rubber bushings with a metal tophat sleeve, presumably to reduce vibration in the cabin. They are not sold separately, have to pay $70+ for the whole bracket. WTF is up with cars nowadays!

Took a couple grommets (bottom, right) & bored them out to 19mm to match the original, and shaved them width-wise .

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Done. If it presents an issue DTR, I'll have to look further for alternate bushings.

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Your putzing around equates to me putting in a full ability effort. Which is to say: little ability and little actually accomplished.

Replace, not repair and refinish is the problem with cars and repair today.

Low labor cost at the factory, high labor cost at the repair facility with little actual ability, has driven cars to this approach. That and there are just more parts than ever before in a car, stocking all the parts is well nigh onto impossible.
 
CV's also came today, so I put those in.

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These aftermarket units had .016" end float on the shaft, not good I reckon. I added a hardened steel washer to take up the play.

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Also re welded the captive nuts to the crossmember that supports the forward prop shaft carrier bearing. The PO must have zapped them with an impact, the spot welds were sheared right through.

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Shouldn’t there be a wavy washer or other compliant spring washer on the axle rather than the washer you added?
 
Shouldn’t there be a wavy washer or other compliant spring washer on the axle rather than the washer you added?
Volvo doesn't use a Belleville washer like the X1/9. The OE part fits snug against the circlip without a tensioner, I just want to make sure I have similar situation.
 
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