76' K20 restmod

Welcome, and Very Cool! I've not seen an old body without the rear access panel. I see it has less of an opening in the lower area, too. Looks like you've been busy with the seam welds!

Curious to know what was going on here - looks like you cut a hole in the top of the frame rail?

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Lots of work getting done.

What is the grey paint finish called on your suspension uprights (pillars)? Is it "cast iron grey" or ?? I like the color for components like that.

And I second the aftermarket ball joint boots. Several stores on eBay offer a selection to choose from.
 
Joe, the hole was the motor mount. I tried to quickly remove it...it did not work out. (old hammer and chisel on spot welds) the top part separated in seconds. I pounded the torn metal in then welded a patch. Before i did that I cut the corner edge of the top and bottom of the frame rail and moved the side panel in and re-welded to give a little more room for the pulley side of the motor. I ran a new plate from the firewall back to the slight indentation near the rear trunk for added strength.
The grey paint Jeff is cast grey,(see pic) I like the look as well. Thanks Stingray on the boot connection. I certainly do need a few.
Trying to take advantage of the roller coaster NE Ohio weather. Its a great time to be in the garage.
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The grey paint Jeff is cast grey,(see pic) I like the look as well.
Thanks, I thought that was it. I have a couple cans of the same "Seymour" cast grey paint, as well as their 'aluminum' paint, but I haven't tried them on anything yet. So wasn't sure how it turns out. I like Seymour for spray can paints. Apparently they are the oldest maker of spray paints, having invented it. I used their 'titanium' on my front pulley and crank trigger (for the turbo build), but honestly the color isn't as impressive as it sounds...just looks like a semi gloss silver/light grey (I was hoping for more of a alloy metallic look):
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Will have to use some filler and smooth it all out. The rolling shape and 16 gauge steel ( its what I had ) were a son of a gun to form. She is solid...not pretty...but solid
 
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I like the reduced left cut out & contoured inset (vs. squared-off) - looks like you only took about half the depth of the rail out. Did you also raise or push out the outer skins where others had clearance concerns with the forward outer edge of the transaxle casing?
 
I do need the welding practice. I am used to stick welding 1/4 inch or better. I was never formally trained just learned on fly...like im doing now.

I test fit the engine a couple of times and felt that I removed too much rail. I believe that you just need to cut closer to the firewall. That appears to be the part of the transmission that needs the most clearance. I added thickness to the side rail and thought the contoured weld would be stronger. Of course i will test fit again before finishing. Fingers crossed.
 
Well, ran into a small set back. My left frame rail did not have enough room. Slight miscalculation on my part. Joe was right...good eye

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The driver side top front corner on the transmission is the area that needs the most room. I believe it would be the only area that needs to be modified. Engine now fits with good clarence. Will need to go with the banjo fitting for the clutch slave cylinder as it is tight to the firewall.
 
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