88 Yugo GV Carb to EFI

-Both the needle and the float / float arms move very freely. They almost seem brand new.
-The fuel ports on either side flow when the float is down and when I lift it the fuel stops. The ports are clear, the needle stops fuel flow when it is too high and allows it when it is too low.
-I will try to adjust it later this week to see if this is the problem, but I have my doubts.
-I don't have a protractor handy but I believe it was around 30 degrees, I have no way to know for sure though.
-The needle follows the float absolutely fine, just as it should.

-Pouring good, fresh gasoline into the bowl of the carburetor the car fired right up... And promptly died a few seconds later. After taking the top of the carburetor off again, the bowl was completely empty.

-I will try swapping the hoses later to see if this could be the problem, but I have my doubts about this as well, since the service manual points to the specific port where fuel is designed to enter - That's where the output of the fuel pump is attached.
 
FAMICOMASTER said:
-Both the needle and the float / float arms move very freely. They almost seem brand new.
-The fuel ports on either side flow when the float is down and when I lift it the fuel stops. The ports are clear, the needle stops fuel flow when it is too high and allows it when it is too low.
-I will try to adjust it later this week to see if this is the problem, but I have my doubts.
-I don't have a protractor handy but I believe it was around 30 degrees, I have no way to know for sure though.
-The needle follows the float absolutely fine, just as it should.

-Pouring good, fresh gasoline into the bowl of the carburetor the car fired right up... And promptly died a few seconds later. After taking the top of the carburetor off again, the bowl was completely empty.

-I will try swapping the hoses later to see if this could be the problem, but I have my doubts about this as well, since the service manual points to the specific port where fuel is designed to enter - That's where the output of the fuel pump is attached.
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Some pics would help, but it sounds like your float is set too low and the fuel is shut off when the carb is assembled.
When you had it apart what was the angle of the float when fuel stopped flowing?
 
Adjusting the float level made it start and run, but in the process I damaged the gasket. I took the good gasket off the old carburetor and put it on this one and it started and ran as well - Until I manually opened the choke slightly to idle it down. After opening the choke, it wouldn't start. Closed the choke. Wouldn't start.

By this point it was getting a bit late in the day so I moved on to control arm bushings... Which I had the wrong part for. Turns out that the Fiat bushing is completely different from the Yugo's. Where the Fiat has a dogbone style rubber bushing (pictured below), the Yugo uses two donut looking things and a metal sheath through them (Not pictured as I couldn't find one, but I took a picture of the actual place to mount it instead). What do I use instead?
2

MVIMG_20190314_163146.jpg
 
FAMICOMASTER said:
And here's a picture of the carburetor, it's a Weber 740 two barrel.

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Looks like the jets, idle and main, need cleaning. I think the entire carb needs cleaning.
Does the accel jet squirt any fuel?
Have you checked the strainer screen at the hose connection?
2 more pics if you can. One with the carb cover held horizontally with the float hanging down and one vertical (needle jet at the top showing the float hanging).

MVIMG_20190325_173603.jpg
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Oops, looks like my answer is with your quote.
 
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gene cooley said:
Oops, looks like my answer is with your quote.
Click to expand...
Funny enough, this is AFTER drowning the Jets (and most of the carb) in carb cleaner and letting it sit for several hours.

Accelerator jet (little gray piece I'm assuming) does not squirt fuel, but this is a known problem and I'm waiting on a rebuild kit. It leaks gas onto the exhaust manifold, so it had to be replaced as soon as possible.

There doesn't seem to be a strainer but the fuel flows through the fitting and into the bowl just fine, so it's not a problem.

I'll take the pictures later once I can push the car out again. Not wise to work on it at night.
 
FAMICOMASTER said:
Funny enough, this is AFTER drowning the Jets (and most of the carb) in carb cleaner and letting it sit for several hours.

Accelerator jet (little gray piece I'm assuming) does not squirt fuel, but this is a known problem and I'm waiting on a rebuild kit. It leaks gas onto the exhaust manifold, so it had to be replaced as soon as possible.

There doesn't seem to be a strainer but the fuel flows through the fitting and into the bowl just fine, so it's not a problem.

I'll take the pictures later once I can push the car out again. Not wise to work on it at night.
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I thought that flow into the bowl was the problem.
Is it leaking from the pump diaphragm?

You really need to remove the carb to clean it. It needs to be taken apart. Just spraying it doesn't do much except move stuff around.

Not sure there's a float problem, but when you get a chance take the pics anyway.
 
Usually if gas is leaking out he carb it's due to a leaking accel pump diaphragm, which might also explain why the pump does not squirt fuel out the pump nozzle. Admittedly the nozzle can get plugged since the orifice is so tiny.
 
carl said:
Usually if gas is leaking out he carb it's due to a leaking accel pump diaphragm, which might also explain why the pump does not squirt fuel out the pump nozzle. Admittedly the nozzle can get plugged since the orifice is so tiny.
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Sometimes Webers have lead plugs that work out and dump fuel.
The 40 IDF's on my SuperVee had this happen during a run, it sprayed gas all over before I knew it had dropped out. They can leak before they fall out. Definitely a leak after they come out!
 
gene cooley said:
Sometimes Webers have lead plugs that work out and dump fuel.
The 40 IDF's on my SuperVee had this happen during a run, it sprayed gas all over before I knew it had dropped out. They can leak before they fall out. Definitely a leak after they come out!
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That would be quite unusual. Possible yes, normal circumstance, no. Particularly when there are a slew of other possibilities in a carb with an unknown history.

I think the problem is much more likely to be gasket related.

A gasket set, dunking in solvent and cleaning all the passage with a careful reassembly will likely resolve all that ills it.
 
Adjusted the bowl several times and even had someone who knows what they're doing (mechanic friend who lives down the road) adjust it to no avail. It is very hard to start (engine spins over but rarely catches) and when it does start, it will not idle. To keep it running, you must be on the gas. If it shuts off, it will go back to step one with the added effect of it not catching at all unless you pour gas into it.

Removed jets and cleaned them, checked for obvious vacuum leaks but found nothing. Suggestions before I spend $20 on a rebuild kit and several hours trying to fix it like that? Any tips and tricks for removing, disassembling, cleaning, and reinstalling?
 
Does this car have an idle stop solenoid? If so, it may not be working and cutting off your idle circuit.
 
It does have an idle circuit solenoid and it does work.

Before the carburetor problems started really piling themselves on, the car would start easily but never stay running - Turned out the solenoid was disconnected. Plugged it back in and it would stay running on it's own.

If I touch it with a 9v battery you can hear it click.
 
Sorry, it isn’t clear, have you taken the carb off, taken it apart fully, cleaned each part, cleaned out all the passages and then reassembled it?
 
kmead said:
Sorry, it isn’t clear, have you taken the carb off, taken it apart fully, cleaned each part, cleaned out all the passages and then reassembled it?
Click to expand...
No, I have not yet. I've been busy with work and haven't had a chance to push it out of my garage and mess with it much.

I have a "full" rebuild kit and I'm arranging to borrow an ultrasonic cleaner from a friend. It's meant for guns but I think it should work for this, too.
 
Very good. Careful if the cleaning agent as some things will turn your carb into a gooey mess of zinc
 
I rebuilt the carburetor last night and installed it this morning. Took the whole thing apart, let each part sit in a can of Chem-Dip for an hour, rinsed them off, let them dry overnight. Reassembled the carburetor today with all new seals and diaphragms. After putting it on the car, I turned ignition on and let the bowl fill for about 30 seconds before turning the key. Started first crank.

Drove around for a few minutes in my neighborhood, got some funny looks but ultimately it seemed to be running great. Started coming into my driveway and it started dying hard, and I mean hard. Not in gear, AC off, accelerator to the floor it was barely idling, and as soon as I took my foot off of it, it died and refused to restart. Luckily it wasn't that much of a push to get it back home, but it still wouldn't start.

This time, I poured gas down the intake and it didn't seem to change anything, so this time it's not the carburetor. I haven't changed the timing and the belt is still good.

Any thoughts?
 
Does this carb have a fuel shut off solenoid? They are used to shut off the fuel, when the ignition is turned off. Prevents after run and reduces pollution.

If it doesn't work, then no fuel.
 
The shut of solenoid does work, I can hear it click if I apply power to it.

During the rebuild, I had it off the carb, and applying power to the solenoid by itself would cause it to click and pull the metal peg inside, like I assume it's supposed to.
 
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