Rusted Out 1970 850 Spider Fix-Up

Let's have some fun with the sending unit! There is really not much left of the backing plate, but there is enough.

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Here is what it looks like put together. What I am going to do is try to do is create a new back plate and solder it into place.
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I made this plate first. Since I cannot easily get to the end of the rod, I had to cut a slot and work around the rod.
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And here we are after I forgot to take more pictures! Two plates soldered into place, and both the regular gauge and the low fuel sending light seem to be working. Does anyone have the resistance measurements for the fuel sending unit so I can verify? I had to run a ground wire as I did not trust the old rusty bits.
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Not bad! Let us see how it works!
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While I am still waiting for every last bit of water to dry off in the tank before I coat it, I decided to try and make the engine compartment look a little better. Passenger side to go.. I was not impressed by how fiat left about half of it unpainted. Of course, now I have 5 broken off bolts I need to drill out. Supposed to be about 15 degrees cooler tomorrow, but rainy. Maybe I can get some of this done. I also need to get the transmission off the engine and get the clutch off for rebuilding.

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Ok, the gas tank is sealed and drying. The transmission is apart from the engine and I hope to get the clutch off to the rebuilder early next week. I got all the hose I need to rebuild the emissions system. Now to get the underbood tidied up and get everything back in place. Slowly but surely getting there. I need to tackle the ignition key as well.
 
What will the clutch rebuilder do? Isn’t it cheaper to just get new components?

Last time I had a clutch sent in, they relined the disk, resurfaced and replaced the pressure plate springs, new throw out bearing and a alignment tool. Seems like it was around 175 or so not including shipping. Only took a few days as well. I thought it was a deal. That was a few years ago though.
 
Midwest has the complete clutch on sale for $179. But its good to know those services are still available.
When I ordered a cutch kit for a 124 (not from Midwest) it came with a plastic! throw out bearing .I elected not to use that.
 
I misspoke about the clutch. Pressure plate and disk are $60 to redo. Getting a new throwout bearing as part of it, but not sure of the price on it.

But, in other news, I have the wiring harness pretty much back up in place. The horn relay kinda broke when I took the wires off, so I have to fix that. I tried to make sure all connections were clean and continuity existed. I am sure there is much more to come on that. Still need to hook up the smog stuff. Also painted where appropriate.
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Here is the clutch that I hope to get shipped today.
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Tank reinstall is next, then smog lines! Then I think I will turn my attention to the ignition switch.
 
The evaporative systems don’t affect the running of any car, it just deals with the light hydrocarbons which are trying to get out of the tank through evaporation.

The rest of the systems can be dumped but there weren’t many emissions systems on the 850s. A few solenoid air valves which can be excised pretty easily.
 
Getting the ignition switch out is easy, right? Just drill it to the point you can turn it and free the steering lock, undo the two screws, and push in on the side with an Allen wrench. Easy-peazy! WRONG! It would not let go on the side. 4 hours of cutting and drilling to get it to the point where I destroyed that side push-button evil thing, and it FINALLY drug itself out. And yes, it I tried to be as nice as possible and try everything before resorting to violence. Props to fiat for making their locks almost invincible!

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Ok! The tank is finally back in! I had been waiting on a replacement tank strainer sock. Found a VW one that will do the trick. Also started running the emissions lines and I got the repaired horn relay back in. I forgot to get new heater hoses, so that is next. Then finish emissions stuff. The clutch should be back early next week. Getting closer!

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The basic kits are pretty cheap. The complete kits are pretty expensive.

When doing the rebuild be sure to pull the brass fuel line supply and return nipples. Choose a method for reinstalling them which includes some form of fuel resistant retention. I chose to remove them clean the interior thoroughly, rough up the brass tubes and then epoxy them back into the bores.

Many 850s have burnt down as a result of those nipples pulling out spraying gas all over and people using plastic fuel line filters.

Just some suggestions.
 
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