What did you do to your X1/9 today ?

dllubin said:
Definitely pulls better in the lower rpm range where the timing had to be too far retarded before in order to keep the high rpms from being too far advanced.
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well that's sound the opposite of my experience: when i retard a bit the static advance, the car loose some low end torque but reach the higher rpm very quick..with more advance it has stronger low end, but does stall @4500rpm
 
Integrale said:
I think it has been discussed before. Fiat 500 Abarth turbo calipers and base model 500 rotors. The Abarth calipers are really hard to find. The only modification is to drill out the hub for the bigger mounting bolts.
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Thanks. Then sounds like it is the same set up as TonyK posted about previously (link below). I just wanted to confirm that, and to see if you found anything different in doing it. I agree that getting the Abarth calipers is expensive.
https://xwebforums.com/forum/index.php?threads/fiat-500-abarth-brakes-installed-on-x1-9.36779/
 
Dr.Jeff said:
Thanks Bjorn. Ideally if you have the springs off, the total lengths with the shaft fully extended and fully collapsed would be a good start. It can get a bit particular from there to compare all dimensions, but the overall lengths will say if these are a worthwhile platform to start from. :)
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Sorry for my late respons, the X got all attention the last weeks.
I'v measured my Ford Probe Mk2 coils. Unfortunately I couldn't have them off as it would have destroyed the wheel alignment, and would have create too much work to be completely honest. However, this doesn't have much impact on measures as the spring I not compressed. Ride hight and stiffness should not be adjusted by compressing the spring on moder coilovers. At least not on D2's. My springs are in the position of just to be compressed.
Rear:
Core 480mm
Spring 240mm
Adjustment 160mm
As seen on pic. the car can be lowered another 40mm (until adj. meets spring) or highered aprox. 100mm
upload_2019-9-18_23-12-16.png


Front:
Core 400mm
Spring 205mm
Adj. 115mm
As on pic. It can be lowered another 25mm or highered aprox. 70mm.
upload_2019-9-18_23-15-7.png


I hope this can spread some light if modifying D2 Ford Probe/Mszda 626/MX6 to fit in a X.
D2 coils for X1/9 are made to order with these types of top plates:
upload_2019-9-18_23-24-13.png

Everything except "A" looks strange to me.
 
Thanks Bjorn. Where did the "core" measurements come from (what points on the unit)?

With the top plates having sliding adjustment for camber, I think the optional types of plates are for changing caster along with camber. For example, "A" only changes camber as it moves back and forth in adjustment. But "K" would change equal amounts of camber AND caster with the same movement. The others will be proportionally different amounts of caster with a given caster change. That's what it looks like to me anyway.
 
Dr.Jeff said:
Thanks Bjorn. Where did the "core" measurements come from (what points on the unit)?

With the top plates having sliding adjustment for camber, I think the optional types of plates are for changing caster along with camber. For example, "A" only changes camber as it moves back and forth in adjustment. But "K" would change equal amounts of camber AND caster with the same movement. The others will be proportionally different amounts of caster with a given caster change. That's what it looks like to me anyway.
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Core is the full length of the damper fully stretched, measured from down side of top plate to the end of the damper. The hight is adjusted by rotating the core/spring which moves the lower mounting bracket up/down.
Your explanation for D2 Top Plates for X makes perfectly sense. D2 do not provide caster adjustment this way for any other car. Nice!
 
New seat belts fitted today.

Being a member of the 180 club I picked up this unbranded dial gauge off eBay for £20 to check the painted mark somebody had put on the flywheel, seems to be just about spot on.

 
NEG said:
dial gauge to check the painted mark somebody had put on the flywheel
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That appears to be a TDC checker, with a spark plug type fitting on the end? I'll be interested to hear how it works with the SOHC's rather severely angled plug location (relative to the piston's movement). I like the concept and I'd like to use the same thing if it does not bend the extension rod on the gauge. Please let us know. ;)
 
Dr.Jeff said:
That appears to be a TDC checker, with a spark plug type fitting on the end? I'll be interested to hear how it works with the SOHC's rather severely angled plug location (relative to the piston's movement). I like the concept and I'd like to use the same thing if it does not bend the extension rod on the gauge. Please let us know. ;)
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It’s tricky, it take s a bit of faffing about, round off the brass extension, it’s too square cut as shipped, get the piston to TDC as close as you can using a previously painted mark or the plastic cam housing markings, screw in adapter to cyl 4 and set for about 1 full deflection of the needle. Put car in forth gear, jack up passenger rear side of car (left hand drive), rotate wheel backward, note if the needle drops off or moves forward, don’t go to far as you say the angle is not good and you could bend the brass extension. Rotate the wheel forward and backward no more than a few degrees at a time, resetting the gauge as you go IE: lifting the centre pin on the top of the gauge.
 
Actually did it last week, but I installed the missing shift tunnel boot (shifter doesn't flop around anymore) and started poking around the top to see why it rattles so much.
 
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