Tool thread

Yep, the high flow connectors are next on my list. I agree that you don't need much in Vegas, in fact if you could squeeze water out of the air you could probably sell it...
 
Rotary tools.
In another thread the subject of rotary tools (e.g. "Dremel") came up. The general consensus seemed to reflect my personal opinion of them; they are very poor quality and do not last. Here was that discussion:
https://xwebforums.com/forum/index....r-tube-support-end-removal.38333/#post-341074

Well yesterday I had another rotary tool fail on me. This one was made by Black and Decker. Not that I think B&D are good products, but I'd had enough bad luck with the Dremel brand ones (3 failed) that I decided to try something else. So now I'm wondering if there are any good options.

In that other discussion Bjorn said he found a brand made there (Sweden) that has served him well. However that brand does not exist here. And Brian said he ended up buying a different style, the type with a remote motor and a flex shaft driving it: https://www.foredom.net/product-cat...-shaft-kits-sets/general-use-industrial-kits/

So I did a little searching online to see what options I could find. For the standard rotary tool another brand I see is Wen. Many years ago I found that brand to be rather subpar, so I don't have much faith it it. Another brand, which I've never heard of, was Gyros. The low price and general description does not suggest it is very good. I also found a different type of rotary tool that looks to be much more robust in general. It is known as a "cutting" rotary tool, like this (it won't allow me to copy the image so here is a link):
https://www.lowes.com/pd/DEWALT-2-Piece-1-Speed-Corded-Cutting-Rotary-Tool/50031426

I don't know if these 'cutting' tools allow the use of the same 1/8" tools (bits) as the other rotary tools use. And they are only a single speed (30,000 rpm...quite high). Therefore I'm not sure they could be used in the same manner as the dremel type. But they seem to be much more robust.

I also looked at some of the "flex shaft" tools like Brian bought. There are plenty to choose from and some appear to be very well built. Although for the types of uses I tend to do with a rotary tool I think it might be better (for me) to have a handheld (all one piece) unit rather than a two part flex shaft driven one. I may change my mind on this if nothing better comes up.

As I stated in the prior thread I do not use this type of tool very often, and when I do it is for very mild work. I have much larger tools for anything heavy. So you would think a typical rotary tool should last me awhile. But they do not. The features I'd prefer are like I said, a small overall size that can be easily manipulated in one hand, a variable speed, the ability to use any of the standard 1/8" bits (the ability to also use larger 1/4" bits would be very nice), corded is fine (I really don't need any more chargers and batteries hanging around, especially for something that very rarely gets used), and reasonably affordable (again, infrequent use does not warrant a high investment).

Any good suggestions?
 
On a similar subject as the above post (rotary tools), I often find uses for a larger more powerful rotary tool, but using a different type bit/tool than they are designed for. For example hand angle grinders are a favorite tool of mine. I do a lot of fabrication work and these are one of my most used pieces of equipment.
dewalt-angle-grinders-dwe402w-64_1000.jpg

However I find a lot of situations where I'd like to use a 1/4" shaft tool/bit rather than the threaded disks these grinders fit. I have a number of high speed air powered tools that allow the use of a 1/4" shaft tool, but there are times when it isn't practical to (or I simply don't want to) stretch out the compressor hose, so an electric driver would be nice. I have a electric die grinder that holds a 1/4" shaft burr, but it is rather large and a straight shaft configuration:
dewalt-die-grinders-dwe4887-64_1000.jpg

I'd like to have a 90 degree angled version of it, like I do with my air driven ones. Basically I want something like either of these, but electric and high speed (drill motors are not high speed, nor powerful enough):
steel-core-angle-grinders-40833-64_1000.jpg
416GZCT33TL._AC_UY218_ML3_.jpg


But I've never seen one. So I decided to make an adaptor to mount a keyed chuck onto the threaded shaft of a angle grinder. I have some parts that can be machined in the lathe to allow this, but haven't gotten around to doing it so no idea yet if it will work.
 
On a similar subject as the above post (rotary tools), I often find uses for a larger more powerful rotary tool, but using a different type bit/tool than they are designed for. For example hand angle grinders are a favorite tool of mine. I do a lot of fabrication work and these are one of my most used pieces of equipment.

I have that Dewalt AG - had it for more than 20 years at this point, maybe 25. Changed the brushes at least twice. I use it for everything. Can't be bothered to fiddle with the dremel unless I have no choice. I save the smaller/worn cut-off discs & use them for more 'delicate' work - like the glovebox cut-out for the radio I made.
 
I have 4 angle grinders. I keep different types of attachments on each one so I can quickly switch between them without having to stop and change things. Two of the four are inexpensive items from Harbor Freight. Both have had various issues; bolts came loose or stripped, lube ran dry, brushes worn. But I've managed to fix/modify them to correct those issues and they have served me much better than expected for the price. Of the other two, one is a Craftsman "Commercial Grade" that I've had for over 30 years without a single problem (even still has the original brushes) - despite a TON of abuse. I never knew Craftsman made 'commercial grade' tools, but found this one at a Sears Outlet store for a great price. The other one is a Makita that has been around for awhile also. But it has had minor issues, like a broken power switch (modified it to use a generic switch) and a faulty power cord (replaced with a basic cord). And it has a odd sized arbor, which makes for having to keep a different set of attachments. But it is smaller in overall size and a little slower than the others, so it works well in certain uses. These are one of the most used tools in my collection.

Cut-off wheels are a great use for angle grinders. I have several different ones that I've gathered from various trade shows (I love free samples). One neat feature about the Makita with the smaller arbor and slower speed is it allows me to use a large diameter cut-off wheel (designed for the big heavy grinders). That works really well for some things.

Another attachment that I use often is wire brush wheels of different styles. Makes fast work of removing rust, paint, corrosion, etc.
 
Bernice posted some interesting stuff on tools a few years ago. She operates in a very wide circle of technology and has had experience with many brands of tools that are not "visible" to the average American shade tree mechanic. Some Euro and Asian stuff that looks pretty well made.
 
This morning I had a thought regarding those little rotary tools (e.g. Dremel). As we've discussed previously they tend to be very unreliable and short lived. Although I rarely use them, they are quite handly is particular applications. But I haven't found any decent ones available in the US.

What occured to me is a couple of the air driven tools that I have (like the reference I made in post #23 above) came with replacement/interchangeable collets for 1/8" arbors. Therefore they should be able to mount any of the small rotary type ("Dremel") bits (attachment tools). Being air driven means the speed can easily be varied and they are capable of very high speeds (even greater than the electric rotary tools). The draw back is having a air hose connected may make them less manageable for use in tight places or with some small applications. However I also have a short "whip" hose (very flexible air line) that could be attached to the tool, making it a bit more maneuverable. Not really sure how the arrangement would work out, maybe better for some uses than others.

I'll have to experiment with this idea. But if it works then it's a much better option than buying yet another poor quality roto tool.
 
Why didn't I think of this a long time ago?

I tried the idea described in my last post, to use "Dremel" type attachments on a pneumatic die grinder air tool. First, here are examples of the type of tools I'm referring to:
pdg-_thumbnail.jpg


They come in a large array of configurations, many of which are not shown in that pic. For the most part they use a standardized 1/4" "callet" to attach various cutting bits, etc. A couple of the tools I have came with a second 1/8" callet, which I've never thought to use for anything. So I decided to swap to the smaller callet and see if the assortment of rotary (Dremel) attachments would work. Here are pics of what I'm talking about:

The callet is secured into the end of the tool by the same threaded collar that locks the bits in place...
014.JPG

015.JPG


They simply slide in and out of the tool.

Here are the smaller 1/8" and standard 1/4" callets...
016.JPG


I'm sure replacement 1/8" callets are readily available for very little money. And since they are a universal fit you really only need one to use with any of the air tools you might already have. Frankly you could buy a new pneumatic tool for the price of a Dremel these days.

By simply swapping the callets, you can mount any of the little rotary attachments (bits) to the pneumatic tool...
013.JPG


I gave it a try and it works well. The speed of the tool is controlled by the air flow. So you can regulate the air pressure or use the 'trigger' on the tool to adjust the speed. By limiting the regulator pressure a bit, the maximum speed is kept to a safe level for these small bits - regardless of trigger position. And by toggling the trigger position the speed can be varied on the fly. This makes the speed even more variable than with the adjustable-speed Dremels. The overall pneumatic tool size is about the same as a Dremel. However the air hose is more restrictive that the power cord on a Dremel. And certainly more than a "cordless" Dremel (which I prefer not to use simply because I already have way too many rechargeable tools around my shop - read as 'lots of chargers' everywhere). I haven't tried the "whip" hose yet to see how much more maneuverable that makes it. The whip is a very flexible, lightweight section of air hose with a "swivel" on the end:
image_9028.jpg

Another thing about the pneumatic tool is the trigger needs to be held while using the tool. One of the common benefits of a Dremel is the ability to do very fine work in tight places. That often requires some 'finesse' with holding the tool. In the case of the pneumatic tool I suppose the trigger could by tied down (i.e. a zip tie) and the speed controlled solely by air pressure. Perhaps a small regulator or control valve at the other end of the whip hose might be good.

Considering the way array of pneumatic die grinders available, this concept will provide a much larger choice of configurations than a Dremel can. I will use this setup in the future to see how it compares to using a Dremel. But it would be a great alternative if it works out. Why didn't I think of it before?
 
My old Dremel uses collets but the fingers on them are quite fragile. They were hard to find 20+ years ago so I'm treating them very gently.
 
Now I'm content with using a pneumatic tool with a 1/8" collet as a "Dremel" replacement. However yesterday I had to go to the hardware store (first time in a while to get out), and noticed at least one of the "roto" tools (not "rotary", but like the sample shown below) has optional collets that can be installed to drive various attachments. Looked like 1/8" and 1/4" were included. The tool has approximately 5 amps (compared to 1 or 2 for the Dremels) and a rather robust body/motor assembly. So it should be a decent replacement to use instead of a Dremel type tool. The drawbacks compared to a Dremel are that it might be too big (physically) to use in some applications, and the cost (around $70).

w-rbss35510_1.jpg
 
I've never used the cyclone separator, I have built a couple separators using a thein baffle for my wood working dust collection system. Those cyclones are so cheap I may just order one instead of building my own.
Hey Brian, I decided to order one of those inexpensive Cyclones from China. It arrived today and it appears to be very decent quality, design, size, etc. Even includes a little instruction book. I haven't done anything more than open the package yet, but it certainly seems to be worth the low cost. We'll see how it performs once I get it installed on the blast cabinet. I'll have to rework it from a 'pressure' cabinet to a 'vacuum' one. But now that we are touching the triple digit temps here I'll have to discontinue all outside work anyway, so I can get back to this project (also got a "metering valve" to try).
 
Floor jacks. Very useful in many sizes. I just got the big orange one a few weeks ago. Lifts to 24" and is very low profile. Works fine for the X, but I really got it so I wouldn't need to put blocks on my smaller jacks when trying to work on my Honda Pilot. Apparently I am getting more nervous, err, I mean safety conscious, in my old age. Those blocks have started looking really sketchy to me the last year or so. :eek::D
20200304_153548.jpg
 
Floor jacks. Very useful in many sizes. I just got the big orange one a few weeks ago. Lifts to 24" and is very low profile. Works fine for the X, but I really got it so I wouldn't need to put blocks on my smaller jacks when trying to work on my Honda Pilot. Apparently I am getting more nervous, err, I mean safety conscious, in my old age. Those blocks have started looking really sketchy to me the last year or so. :eek::D
View attachment 31131
Maybe you should buy a fourth one. Then you will not need jacstand, only floor jacks at each corner. :D
 
I just got the big orange one a few weeks ago. Lifts to 24" and is very low profile.
I've been giving that particular jack some thought. I put my X's on very tall vehicle work stands to have plenty of working room underneath. In order to get the car that high I have to do the same as you, put blocks on a floor jack. That low-profile high-lift jack should just fit under my lowered X's and get them just high enough for those stands (I think). But I already have several other floor jacks, making it a bit difficult to justify buying yet another one. So instead I decided to make a better block; I welded some scrap sections of large heavy wall square tubing onto a pad that fits in place of the jack's normal pad. That makes it secure to the jack and no fumbling with loose wood blocks. It's not ideal, I'd still like to have the jack you got. But my current living situation is temporary so I'll have to move everything when things here are done. And the last thing I'll need is more large heavy shop equipment to move.
 
But my current living situation is temporary
Everything is temporary Dr Jeff. This is real life, so live it well, no one gets out alive. :D

I watched the HF ads for months till the price came down recently. I really should have bought it last fall.
 
I watched the HF ads for months till the price came down recently.
Ya, they exclude jacks from most of the discounts and rarely reduce the price for any other than the most basic model (i.e. not this one). I did see a special 25% (I think that was the %) off coupon that said for any (no exceptions) one item over $50, I guess that might have been good for it. But I did not check the details having already decided not to get it.
 
I have that some high lift jack, it is a heavy beasty. Bought it to be able to lift the X and the Miata, both are extremely low. I also have the aluminum jack to the side. I did have a 3 ton Sears jack much like the one in the middle but it died very early on, well before I ever expected it to. Sears, don’t miss it much.

I also bought some RV jacks to lift the X 24” clear do the clutch and transmission replacement which I hope to have come up soon as I am working half time and the weather is getting warmer (as in we are still getting snow flurries). Those four scissor jacks and four extended heavy jack stands should hold the little bugger stably.
 
I did have a 3 ton Sears jack much like the one in the middle but it died very early on
I gave my dad that Sears jack in 1974 for father's day. I got it when he stopped working on his cars. Probably American made back then. Still working well.
 
I still have my Sears 3ton jack that my (ex) brother-in-law bought for my birthday in 1984 :D - the only problem with it is the return psring for the lever broke, so I have to be careful where it's (the lever) pointed - if I'm using it inbetween two cars. I bought an HF low profile 3ton a few years back, solely because the Sears is too tall to fit under the X until I get one side up.
 
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