Clutch master problems

Bernice,

What would you recommend as a "portabe" bubble flaring tool? Last time I had to do some tube flaring, it was 25 years ago and it was probably a double flare tool.
 
Rupunzell said:
Bubble flares are easy to make with the proper tool. The bubble flare is made in a single stroke. The go-to flaring tool is this Facom# 347 but it is a bench only flaring tool.

Double flares are more difficult to make accurately as there are two flaring operations involved and they must hold a degree of alignment for it to seal and function properly. Not a fan of double flare tubing as there is an increased chance of cracked-fractured tubing where the flare end folds over. Keep in mind the 45 degree SAE double flare was invented about 1930 when tubing technology was still developing. Problems with the 45 degree SAE double flare range from that potential to hide cracked flare end fold over, small sealing area, limited re-sealing cycles and ... Yet this inferior tube flare end continues to this day :(

In car, have bubble flaring tools that can work in confined spaces like the clutch tubing in the exxe. That is the flaring tool used to replace the M12 tube nut and bubble flare the cut end of the tube. That would be the loaner tool.


Bernice
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Like I said, she has all the cool tools. :)
 
What is NOT recommended is the Snap-On metric bubble flaring tool set (quite certain it is made for SN by Eastman Imperial or similar). It is WAY over priced, works sort of OK, not that well made. Got this many years ago and less than pleased with it. The tube block is metric only (6mm, 8mm, 10mm) with the exception of 3/16" OD for brake lines. To deal with inch sized tubing for bubble flares, got a far lower cost OTC 45 degree double flare set, then modified the tube holding block to work with the Snap-On bubble flare dies. Tube block thickness is the same between Snap-On and OTC allowing using the flaring yokes to be interchanged. This is the portable/loaner flaring tool.

There are many alternatives today that are lower cost and likely do a equal or better job of making bubble flares as they are SO common in the automotive industry. Suggest one of the made in Taiwan bubble flaring tool kit often are of good cost-vs- performance -vs- durability.

Alternatively since this is a clutch tube with lower operating pressure than a brake system, it is do-able to apply part one of a 45 degree SAE double flare on the tube end. This is close enough to work as a bubble flare for a clutch system... and there are lots of these flaring tools out there for not a lot of $.

The really good bubble flaring tools like the Facom 347 is $$$, but work very well, durable and makes nice flares. For 37 degree AN / JIC single flares, Parker hand held flaring tool that uses a hammer to drive the flaring pin. These have been around since WW-II, have three of them as they were very low cost and plentiful on eBay years ago. Since then the word got out and they have become sought after for being a very good 37 degree flaring tool that simply does what needs to be done. Most of the tubing done here is copper-nickel alloy (nice to work with and available), 3003 aluminum or seamless steel which is at times what is available for metric tubing. Have done soft stainless steel seamless tubing, but it is mode difficult to work with.


Bernice


DanielForest said:
Bernice,

What would you recommend as a "portabe" bubble flaring tool? Last time I had to do some tube flaring, it was 25 years ago and it was probably a double flare tool.
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Update: Bernice was dead on with the line size. It is absolutely 1/4 inch line. I did use a compression splice where I could easily join the line. Imperative that the line be cleaned of the plastic coat where it will be joined: it’s that tight a fit! Going through the bleed process now.
 
As previously posted, do NOT use a compression fitting, it will fail.

The OEM steel lines are polymer coated. This is not what compression fittings are designed to be used with. Add to this, compression fittings are a really bad idea for hydraulic systems.

Fix it properly, as if your life depends on it, if the connection fails, you die.


Bernice

JDExSquid said:
Update: Bernice was dead on with the line size. It is absolutely 1/4 inch line. I did use a compression splice where I could easily join the line. Imperative that the line be cleaned of the plastic coat where it will be joined: it’s that tight a fit! Going through the bleed process now.
Click to expand...
 
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