What did you do to your X1/9 today ?

kmead said:
That’s cool, are they mounted in the overriders? Are they fiberglass with a void inside?

Separate switch I presume? (No other lights on)
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They are cheap projectors intended to be foam taped to your door cards with a little magnet turning them on and off.

I used some metal strapping inside a section of heater hose to form hangers that fit over my MWB repro overrides. Ugly, but effective. And since it's dark you can't see the ugliness. :)

They also turn off after a couple minutes, so you have turn them on again.
 
After I installed my "new" (it sat on a shelf for a few years) BobG radiator in the 86X, it leaked a bit, then stopped. The last few weeks I would find a significant puddle the next morning after a drive. Stopped by a buddies house for a beer the other day and he sent me a picture of a puddle I left on his driveway. I decided to find out what was up. The leak was on the opposite end from the bleeder. I think I found it. The O-ring on the drain plug had become a C-ring. :)
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I replaced it and it seems fine this morning.
 
Broke BART today, he’s been running a bit hot recently and I noticed the top half of the rad was cold, so bled the air out but upon retightening the bleed it kept rotating, now I can’t tighten it or undo it it just turns around. Moral: don’t bleed the car when it’s up to temp! It’s probably time I got the rad re-cored anyway...
 
NEG said:
Broke BART today, he’s been running a bit hot recently and I noticed the top half of the rad was cold, so bled the air out but upon retightening the bleed it kept rotating, now I can’t tighten it or undo it it just turns around. Moral: don’t bleed the car when it’s up to temp! It’s probably time I got the rad re-cored anyway...
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If you have the original radiator, then the bleed screw bung is soldered in place. Quite likely this solder joint gave up, which is easy to fix. Particularly if you are taking the radiator to a shop to get rodded or recored.
 
Thanks ng, I plan to remove it tomorrow and run it down to my local rad repair shop by the end of the week.
 
Dropped it of at the rad specialist, tbh it looks like it’s been recored previously but I’ve asked it to be done again for peace of mind



 
Acquired another project yesterday. Need to spend some time auditing the rust and damage and see what I want to do with it.
Some previous rust repairs have been done on it (new floors etc) but the repair work wasn't done very well.
 

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fiatfactory said:
Lemons racer air inlet ducting and air filter box.

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Fuel filler and overflow / splash tray is next.

SteveC
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Steve, In an another thread you mentionned the air box coming from a Fiat Spyder. Did that one came from a Fiat Spyder? And if so, form which years. Is that the Spider we had in North America? EFI would mean a 1981 to 1984. I'm interested in that model to build myself an air box for my DCOE in the rear trunk. Thanks!
 
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DanielForest said:
Steve, In an another thread you mentionned the air box coming from a Fiat Spyder. Did that one came from a Fiat Spyder? And if so, form which years. Is that the Spider we had in North America? EFI would mean a 1981 to 1984. I'm interested in that model to build myself an air box for my DCOE in the rear trunk. Thanks!
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No,

I said it came from an EFI Fiat, it's actually from a 1983 Fiat Argenta 120IE if that means anything to you... and I said it probably is similar to a Fiat spyder, and yes 1980 I think was the first year of fuel injection - 1985.5 Fiat Spyder are efi in North America.

SteveC
 
After work today I grabbed a spare stripped 1500 block, and bolted a stripped trans casing to the end of it, a sump to the bottom of it, and a snail mount that I'd rebushed on the front of it. Then I lifted it into the lemons racer for a trial fit / test fits of a few parts...happy with the results so far.

Now I can do trial fit up of the fuel lines/oil cooling lines/water piping/air inlet/breather piping and catchtank/trans cooler pump & hoses/scatter shield/fourth engine mount.
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SteveC
 
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