RED X19

Alternator that got for 20$ doesn’t work either 😂
Bought new voltage regulator for another 20€
Still nothing.
Tomorrow will benchtest first alternator with new voltage regulator.

So far I am 50€ from absolutely new alternator 🤦🏻‍♀️ I should have bought it at first place.

If I count in 65€ that I spent in winter when bought first “good used” alternator 😂 then I already am throwing money into garbage 🙋‍♂️
 
Also I suspect that there isn’t enough oil pressure in system or a few thing are dying in the engine, very small rattling can be heard at idle.

Also today made a call to “car and road safety department”, there is absolutely no street legal way to put a body kit on a car from fiberglass. Fenders flares are legal but even if they would do a damage to a person in accident, then no insurance will help.

Does anyone make steel dallara kit? 😅
 
Sad to hear about the alternators. Are there electrical repair shops there that can rebuild one? That way you can spend even more money on the used ones. :rolleyes:
 
When I depress clutch there is a sound like would be an air leak from pneumatic system. Could it be because of new clutch and resurfaced flywheel? Or something want to tell me that is going to broke ?
 
Make sure it isn't from a hydraulic leak somewhere.
Does it feel like there is trapped air - needs to be bled?
Where does the sound seem to come from, by the pedals or back at the clutch?
 
Make sure it isn't from a hydraulic leak somewhere.
Does it feel like there is trapped air - needs to be bled?
Where does the sound seem to come from, by the pedals or back at the clutch?
sound is from the engine bay.

now there is not a droplet of any liquid leak, at least so far.
could new bearing make that weird sound?

When will got new alternator will ask colleague to listen from where exactly it comes
 
A old worn out throwout bearing can make a 'singing' or 'squealing' noise. A new one shouldn't.

If it only happens when you push in the clutch, and it is coming from the engine area, then it makes sense that it's likely to be related to the clutch. Can you tell if it happens as soon as you begin to push (lightly) the clutch pedal, or only after the pedal is fully pushed in all the way?
 
That sound is only when I depress clutch.

Final drive from UT feels much better with lighter flywheel.

Don’t know why but gearbox sounds and feels and changes gears much better now- I didn’t do anything :D just changed final drive.

Engine sound, pops, bangs and flames also are better.

Only one thing is definitely not better, 5th gear is whining 🤷‍♂️ But 4th is like 5th previously.

Looks that thermostat has been stuck in opened position.

Jeff 😅
Returned voltage regulator at shop, got back 20€
And I gave alternator for repair.
They repaired it for 45€ - From 3 alternators made one working.

You know what is funny, it still wasn’t working. Because I hadn’t connected wire from the alternator to starter motor 😂

So I suspect that both alternators were actually working, and paid 45€ to get one in unworkable condition 👌🏼🤦🏻‍♀️😅
 
Sorry to hear about the alternator problem being only a loose wire. We've all done things like that at some time. Not sure if you ever got this TV show over there, but to quote Sterling Archer, "if you learned something from it then it wasn't a mistake".
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I suspect the 5th gear noise is from the mix of used parts (I think that's what was done). Gears tend to develop a "wear pattern" over time and when others are put together that pattern does not match exactly, so they make noise. If the noise isn't too severe it may not be too much of an issue - other than hearing the sound. But if it really sounds like something is wrong then it will just get worse.

That clutch sound is odd. Being a new throw out bearing and clutch it shouldn't do that. Possibly a defective bearing? It's a big job, but maybe pull back the transmission and install a old bearing temporarily just to see if the noise goes away.
 
That whining noise becomes smaller or I hear it less.
I will live with that whistling when clutch has been depressed till it disappears or breaks :D

Throttle position sensor started to live it's own life yesterday. what will be next :D
crankshaft sensor isn't new ...
 
Changed TPS, it appeared that old one was ok, something was hitting somehow on the bonnet and that’s why I thought so, I hope :D . Took of that heat shield and no so far everything is good.

Thermostat also most likely was ok,
Didn’t test new one in boiling water.
But something is wrong and can’t understand what and why.

IF thermostat works correctly is there possibility that coolant always flows through radiator?
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Is that cooling system and thermostat design like the X1/9 with a "bypass" circuit? As it opens on one side it is closing the other, and vice versa. So coolant is always flowing somewhere. But I'm not familiar with your particular system to know how much will continue to flow through the radiator at all times.
 
No, thermostat opens only a route to radiator (large circuit). While it’s closed it can flow out through small opening that is always open (small circuit).
While driving it is 83 or 84 C steady no matter what. Normally I wouldn’t care about this :D but that affects ECU - that is temperature that ECU reads..
 
Installed new alternator.
At first battery bulb still didn’t came on when it should :D
Checked the bulb again- still good.
Adjusted clamps in bulbs holder just in case.
It worked, because of adjusting or what don’t know.
But after that it didn’t go off. Sometimes did, then again didn’t and so on.
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Luckily it was getting darker outside and noticed that oil pressure light and boost gauge background light were shining a bit with ignition off together with battery light.

Disconnected boost gauge wires and there was no more problems on the way home.

I think I have now more alternators than x19 will ever see :D

Got some replacement seats for my VW polo. So now have no excuses to installing Recaros from it into X19 :)
 
So was the wiring for the boost gauge screwing up the other lights?

VW Recaros are great seats. I have a set in my VW Caddy and love them - some of the best seats I've ever had.
 
Yes it looks like the boost gauge was the issue.

Took of rails from X19 seats.

Will make adapters to attach them to recaros.

Would 4pcs M6, grade 12 bolts to attach each rail to adapter would be OK?
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Yes it looks like the boost gauge was the issue.

Took of rails from X19 seats.

Will make adapters to attach them to recaros.

Would 4pcs M6, grade 12 bolts to attach each rail to adapter would be OK?
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I did the same thing for some aftermarket seats; used the X's rails and made adapters to fit the new seats. There are two types of X seat rails. One type is welded to the floor pan and the other type bolts to the floor pan. I decided to use the later ones that bolt in, but install them on a earlier car that had the weld in type. The idea was to cut out the old ones and make sheet metal patches where they were, then bolt the new ones in. However it wasn't so easy. The two floors are completely different shapes and contours, so it was a huge task to make patches that would fill the holes and locate the new rails correctly.

Those bolts will be more than enough. ;)
 
Made first set of adapters.
They was as low as could make, but couldn’t sit in the seat without leaning head.

Then made another two sets 12mm lower. Tried to take out bottom bolster- perfect- holds body as bucket seat, will make original one thinner.

If anyone considers to use same seat from vw - can ask me for dwg file to make adapters.

They are very tight fit into cabin.

Will have to make backrest adjustment handle thinner, so it doesn’t hit inner sill.

Also bent bottom side construction for bolsters narrower by ~2cm.

I think this will turn out excellent :)

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