removing my engine mount and timing belt

Kevin Cozzo

True Classic
so I found a great post here from one of you fellas removing the snail mount, and now I can't fricken find it- I'm taking a break from the Texas heat and dinner, and wondering if someone can find it- tried snail mount motor mount, but no...I know I can weather the storm but be nice to have for my old brain

Also, doing the timing belt because- why not, since I got the cover off...I have a timing mark on the actual cog gear for the crank, but can see with my crap eyes where it might line up- is it straight up?
 
So I just did this for the first time last night -admittedly without following a guide so I'm not sure if there's other things to look out for that I'm not aware of.

If the water pump and/or its pulley do not interfere then it's very straightforward (I don't know from experience as I have neither). Start by removing the 17mm nut from the snail mount bushing, then jack the engine up by the oil pan (using a block of wood to distribute the load) until there is no force on the upper bolt, and then simply remove the 3 bolts that mount it to the engine.

They are easiest to reach from the wheel well. The two lowers (either 16 or 17mm) are quite easy to deal with if you have a 3/8 drive ratchet. The upper bolt is kind of in a tough spot, as the mount shape prevents an average ratchet from lining up properly, and there is very little room to use an extension as the body is very close in that area. I ended up using a wrench.

In order to give your ratchet (if you use one) enough travel, it may be beneficial to entirely remove the outer portion of the split crank pulley.

Be mindful of the timing belt tensioner spring as well, as it applies a backwards force on the motor mount bracket. Just something to be aware of. I would do the upper first so you are not fighting the timing belt tensioner spring with the hardest to reach bolt.


Edit: you found the guide while I was typing that but hopefully it is of some use.
 
Edit: you found the guide while I was typing that but hopefully it is of some use.
yeah, but thanks...still curious about that timing mark...guess I will get my little snake cam out to see timing marks on flywheel- I could never get my fat head down there close enough to see those
 
surprise! coolant! I expected that when undoing the timing bearing, but totally forgot about the mount bolts...guess it's been a while. Third bolt up under the mount is a real joy!
 
surprise! coolant! I expected that when undoing the timing bearing, but totally forgot about the mount bolts...guess it's been a while. Third bolt up under the mount is a real joy!
Oh that's normal? I was actually going to make a thread about that because I was pretty alarmed when coolant started dripping out the block!

I assume thread sealant should be used on the threads when reinstalling?
 
yeah, it's well known that metal plate goes to a water jacket- I should have remembered- I actually had anti sieze goop on it, but it's been holding water- hoping I can get that top bolt back in...last time I did this, in the car, I was 50lbs lighter, and didn't have friggen arthritus- my fingers are like sausages now! lol
The hole for my belt spring was too small also, had to hone it out
 
Some blocks are different, where the timing belt tensioner stud does not go all the way through. It is a blind hole in the block so there won't be any coolant leaking when you loosen it.

For the timing belt/drives position refer to the excellent write-up in the Wiki:
 
glad I got a factory manual that doesn't have this info- lol

My next question is bolt length for snail mount-the top bolt which is extremely a a pain is 50 mm, the two lower ones 35mm....Idon't know if these are original, and would like the top one to be shorter, as it almost bottoms out when put in by itself- I have a box of fiat bolts, but don't want something that ain't gonna hold
 
the secret to replacing that dreaded top bolt- the 1/4 drive with a adapter to a 17mm socket, and a wobble extension- engine fully jacked up high...
hopefully you are replacing the lower mount at that time, because that f**** was at about a 45 degree angle- lol
My Haynes manual showed the top mounting bolt in the snail mount and indeed it sticks out about an inch, almost the full capacity of it's threads into the block...
I decided to strengthen up my snail mount, so I bought some polyurethane mix, and filled in the voids, then drilled some holes in it....used tin can ends for molds....wish I had more pics- I made the poly extend out on the sides, hopefully to keep it from coming apart in a year like the last one. I did end up shaving some off to get it in the body mount...not pretty, but how pretty can a motor mount be?

m2.jpg


m1.jpg

m3.jpg
 
and it leaks...tightened down on the mount bolts some more, still leaks...and I put sealant on the bolts, that originally only had anti sieze on them- lol throw tools yell F*** a few times and call it a day...tear it all down again tomorrow while it's still fresh in my back, er I mean mind...guess I'll need some gasket paper for that metal plate....really has me baffled
 
and it leaks...tightened down on the mount bolts some more, still leaks...and I put sealant on the bolts, that originally only had anti sieze on them- lol throw tools yell F*** a few times and call it a day...tear it all down again tomorrow while it's still fresh in my back, er I mean mind...guess I'll need some gasket paper for that metal plate....really has me baffled

Damn, sorry to hear man...that sucks. What type of sealant did you use?
 
well, new mount was same as old one...hmmm, pulled off that water jacket plate, and it was glued to the block pretty good, but nothing for a sealer between the gasket and the plate. Ironically some of the gasket paper tore, made a new gasket, and coated it with hylomar, and that fixed it. Thinking when I removed the m mount, I might have put weight on it while the bolts were loose. During all this I found an open vacuum port on one of my carbs, and my exhaust to header connector leaking...sounds better now, but runs kinda funny, think I need to re-synch the carbs, because I think that vacuum plug has been missing all the while, lol
 
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