1.3 4 sp to 1.5 5 sp swap

There are differences between the axles 4spd to 5spd. That means you need different axles, and uprights (you can keep the struts). The 5spd trans is also longer, meaning you may have to clearance the drivers side frame rail. (or attack it with BFH). To mount the '74 exhuast you'll need to remove some studs from the 4spd trans and transfer them to the 5spd. The drivers side lower A arm is also different, but you should be able to use the 4spd A arm if needed.
The 1500 block is a bit taller than the 1300 so the '74 exhaust has to be modified a bit to work right.
If you have a donor X with the 1500/5spd it's a very straight forward swap. If you can, use the intake/carb from the 1300, and use the '74 exhaust manifold too. That means modifying the '74 exhaust mounts slightly. And using the '74 trans mount. The oil pressure sending unit can be mounted to the 1500 block by drilling and tapping the corresponding boss, or it can be sandwiched into the idiot light port.
I suggest you use the 1500 dist/ignition, it should wire up easily.
That's about it, as long as you're going to use a carb. If your 1500 is FI, it's not much harder to do (you have to mount the AFM and add a wire or two). The key is having a donor car to get the parts you need. :)
 
Forgot to add, the alternators are different. The '74 alternator could be swapped over, or the 1500 alt could be used if wired up correctly (bypass the external regulator). The 1500 alternator has a higher output.
Again, good to have a donor car to look at to get it right.
 
your 1500 is FI, it's not much harder to do (you have to mount the AFM and add a wire or two).
Note to clarify my post: I am talking about going FI. If you use a carb you can probably swap the 1300 valve cover/linkage onto the 1500 and stick with the 1300 pedal/cable

The 1500 accel pedal, accel cable and the guide tube in the tunnel are all different starting in the 79 model year. If you have a donor you will have the parts. You will need to shorten the guide tube to fit the new cable and come up with a way to join the cable to the shortened tube. When you shorten the tube you have to cut off the flared end that the cable's ferrule slides into and allows the c-clip retainer to be installed.

Here is a link to my saga with the pedal/cable.
 
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There are differences between the axles 4spd to 5spd. That means you need different axles, and uprights (you can keep the struts). The 5spd trans is also longer, meaning you may have to clearance the drivers side frame rail. (or attack it with BFH). To mount the '74 exhuast you'll need to remove some studs from the 4spd trans and transfer them to the 5spd. The drivers side lower A arm is also different, but you should be able to use the 4spd A arm if needed.
The 1500 block is a bit taller than the 1300 so the '74 exhaust has to be modified a bit to work right.
If you have a donor X with the 1500/5spd it's a very straight forward swap. If you can, use the intake/carb from the 1300, and use the '74 exhaust manifold too. That means modifying the '74 exhaust mounts slightly. And using the '74 trans mount. The oil pressure sending unit can be mounted to the 1500 block by drilling and tapping the corresponding boss, or it can be sandwiched into the idiot light port.
I suggest you use the 1500 dist/ignition, it should wire up easily.
That's about it, as long as you're going to use a carb. If your 1500 is FI, it's not much harder to do (you have to mount the AFM and add a wire or two). The key is having a donor car to get the parts you need. :)
You will also want to use the 1500 longitudinal engine / trans support and also the 1500 shifter and shift tube....
 
And you either have to modify your four speed shifter to accommodate the 5th forward gear, or swap in a 5 speed shifter.
 
And the shifter to transaxle rod is different. There were two versions of the 5 sp coupler along with this difference.

Bernice
 
Also correct as just discovered performing the same swap.

 
This is my '74. It has had a 1500 in it but in this photo its a 1300 mated to a 5 speed.

track032.JPG


You will want the '77/'78 engine cover to provide some extra vertical clearance for the taller 1500, assuming you use whatever intake setup comes from your donor car. The throttle cable, throttle pedal and cable housing are different. Adapting them is pretty easy.

As noted above you'll need the 5 speed uprights (hub carriers), CV axles, shift lever and linkage. The clutch slave cylinder can be used by you'll need the 5 speed's mounting bracket. You will also want to use the 5 speed starter.

Also as noted above, you'll want to trim the left side A-arm to clear the end cap of the transmission.
 
You will also likely need to add a spacer between the existing exhaust and the manifold to compensate for the taller deck height of the 1500.

Quite a list :)
 
You will also likely need to add a spacer between the existing exhaust and the manifold to compensate for the taller deck height of the 1500.

Quite a list :)

I never used the OE exhaust so I never had to do this. My '74 pictured above, had a modified IAP header, dual 40 DCNFs, and a bunch of other fun stuff.

Some of you may remember the yellow '74 I built. It had a complete 1500/5 speed swap, also with Dual 40s, cam, header, etc... Hot rod '74s are great fun because they are so light. :)
 
I made the same mod on my 1300 78 car. I kept my original shifter and linkage. It just means you have to push down same as reverse to go into fifth. You need a 1500 flywheel/clutch, starter, axles/hubs as noted. I also kept my original swing arm and just bent it a bit similar to pic above. I have an old aftr mkt exhaust so didnt have any issues there. I also used my existing 1300 struts. The extra gear does make for nicer highway cruising. I have dual carbs and a 35/75 cam so not sure how it would work with a stock 1300 motor but mine pulls along in 5th no problem.
 
Note to clarify my post: I am talking about going FI. If you use a carb you can probably swap the 1300 valve cover/linkage onto the 1500 and stick with the 1300 pedal/cable

The 1500 accel pedal, accel cable and the guide tube in the tunnel are all different starting in the 79 model year. If you have a donor you will have the parts. You will need to shorten the guide tube to fit the new cable and come up with a way to join the cable to the shortened tube. When you shorten the tube you have to cut off the flared end that the cable's ferrule slides into and allows the c-clip retainer to be installed.

Here is a link to my saga with the pedal/cable.
Jim,
You're correct. Swapping out the 1300 accelerator pedal and cable is a PITA. I did it though, but it's not easy.
However with the 1300 still in the car, you can simply disconnect the carb linkage rod, unscrew the valve cover off of the cam carrier, then swing the valve cover off the 1300 engine and to the side. (You don't even have to disconnect the throttle cable.) Then once the 1500 is in place, simply swap the 1500 valve cover with the 1300 valve cover. Connect the carb linkage rod, and tighten down the valve cover nuts and you're good to go. You might not even have to replace the gasket, or adjust the carb linkage rod (if you're lucky). True, you don't get the (IMHO better) 1500 accelerator pedal/linkage, but the 1300 set-up works pretty good too.
 
Jim,
You're correct. Swapping out the 1300 accelerator pedal and cable is a PITA. I did it though, but it's not easy.
However with the 1300 still in the car, you can simply disconnect the carb linkage rod, unscrew the valve cover off of the cam carrier, then swing the valve cover off the 1300 engine and to the side. (You don't even have to disconnect the throttle cable.) Then once the 1500 is in place, simply swap the 1500 valve cover with the 1300 valve cover. Connect the carb linkage rod, and tighten down the valve cover nuts and you're good to go. You might not even have to replace the gasket, or adjust the carb linkage rod (if you're lucky). True, you don't get the (IMHO better) 1500 accelerator pedal/linkage, but the 1300 set-up works pretty good too.

Mike,

Are you saying I could have done this and it would work with the FI linkage? Or are you talking about sticking with a carb for the 1500? I asked about reusing the carb set up for FI, but I was advised that I HAD to replace the pedal and cable to go FI.

It's water under the bridge now, but this issue is the reason the 78 project stalled. I was making good progress until I ran into the accel gear mismatch issue. I got the parts and took the interior out, then found that the tube was another issue. Right there I hit my limit of pains in the ass. I said F this and shoved it in the corner. Probably should have sold the car to someone more competent back then. It still sits in the corner waiting for me to get back to it. I think the "project" is in its 10th year. :(
 
Jim,
You're correct. Swapping out the 1300 accelerator pedal and cable is a PITA. I did it though, but it's not easy.
However with the 1300 still in the car, you can simply disconnect the carb linkage rod, unscrew the valve cover off of the cam carrier, then swing the valve cover off the 1300 engine and to the side. (You don't even have to disconnect the throttle cable.) Then once the 1500 is in place, simply swap the 1500 valve cover with the 1300 valve cover. Connect the carb linkage rod, and tighten down the valve cover nuts and you're good to go. You might not even have to replace the gasket, or adjust the carb linkage rod (if you're lucky). True, you don't get the (IMHO better) 1500 accelerator pedal/linkage, but the 1300 set-up works pretty good too.
I did the same thing when I swapped my '74 1300 for a '79 1500. The 79s had a different linkage setup with a different valve cover. I just swapped the valve covers not knowing anything about the change they made at the pedal. Works fine.

Speaking of the accelerator pedal: I remember that there was a recall early on for the 74 pedal. The problem was that the plastic piece that holds the pedal to the side of the tunnel would break. Mine broke and I replaced it. Months later, the recall replaced it with a beefier assembly. I don't know whether or not it is the same as the ones used in the later models.
 
Mike,

Are you saying I could have done this and it would work with the FI linkage? Or are you talking about sticking with a carb for the 1500? I asked about reusing the carb set up for FI, but I was advised that I HAD to replace the pedal and cable to go FI.

It's water under the bridge now, but this issue is the reason the 78 project stalled. I was making good progress until I ran into the accel gear mismatch issue. I got the parts and took the interior out, then found that the tube was another issue. Right there I hit my limit of pains in the ass. I said F this and shoved it in the corner. Probably should have sold the car to someone more competent back then. It still sits in the corner waiting for me to get back to it. I think the "project" is in its 10th year. :(

The 1500 accel pedal, accel cable and the guide tube in the tunnel are all different starting in the 79 model year. If you have a donor you will have the parts. You will need to shorten the guide tube to fit the new cable and come up with a way to join the cable to the shortened tube. When you shorten the tube you have to cut off the flared end that the cable's ferrule slides into and allows the c-clip retainer to be installed.

Here is a link to my saga with the pedal/cable.
[/QUOTE]
Hate to break it to you Jim, but it's pretty easy to adapt the 1300 valve cover/linkage to work with the 1500 FI set-up.
This is the early 1300 carb linkage. The end on the right (has the linkage rod connected to the carb) that's important.
View attachment 36450
Here's the linkage on the FI valve cover (I think this is better).
20200916_170257.jpg

The linkage part that has the ball on it is different between the two. Here's a pic with the two side by side. Note the difference between the two parts. The carb part is turned around.
20200916_170623_LI.jpg

This is how the FI part would be adapted to the carb linkage.
20200916_171908.jpg

This is how the carb part fits.
20200916_171855.jpg

Here they are side by side.
20200916_171933_LI.jpg

To use the 1300/carb linkage with FI, just swap the FI linkage part onto the linkage in place of the carb part. It's as simple as that. In a pinch the carb part can be turned around and used (but why do that when you have the correct FI part???)

Changing the '74 pedal and accelerator cable to the FI pedal/cable assembly isn't easy. The hard part is that the tube that the cable runs in is a different length on the FI car. The tube is shorter with the FI set-up. To swap the FI pedal/cable in I simply cut the tube and used a pipe flare tool to flare the cut end out so I could fit the funky clip on it to hold the cable in. It was very tight quarters to get the flaring tool in, and I had to bend the tube a bit, but it worked OK. It's not pretty, but it works, the clip stays on. Once I went though that I decided that even though the FI set-up is better, it's not that much better.

Did you cut the tube Jim?
 

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