128 wagon front suspension rebuild

Suspension refit experience

1) Reference manuals. The Haynes manual was highly informative as to the order of disassembly for the suspension, drive shaft, and transaxle removal. Also referred to the factory Fiat manual, which has very nice diagrams but less detailed text relative to Haynes. The Autobook manual has a nice diagram of the strut assembly. And of course reading Xweb and Mira using key word searches was super helpful.

2) Axles – Chose the best of three sets including the ones that came off the car. Interesting to note the longer right side drive shaft that was on the car (with the failed CV) is thinner and heavier. One of my backups in stock was in serviceable condition, but I opted not to use it as it was thinner and heavier, and had the earlier stub axle/CV with the smaller dimension hub nut. Used the thicker, hollow drive shaft, installed a new CV and new boot. Also swapped out the tripod for a new one. Left side short drive shaft also had a new CV already installed and good boots, with the larger hub nut.

3) Struts – The new OE style Boges required swapping the top spring perches from the original worn our blue Fiat struts. Upon disassembly, discovered one of the small plastic bush that holds the strut shaft in the center of the top perch had disintegrated. I was able to scavenge one from X1/9 strut tops I had in storage. Here’s the interesting bit: 128 strut shafts are smaller at the top fitting than X1/9. So (luckily) while the needed shaft bush did fit the 128 top perch, the cone shaped support for the top bush does not, nor does the large flat round washer. Both have center holes that are larger. I did not have the trick Mark Plaia pivots for this install (yet), but did liberally apply silicone lubricant. The 14” 128 coupe springs so far are uncut.

4) Lubricants / liquid wrench - Prior owners had in some areas used Permatex silver anti-seize. Since they also make thread locker products I humorously wonder if ingredients are shared, as I found the silver anti-seize to dry out in time to form a glue. Upon re-installation of fittings I have been using this product which is fantastic:

http://www.vansteen.com/vansteen-ma...products/copper-compound-500gm-tin-anti-seize

To uninstall seized old parts did use PB Blaster, dislike its odor. Also Liquid Wrench, and have used a home-made concoction 50% automatic transmission fluid + 50% acetone.

For rubber parts, Super Lube silicone lubricant. And for bearing grease a common Valvoline red product readily available at the parts counter.

5) Have yet to replace the sway bar centers. Looking closely at the link below, able to observe the bushing mount bolt surrounds crush together, requiring drilling out the mated section to uninstall. Have not done that yet until new parts arrive. Attempt at retrofitting Nissan and Porsche 22mm rubber bushes failed, as those are narrower that the OE surround bracket.

https://classicperformance-parts.co...ension-swaybar-rubber-control-arm-bushes-kit/

6) Tools – It was handy if not imperative to have an electric HF ½” drive impact driver to uninstall the hub nuts. Had to go back and forth several times on both sides breaking those free, then used the also imperative long breaker bar. Also key was the tie rod separator tool. Tie rod ends were super hard to remove. Suspect both hub nuts and tie rod ends were overtorqued with air wrenches in the past. Small sledge hammer came in handy as did a small dead blow hammer. Also acquired an Empi flywheel lock, though I could have used a wood block or pry bar instead. HF prybars were helpful. One note: HF flexible ratchets worked well, but tend to fall apart relative to my 40+ year old Craftsman. The one tool I did break: a 13mm 3/8” Craftsman deep socket fractured longitudinally, like a ball part frank split open. Fortunately I have a backup. Bought a pair of high-lift Sears jackstands: according to the Haynes manual to drop the transaxle recommended in the air you have 12” between the bottom of the front tires and the floor. $29 at Sears.com.
 
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