1300 head question

CnC79X19

True Classic
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posted a while back regarding the head on our 74’ X’s parts car regarding removing it. A few said not to waste the time based on the number but after wiping the springs clean I noticed that the valve springs were stamped ABARTH in white and wonder if it might be worthwhile pulling it to see if it is a modified one? Opinions?
 

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Are they better springs
or at least save the springs and transfer them to the other head...

SteveC
They are better quality springs then and worthwhile removing it? Looks like the head might be one of the stuck-on versions but I’m willing to give it a shot
 
The Abarth springs should be upgraded (higher tension) ones. That means the cam is likely also upgraded (possibly also Abarth), as the reason for the springs. And perhaps the head has been shaved and/or combustion chambers modified. All of this often goes along with big valves and custom porting. The '74 head seems to be a popular one to do all this to. It could be a hot head worth refurbishing. If you can pull it then it may worth something. No harm in trying, other than your time to pull it. But you are correct, old heads can get stuck (typically corrosion). There is a puller tool to help with that. And I believe a couple members here have the tool (plate) available for loan? Hopefully someone can offer it up if you find the head is stuck. Especially when they know it is to save such a nice part.
 
The Abarth springs should be upgraded (higher tension) ones. That means the cam is likely also upgraded (possibly also Abarth), as the reason for the springs. And perhaps the head has been shaved and/or combustion chambers modified. All of this often goes along with big valves and custom porting. The '74 head seems to be a popular one to do all this to. It could be a hot head worth refurbishing. If you can pull it then it may worth something. No harm in trying, other than your time to pull it. But you are correct, old heads can get stuck (typically corrosion). There is a puller tool to help with that. And I believe a couple members here have the tool (plate) available for loan? Hopefully someone can offer it up if you find the head is stuck. Especially when they know it is to save such a nice part.
When I removed my 1300 head, it was stuck on the studs. After double nutting one out, I found it had this blackish deposit on the studs that was creating the friction. I had used penetrating oil to get the first stud out, but after examining the deposits on the stud, I found that carb cleaner was a much better solution as it tended to dissolve the deposits, making removal much easier.
 
When I removed my 1300 head, it was stuck on the studs. After double nutting one out, I found it had this blackish deposit on the studs that was creating the friction. I had used penetrating oil to get the first stud out, but after examining the deposits on the stud, I found that carb cleaner was a much better solution as it tended to dissolve the deposits, making removal much easier.
Thanks Don,
I’ll try that. Already doused them in penetrating oil but the carb cleaner makes sense if there is some sort of carbon deposits. I’ll get it regardless if I have to make my own plate
 
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The Abarth springs should be upgraded (higher tension) ones. That means the cam is likely also upgraded (possibly also Abarth), as the reason for the springs. And perhaps the head has been shaved and/or combustion chambers modified. All of this often goes along with big valves and custom porting. The '74 head seems to be a popular one to do all this to. It could be a hot head worth refurbishing. If you can pull it then it may worth something. No harm in trying, other than your time to pull it. But you are correct, old heads can get stuck (typically corrosion). There is a puller tool to help with that. And I believe a couple members here have the tool (plate) available for loan? Hopefully someone can offer it up if you find the head is stuck. Especially when they know it is to save such a nice part.
Thanks Doc
 
The cam can be removed easy enough by removing the cam box from the head and pulling it out to ID the cam.
 
I assume by your post about pistons that you got the head off?
Correct Doc. Just let some penetrating oil over the span of a couple days and managed to budge it. The head wasn't shaved and valves looked like stock (with the exception of the ABARTH springs which are already removed and going to be installed in our Euro 1500 head). I might try to package everything up shaved cambox, reground cam, pistons (hopefully they'll have a set of forged connecting rods when we remove them?), and the Plex ignition for someone who wants to spice up a 1300 maybe?
The cam can be removed easy enough by removing the cam box from the head and pulling it out to ID the cam.
 
The cam can be removed easy enough by removing the cam box from the head and pulling it out to ID the cam.
The cam's only markings are FIAT Special etched on one end. Other guys here say it's a reground. Duration? Who knows
 
I haven't had an original and reground cam in my possession to compare the two. I would have thought the ID of the pulley side cam bushing on the box to the base would be an easy way to tell. Nominal should equal this:____, shaved would be < ____.
 
I haven't had an original and reground cam in my possession to compare the two. I would have thought the ID of the pulley side cam bushing on the box to the base would be an easy way to tell. Nominal should equal this:____, shaved would be < ____.
A high lift non regrind cam is also likely to have a smaller base circle than stock in order to achieve the extra lift because the lobes can only be enlarged to the point where you can still slide the cam in.
 
A high lift non regrind cam is also likely to have a smaller base circle than stock in order to achieve the extra lift because the lobes can only be enlarged to the point where you can still slide the cam in.
Could this be one of those and how can you tell?
 
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