1300 head question

Discussion in 'Discussion Forum' started by CnC79X19, Sep 8, 2018.

  1. CnC79X19

    CnC79X19 True Classic

    7199E9F5-26C9-4713-B8A1-D814287FD856.jpeg posted a while back regarding the head on our 74’ X’s parts car regarding removing it. A few said not to waste the time based on the number but after wiping the springs clean I noticed that the valve springs were stamped ABARTH in white and wonder if it might be worthwhile pulling it to see if it is a modified one? Opinions?
     

    Attached Files:

  2. fiatfactory

    fiatfactory Steve Cecchele

    Location:
    Western Australia
    or at least save the springs and transfer them to the other head...

    SteveC
     
  3. CnC79X19

    CnC79X19 True Classic

    Are they better springs
    They are better quality springs then and worthwhile removing it? Looks like the head might be one of the stuck-on versions but I’m willing to give it a shot
     
  4. Dr.Jeff

    Dr.Jeff True Classic

    Location:
    Sin City
    The Abarth springs should be upgraded (higher tension) ones. That means the cam is likely also upgraded (possibly also Abarth), as the reason for the springs. And perhaps the head has been shaved and/or combustion chambers modified. All of this often goes along with big valves and custom porting. The '74 head seems to be a popular one to do all this to. It could be a hot head worth refurbishing. If you can pull it then it may worth something. No harm in trying, other than your time to pull it. But you are correct, old heads can get stuck (typically corrosion). There is a puller tool to help with that. And I believe a couple members here have the tool (plate) available for loan? Hopefully someone can offer it up if you find the head is stuck. Especially when they know it is to save such a nice part.
     
  5. dllubin

    dllubin True Classic

    When I removed my 1300 head, it was stuck on the studs. After double nutting one out, I found it had this blackish deposit on the studs that was creating the friction. I had used penetrating oil to get the first stud out, but after examining the deposits on the stud, I found that carb cleaner was a much better solution as it tended to dissolve the deposits, making removal much easier.
     
  6. CnC79X19

    CnC79X19 True Classic

    Thanks Don,
    I’ll try that. Already doused them in penetrating oil but the carb cleaner makes sense if there is some sort of carbon deposits. I’ll get it regardless if I have to make my own plate
     
    Last edited: Sep 8, 2018
    Dr.Jeff likes this.
  7. CnC79X19

    CnC79X19 True Classic

    Thanks Doc
     
  8. Dr.Jeff

    Dr.Jeff True Classic

    Location:
    Sin City
  9. CnC79X19

    CnC79X19 True Classic

  10. carl

    carl True Classic

    Location:
    Virginia
    The cam can be removed easy enough by removing the cam box from the head and pulling it out to ID the cam.
     
  11. Dr.Jeff

    Dr.Jeff True Classic

    Location:
    Sin City
    I assume by your post about pistons that you got the head off?
     
  12. CnC79X19

    CnC79X19 True Classic

    Correct Doc. Just let some penetrating oil over the span of a couple days and managed to budge it. The head wasn't shaved and valves looked like stock (with the exception of the ABARTH springs which are already removed and going to be installed in our Euro 1500 head). I might try to package everything up shaved cambox, reground cam, pistons (hopefully they'll have a set of forged connecting rods when we remove them?), and the Plex ignition for someone who wants to spice up a 1300 maybe?
     
  13. CnC79X19

    CnC79X19 True Classic

    The cam's only markings are FIAT Special etched on one end. Other guys here say it's a reground. Duration? Who knows
     
  14. AKimball92

    AKimball92 True Classic

    Is there a Cam box measurement that can be done to help prove indirectly that the came is a regrind?
     
  15. CnC79X19

    CnC79X19 True Classic

    The lobes look differently which some of the guys on the forum say is consistent with a regrind I guess?
     
  16. AKimball92

    AKimball92 True Classic

    I haven't had an original and reground cam in my possession to compare the two. I would have thought the ID of the pulley side cam bushing on the box to the base would be an easy way to tell. Nominal should equal this:____, shaved would be < ____.
     
  17. dllubin

    dllubin True Classic

    A high lift non regrind cam is also likely to have a smaller base circle than stock in order to achieve the extra lift because the lobes can only be enlarged to the point where you can still slide the cam in.
     
  18. CnC79X19

    CnC79X19 True Classic

    Could this be one of those and how can you tell?
     
  19. dllubin

    dllubin True Classic

    If you can measure the lobe height and base circle you can determine the lift.
    Gross lift = lobe height - base circle.

    I used a metal lathe and dial indicator to measure mine but you can improvise.
     
    AKimball92 likes this.
  20. CnC79X19

    CnC79X19 True Classic

    Already way over my head buddy.
     
    AKimball92 likes this.

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