1971 Fiat 850 almost ready to drive

Pat

True Classic
I have a set of the exhaust system hanger brackets that I just pulled from a spare 850 engine last night (removing the brackets makes it easier to store the shortblocks side-by-side on the shelf). The "set" is comprised of:

1 front bracket
1 rear bracket
1 alloy spacer
4 rubber bushings
2 spacer tubes
2 large flat washers
2 small lock washers
2 13mm nuts

I don't have the 4 bolts/washers that fasten the brackets to the engine block (or rather, I'm keeping them to use on another 850 engine). But I can measure mine to give you a reference of what to get at the hardware store, if needed. ;)
I don't need the measurements of the bolts as I have a large stash of VW metric hardware and can find something that works. Let me know how much this would be. Also, do you have another heater valve? I've got an update to make tonight about driving this, or trying to drive this.
 

Pat

True Classic
I'm waiting for the new oil pressure sender to arrive and I am ordering a set of engine brackets from Jeff. (Thanks Jeff! I am thinking of anything else I need). Anyhow, when warming up the car to take it for a spin, I noticed a leak in the front. It looks like the heater valve is leaking all over the front passenger side. I noticed that it doesn't leak when the heater value is turned off.
So now, I am in search of another heater valve or how to to scab something else in. In the mean time, I'll go to Home Depot and connect the two hoses together to bypass the heater core.
Darn.

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Pat

True Classic
I'm waiting for the new oil pressure sender to arrive and I am ordering a set of engine brackets from Jeff. (Thanks Jeff! I am thinking of anything else I need). Anyhow, when warming up the car to take it for a spin, I noticed a leak in the front. It looks like the heater valve is leaking all over the front passenger side. I noticed that it doesn't leak when the heater value is turned off.
So now, I am in search of another heater valve or how to to scab something else in. In the mean time, I'll go to Home Depot and connect the two hoses together to bypass the heater core.
Darn.

View attachment 13401
Oops. Posted to the wrong place.
Pat
 

Jefco

Daily Driver
When you get it kinda trustworthy, come by my place in SE Portland, I'd love to see it, we can go for a celebratory beer (or drink of choice, sorry I have no Moxie).
 

Pat

True Classic
When you get it kinda trustworthy, come by my place in SE Portland, I'd love to see it, we can go for a celebratory beer (or drink of choice, sorry I have no Moxie).
Jefco,
Okay, sounds good, but I think I have another problem. I'll post it later on tonight. Looks like I may have the dreaded blown head gasket or worse yet, a cracked head!
 

Jefco

Daily Driver
Head gasket? I have one of those, but on closer examination, the fire rings are rusty (I've had it over 30 years). Makes a fun piece of art, tho!
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Pat

True Classic
I've finally got it to run good now, racking up about 15 miles running around the neighborhood. Just need a new gasket for the carb as the pump circuit is a little weak. I was thinking about taking a longer spin since it is running better before I chance the big one and head down the Interstate 5 or I5. Gotta have it real dependable since stalling on the I5 bridge is a very bad thing to do. (My Fiero did that to me)
What has just happened recently is that the heater valve is starting to leak maybe due to the higher revs. Seems like there is a lot of pressure building up.
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Shutting off the water lines led to another discovery. Looks like my metal lines are all rusted away, being bypassed by hoses running underneath the car. And now last night, letting in run for a bit with a radiator cap off will burp out some water and anti-freeze. I don't see any oil in the water or water in the crankcase, but I see a lot of bubbling in the radiator. The water gauge doesn't go past mid-point so maybe it is clogged? It looks really bad inside the radiator like it is all plugged up. Not sure what's wrong now and may need some advice.

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Not sure what what the issue is now. Should I try and re-torque the heads? Replace the head gasket? How do I check for a cracked head?
Should I wait since it is not overheating?
Definitely need advice on this one.
 

kmead

Old enough to know better
If the radiator looks clogged it is likely your problem.

I would look at having it boiled out and see if it could be rodded out or recored.
 

NM850

True Classic
If it's not over heating don't mess with the head. The only way to have it checked is to remove it. Don't do that yet.
If in doubt about the radiator follow Karl's advice, these radiators are mostly ancient by now. There are still some old school shops that can rework the radiator. Have them change the neck too so you can run a standard cap that you can get at any Napa auto parts.
Then just loop the heater hose for now bypassing the lines running to the front to isolate the problem.
It's normal to see bubbling with the cap off. The pressure keeps the fluid from boiling so if you have no pressure (no cap) it will boil at a lower temperature.
 

Jefco

Daily Driver
Does the radiator smell? If they're combustion gases leaking out, it should.
You could try a leakdown test.
 

Jeff Stich

True Classic
It looks really bad inside the radiator like it is all plugged up. Not sure what's wrong now and may need some advice.
Can chemical radiator flush be used in Fiat 850's or is it too harsh?
Stop Band-Aiding the thing & follow the good advice already given to you by kmead & NM850; pull the radiator & have a radiator shop boil it out, rod it & pressure test it. Pull the heater core while you're at it & have them do it, as well. While those parts are being done, flush the engine cooling system with a garden hose to get out any debris.

It's much easier (& cheaper) to fix the problem right the first time, rather than trying to fix it wrong several times! ;)
 

Chaostoy

Daily Driver
Don't let the Radiator shop weld their name tag on your radiator either! (Many years later and still peeved they did that without asking me!)
 

Jeff Stich

True Classic
Don't let the Radiator shop weld their name tag on your radiator either! (Many years later and still peeved they did that without asking me!)
Ah, yes. Good pointer there! I've got a few spare radiators that have random "shop tags" like those, never really liked them except for the actual old Italian radiator shop tags (some of my past 850's were private- or gray-market imports).
 

Pat

True Classic
Good advice everyone. I was just trying to cheat the system so I could take it for a couple of spins before I take it down for the winter. Please try not to blame me too much, just anxious to get behind the wheel. Got a lot of smiles per mile around the neighborhood. It is amazing how many people like to see these cars on the road.
 

NM850

True Classic
Don't blame you at all. These cars can be very reliable but it really comes down to going through the whole car yourself, most have suffered years of neglect. It also pays to be at one with your car so you can catch impending failures before they occur.
My spider has never been towed. You'll get there, just keep after it.
 

NM850

True Classic
By the way. IMO the most important thing to check is the fuel line going into the carb. Many 850s have caught fire because the brass fitting fell out of the carb. I personally remove the fitting and install a threaded one on every 850 I work on.
 
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