1974 engine oil, no mods. Thoughts?

I currently use full synthetic oil with high zinc level, but if that is hard to find maybe one with good high-temperature, high-shear (HTHS) ability is a reasonable alternative.
Here is a good article with advice from various industry sources.
classicmotorsports.com

Setting the record straight on motor oil for classic cars

Picking the best oil is crucial for your classic, so we ask the experts.
classicmotorsports.com classicmotorsports.com
And post #8 on this link.

What oil should I use?

I’m in the process of changing the oil in my 1500cc FI 1981 X. I bought mobil 1 5w30 full synthetic and a quart of Lucas synthetic oil stabilizer. I’ve used Lucas in the past with oil engines (sunk a 4 wheeler in a pond and the engine filled with water; oil was milky white and after a drain and...
xwebforums.com
 
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gene cooley said:
Valvoline lists the ZDDP levels in their tech info.
The Pro-V (I think that's what it's called) has a 3600ppm rating. It's a strictly race oil that needs to be changed every race, I think that's 500 miles in their write up.
The street/race has up to 1400ppm depending on whether it's synthetic or not.
What is the minimum ZDDP requirement for flat tappet engines?
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Got a reply from Oljekompaniet: A modern fully synthetic oil (like Valvoline Synpower) has 600-800ppm. In comparison an oil made for classic cars has 1000-1400ppm. Adding Rislone to modern synthetic oils is ok to boost the ZDDP level.
I assume our engine falls into "classic cars" so minimum 1000ppm.

A tricky decision, but as the UT engine specs says fully synthetic 15w40 oil but that is not available except for diesel trucks and it has low ZDDP. A modern fully synthetic 5w40 oil with extra ZDDP additives is the closest I can get to factory specs. Thoughts?
 
GregS said:
Here is a good article with advice from various industry sources.
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Very interesting and useful article. I especially liked the viscosity part where all involved fully agreed on that it is important to stick to manufactures specs. No one liked ZDDP additives. -If more zink is needed, change to an oil with more zink. A good thought and easy to say, but not possible as most modern oils lack zink.
 
I look for an oil with an ACEA A3/B3 rating, which means it has a high HTHS viscosity. Typically I use Mobile 1 15W-50, which has a nominal phosphorus level of 1200 ppm, and a nominal zinc level of 1300 ppm. Mobil's description of this oil is "Boosted, higher viscosity, advanced full synthetic formula designed for performance vehicles" and "For high HT/HS applications. Racing and Flat tappet applications."
 
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kmead said:
I run Valvoline Racing VR oil in all my old Fiats now. It is high zinc and has all the standard additives for road car oil in terms of detergents and so on. I don’t put many miles (well under 5K) on and change once a year.

I use Bosch or Mann filters. Other good alternatives are Wix and Napa (Wix makes Napa filters).

I had a bad experience with a K&N with a stuck bypass on one of my other cars and won’t use one again.

The whole synthetic thing is a non issue that stems from people believing their old cars when changed to synthetic leaked more oil years ago. I have not observed that on my OE 1969, 1970, 1985 or 1992 engines which all ran on Castrol for decades. My 850 continues to only leak from the drain plug, the Miata continues to leak from a variety of places (as did my Toyota). The X barely drips anything ever.

Many of the Diesel oils have had their zinc levels dropped because of their own catalyst issues (phosphorous in the zinc-dialkyl-dithiophosphate unfortunately creates a phosphate coating on the matrix reducing converter efficacy).
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Bosch - as in this one? I think this is what Matt sells: https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-3311-P...1618517365&sprefix=bosch+3311+,aps,209&sr=8-2
 
I hesitate to comment on these threads, after all it is mostly personal preference on a very subjective subject.

With regard to Bosch filters, I used a lot of them in the past with very good results. I've been a vintage German car enthusiast for many decades and Bosch had a very strong reputation as a great German manufacturer of components. However as time went on I noticed some issues cropping up now and then. And I discovered I was not alone. Apparently Bosch went through a major reorganization after the corporation was acquired by a larger umbrella. In the process many of their lines were changed; mostly to streamline things and reduce overhead, but also to phase out some lines and cut costs on others...typical business practice for the worldwide conglomerates that merely own other brands. As a result there were a number of Bosch lines that suffered, but specifically in this context their filter line appears to be one of them. Now it is very 'hit and miss' what you will get. They make the same parts at manufacturing plants all over the world, some are better than others. But unfortunately there is no way of knowing what is in the box when you buy it. Eventually I decided to avoid some Bosch products as a result, their filter lines being one.

The same "corporate management" practices is true for most other brands. Therefore these days it is impossible to know exactly what you are buying from many (most?) brands. So you have to make decisions based on experiences. I still like some Bosch products, but not all. Likewise for other brands.
 
Dr.Jeff said:
I hesitate to comment on these threads, after all it is mostly personal preference on a very subjective subject.

With regard to Bosch filters, I used a lot of them in the past with very good results. I've been a vintage German car enthusiast for many decades and Bosch had a very strong reputation as a great German manufacturer of components. However as time went on I noticed some issues cropping up now and then. And I discovered I was not alone. Apparently Bosch went through a major reorganization after the corporation was acquired by a larger umbrella. In the process many of their lines were changed; mostly to streamline things and reduce overhead, but also to phase out some lines and cut costs on others...typical business practice for the worldwide conglomerates that merely own other brands. As a result there were a number of Bosch lines that suffered, but specifically in this context their filter line appears to be one of them. Now it is very 'hit and miss' what you will get. They make the same parts at manufacturing plants all over the world, some are better than others. But unfortunately there is no way of knowing what is in the box when you buy it. Eventually I decided to avoid some Bosch products as a result, their filter lines being one.

The same "corporate management" practices is true for most other brands. Therefore these days it is impossible to know exactly what you are buying from many (most?) brands. So you have to make decisions based on experiences. I still like some Bosch products, but not all. Likewise for other brands.
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Any info is usually good info, unless it isn't. lol. I just used this example because it's the only filter listed at MWB, so I figured they'd know as much as anyone. Do you have a new favorite - I've got to decide on one by the weekend so my local can order it. Thanks
 
tvmaster said:
Any info is usually good info, unless it isn't. lol. I just used this example because it's the only filter listed at MWB, so I figured they'd know as much as anyone. Do you have a new favorite - I've got to decide on one by the weekend so my local can order it. Thanks
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Again, highly subjective and therefore very controversial. If you have a year of free time to read more opinions than you could ever imagine on these subjects, then go to the "bob is the oil guy" forum: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/
More BS on the subject than anyone could want.

The Wix (also sold as NAPA) filters seem to be highly regarded by many. But like all of them, there are several lines to choose from within the brand.
 
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Dr.Jeff said:
Again, highly subjective and therefore very controversial. If you have a year of free time to read more opinions that you could ever imagine on these subjects, then go to the "bob is the oil guy" forum: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/
More BS on the subject than anyone could ever imagine.

The Wix (also sold as NAPA) filters seem to be highly regarded by many. But like all of them, there are several lines to choose from within the brand.
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I was more thinking of what-do-you-use?
 
tvmaster said:
I was more thinking of what-do-you-use?
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Honestly that depends on the car, it's value, it's use, how much I care about it, how often I intend to change its oil, and many other factors. In other words I have no particular favorite brand.
 
Dr.Jeff said:
Again, highly subjective and therefore very controversial. If you have a year of free time to read more opinions that you could ever imagine on these subjects, then go to the "bob is the oil guy" forum: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/
More BS on the subject than anyone could ever imagine.

The Wix (also sold as NAPA) filters seem to be highly regarded by many. But like all of them, there are several lines to choose from within the brand.
Click to expand...
Napa gold is by and large the ONLY oil filter accepted by the 996 crowd, and I what I have on my P car. The X usually gets a Mobile 1 filter.
 
There’s a lot of counterfeit filters out there, if MWB trusts their supplier you should be OK Tvmaster
 
For a stock engine, oil choice simply doesn't matter much. (My opinion).
The X engine is like a truck motor.
It has no weak points in its mechanicals unlike MANY other engines.
The bottom end is bulletproof.
It does not wipe out camshafts undless you install the head gasket upside down or you buy a new camshaft with insufficient hardening (a batch of euro cams were that way)

Just change it regularly and warm the engine before you gun it.
 
I think I've found the optimal oil. 15w40 fully synthetic and extra ZDDP. But 250 SEK (30 USD) per quart. -Not willing to pay that much.
Screenshot_20210422-113347~2.png
 
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