RED X19

I’m starting to draw 3D model of turbo manifold, alternative(as close as possible) for UT mk1.

If anyone have dwg dxf or even 3d *edit no matter what type of file actually* model of flange, would appreciate if would share with me :)

When model will be ready, can share it if needed. Thare is no matter what turbo are You going to use- flange for turbo is easy job to change..
 
"Suds", "sudigs", now its getting too complicated for me...maybe I'll stick to "****"...more universal. :)

Since you have the oil cooler components already, I'd use them...especially for a turbo engine, for road use or racing. Turbos get the oil very hot, which breaks it down much faster. Frequent oil changes will certainly help, but so will having the cooler.
 
Repairing of head in progress.
Repairing of manifold third time in progress, should be last time.
Modeling new manifold in progress, just in case.
Heater in garage is glowing red, arrow of thermometer felt off, but am pretty sure if would have there no holes in garage and some insulation, could be good sauna o_O

The moment of thruth again is not so far :D

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M
 
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Sūds :D
First of all glad that noone bought UT head from me.
Both UT and also Punto head have cracks between all valves.
Have You any suggestions? except to have some beer.
 
I think the saying is '....all turbos do that sir' On the advice of the local engine shop I used a head off a naturally aspirated 1500 Strada (Ritmo) which they did the necessary work to regarding the combustion chamber and at the same time did the valves and some gas flow work.
The turbos heads lead a hard life, not helped by a rather basic standard engine control system often not helped by ill thought out tuning efforts
 
After the above post I thought as a bit of encouragement I would post some pictures of my engine. Its just come back from having a new management system fitted http://maxxecu.com/ to get rid of the unreliable 25yr old components and allow better control of the engine functions. I also get goodies like launch control, flat shift and anti-lag. The torque and power curves are so much wider than before, with far better control over fluid & air temps, fuelling and boost. I've stuck to just over 200hp as I'm not running forged pistons or rods - I'll let you know if I have been over ambitious :). Its hilariously fast!
One very useful feature on the ecu is that the boost can be ramped up over a set time period, we are talking a few seconds, from a standing start so that you are not putting all that power through the drivetrain (remember as standard they are 85hp) when its not actually needed.
The components, in what was the boot, are the water header tank, fuel swirl pot, low and high pressure fuel pumps, the pipe work from turbo to the charge cooler, fire extinguisher pipework/nozzle and the charge cooler water pump.
In the view of the engine you can see I'm no longer running the AFM. The charge cooler is from PWR (don't buy cheap off ebay, they just won't flow enough air) , the dump valve is temporarily removed but sits in the 'T' pipe near the bulk head. The little bottle nearest the bottom is the header tank for the charge cooler. An oil catch tank sits at the top of the picture. There is also another fire extinguisher nozzle by the catch tank.
 

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Jon, thanks for posting.

A couple of questions for you please:
they did the necessary work
What type valves did they install? And what changes were made to the combustion chambers?

having a new management system fitte
Are the ECU's turbo features (for things like anti-lag, ramped up boost with time, etc) performed by means of a dual-port waste gate (and 4-port solenoid)? Or does it control these things differently?

Thanks for any info you can add, I'm learning as I plan my project.
 
Both UT and also Punto head have cracks between all valves.
I think you have 3 heads? Are all 3 cracked? If so, I'd do like Jon and look for a good used standard head from any of the matching engines.

By the way, if you want to "de-carbon" (remove all the crud) from a used head or pistons, try blasting with baking soda. Works great without doing any damage to components. A really simple blaster can be made like this:

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More details:
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First pic: 45 degree end with hose reinforcement to push into box of soda.
Next pic: Where to slit for air nozzle insertion.
Third pic: Air nozzle into hose.
Last pis: Secure hose on nozzle.

Use air compressor connected to nozzle gun, to draw soda through hose and spray out at parts.
 
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Head in picture is actually from NA 1.6 Punto.. Ritmo/Strada may have smaller valves=more material between valves and that's why may not tend to crack there. Jon, thanks, will forward that You have done, to workshop, who are going to do finishing job on my build.. just for comparing :)

Jeff, thanks, actually couldn’t figure out how to clean that off properly.

All three heads have cracks and on all of them are cracks between all valves. Didn’t check for more cracks UT heads, but Punto head has some extra cracks are born , can see in photo.

Have no choice, and also cracks between valves on Punto head aren’t dangerous yet, there isn’t any symptoms between ports that there us crack. Renewed valve seats, changed seals, cleaned threads, UT springs on Punto head...carved intake ports to mstch UT manifold, will bolt it up tomorrow.
 
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Engine is in.

Again some useful info, at least for me as I didn’t know that. You can take engine out through top- it was way easier. I would even put it back through top but was too lazy to make some engine lift. As it appears that - suspension arms don’t interfere to put engine in through bottom. But when installed bottom engine mount, AGAIN :D saw that haven’t put shaft on top of it..
If anyone is going to move radiator to rear trunk - excellent fit is from mazda 626 (V6 engine).

Upgraded garage with lights as haven’t seen sun for two months already o_O
 
Janis, looking at your picture from before (copy below) I have a question.
I don't know if this block had the mechanical fuel pump, but does the mounting area on the block (where a fuel pump would be) interfere or come close to interfering with the oil cooler hoses from the adapter (if the adapter was mounted pointing "up" like in the picture)? I'm talking about the space between the hoses and the block at the fuel pump area:

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Realize I did not ask the question properly. Even though you do not have one of these plates on yours, I am wondering if you could tell from your example. If a "fuel pump blanking plate" (see picture below) was bolted over the area where a mechanical fuel pump goes, do you think it would allow room for the oil cooler adapter to be mounted up-ward like in your picture? Hope it makes sense, thanks.

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Realize I did not ask the question properly. Even though you do not have one of these plates on yours, I am wondering if you could tell from your example. If a "fuel pump blanking plate" (see picture below) was bolted over the area where a mechanical fuel pump goes, do you think it would allow room for the oil cooler adapter to be mounted up-ward like in your picture? Hope it makes sense, thanks.

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I don’t know how does look that plate..
 

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Thank you Janis, those pictures are perfect...it answers the question.
I can see your block was not made for the mechanical fuel pump (makes sense, yours is FI, so electric pump), therefore no hole to be covered with a plate. On the X's 1500 there is a hole made in the block for the fuel pump that must be covered when converting to electric pump. And the cover plate sticks out a little, so I wondered how close the oil hoses would be if I mounted them pointing up. Seems it can work.
 
Realize I did not ask the question properly. Even though you do not have one of these plates on yours, I am wondering if you could tell from your example. If a "fuel pump blanking plate" (see picture below) was bolted over the area where a mechanical fuel pump goes, do you think it would allow room for the oil cooler adapter to be mounted up-ward like in your picture? Hope it makes sense, thanks.

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That's a pretty looking engine ;)
 
Nice - I do suspect, however, that the filter might be too long for an X1/9.

I myself need a thermostat type sandwich adapter and appropriate filter for my cooler setup.

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Full disclosure, that is not my engine. Just an image I saved for reference. If I recall it belongs to another Xweb member but don't remember who.

I agree, that filter likely won't clear the frame rail if it is going in a X. I happened to have a filter-adapter-plate that fits my engine (it was for a VW, go figure they are the same) and plan to use it to add a cooler to the X's system. My adapter does not have a thermostat but where I live cold weather is pretty much non-existent so I may not need it. But I noticed some very affordable in-line thermostats (similar to the one in that photo) on-line. Anyway, I was debating between running the oil lines from the adapter down under the starter (like they are in the pic) or up high pointing pretty much straight up. With the arrangement of intercooler, oil cooler, aftermarket engine management, etc that I am trying to map out, running them up would work best...if everything clears.
 
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New bracket for dogbone and sunvisors , for first seconds couldn’t get why in pasanger side sunvisor with mirror touches rear view mirror :D from UK LOL
 
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