RED X19

lidox19 said:
Myronx19,
Use a filter from a Lancia Y10 turbo. This is what I use with this sandwich plate.
Regards
Andy
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Hi Andy! - indeed, problem is that we don't have Lancia here (beyond 1982 anyway!), so I'm not quite sure what the North American Fram/Other brand equivalent filter would be.

I may just buy one from Europe to see what is similar. I just googled, found these but not sure what might be right:


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And to top it off, I can't find the Uno T filter sandwich that I had!! I misplaced it! I'll probably buy another one! :)
 
Ya, I looked for that Lancia filter as well but nothing listed anywhere.

Without actually having my oil filter adapter plate installed yet, I can't verify if any of these will clear the X's frame. But here is a little info I came across. According to a reference I found, these are some dimensions for "short" filters that fit the X engine (and therefore the adapter plate):

Fram PH7328 (3.1" tall, 32.5 sq inch filter capacity, 12 psi bypass relief)
Fram PH3614 (3.34" tall, 23.3 sq inch capacity, 12 psi relief)
WIX 51394 (2.98" tall, 16.86 sq in, 8 psi)
WIX 51348 (3.4" tall, 22.81 sq in, 8 psi).

You might cross reference those numbers to your favorite brand, but be aware every company will have different dimensions/specs for the same application. One of those (PH7328) I believe is the same Volvo application Huss has used on his X with an adapter plate (or at least the Fram equivalent to it). Another cross-over for that filter is Mann W917. Like I said, these all need to be verified first.

To get more filter data look at this site:
http://www.oilfilterdata.com/index.php

Maybe go someplace with cheap prices like RockAuto and order one of each number you are interested in and try them to see which fits best for your liking. Please report back with any findings.
 
Dr.Jeff said:
Jon, thanks for posting.

A couple of questions for you please:

What type valves did they install? And what changes were made to the combustion chambers?


Are the ECU's turbo features (for things like anti-lag, ramped up boost with time, etc) performed by means of a dual-port waste gate (and 4-port solenoid)? Or does it control these things differently?

Thanks for any info you can add, I'm learning as I plan my project.
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I'm not sure my memory stretches that far back but I'm sure the valves were nothing more than standard. Whether there is a difference between turbo valves and N/A valves (it was a N/A head) I don't know? I do know the valves seats had 3 angles cut into them to aid gas flow. The combustion chambers may have needed machining to correct any compression issues between the N/A and turbo head, again I'm not sure, but if so you would need some specialist knowledge to get it right. They did some other work to the inlet and exhaust ports to also aid gas flow.
We used standard rods. They suggested going with standard/non forged pistons to keep the costs down, but they went for a good quality standard piston - in my case 'Mahle' pistons. Note that at the time we could only find 'standard' and 'one size oversize' available and so if your bores are very worn you'll have to sleeve them back down. He suggested that with proper engine management the above would be good for a reliable 200hp and so far no problems, but without the new ecu I couldn't have done it reliably.
If I haven't mentioned it before I am running a significantly upgraded turbo from http://www.turbotechnics.com , as the standard one runs out of puff around 130hp. The unit uses the existing casing with improved internals which usefully means you don't need a custom manifold and other bits.
The control of the various functions of the ecu are accomplished by a combination of ignition and boost control via the ecu. Ignition is by controlling advance and retard and the boost is, as you suggest, via a solenoid bleeding off boost, all according to the parameters you enter into the ecu. Other stuff like launch control and ramped up boost are a combination of a clutch pedal switch and you setting the time/speed of boost increase into the ecu which will act on the above. It won't work miracles but it will will knock off around 40-50hp which will help the poor old gearbox under a racing start
 
Jon, at the moment mine has gearbox with X19 internals. What is border of power that can damage gearbox easily? And again if it will happen, could it be damaged so much that even UT internals won’t help anymore? Or stock Luk clutch will slip before that? (have no idea about power, that’s what tuner is expecting, my goal was to exceed 115hp)

P.S. Shame to tell, but looks that UT stock management that was previously on UT engine worked, faulty was fuel - there was no fuel :D I didn’t check it because there was 25-30 l , and had driven only 130km, maybe because of bad ignition timing, what they told me at MOT station
 
Jon, thanks for all of the excellent info. I'm learning as I go, so hearing how things were done in real language is helpful.

Janis, you're not the first person to run out of gas and not realize that was the issue. At least you are willing to admit it and learn from the experience. But it is sounding like going to a aftermarket ECU is best anyway, so that's ok about the stock unit.
 
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Dr.Jeff said:
How did you make the recessed circles in the aluminum panel?
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Made some simple tool, at work have hand press-that made centering simple, but not so hard would be even in vice.

I remember You have asked how to disassemble mirror in another thread.. has to be warm, that’s not problem where You are, just open it with screwdriver, but do it from bottom side in centr, if will damage plastic it won’t be visible, opened and cleaned mine without problems, should change mirror part some day.
 
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Nice job. Dimple Dies (as they are called here) have become quite popular. There are even different shapes just for looks:
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And I see another method of making your own:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/welding-fabrication-53/dimple-die-honda-bearing-races-3276467/


Regarding the mirror, the plastic retainer ring around mine is broken in a couple places and the glass is more than dirty - it has oxidation on the back side, so I think the whole thing will need to be replaced anyway. I'll see what I have from other cars. I would like to make custom sun-visors (never cared for the size/shape of the originals), so they could accommodate any size mirror.
 
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Is my picture correct?
And in middle of small circuit (interior radiator) I have to put turbo?

Mazda V6 radiator has 3 exits. Do I have to use all 3 of them or can just use 2 and block one of exits?
 
I'm not that familiar with this particular arrangement, mine is completely different, so hope someone else will confirm this for you. See picture below...hope I got the labels right.

On the radiator, as long as two of the outlets are coming from the same place (both connect to one of the tanks), then you should be able to block one and just use the other (if it is large enough to allow the correct flow volume). Try running a water hose (like for the yard) into one port and watch where it flows out from. If the other two are connected then the water should come out both at the same time.


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Labels are right.
Will check tomorrow how those hoses are on mazda..

Tried to figure out how to make nicely heater control unit - there wont be any. Just on/off switch for fan and simple valve with red handle to adjust flow
 
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I’m going to make new custom
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rear bonnet, existing is in too bad shape, to spend on it time.
Question which direction there is swirl? If it is not too much asked, could please somebody tape on both rear bonnets longitudinaly few threads and check in which way they go (be safe - pickup some random passanger for checking)

I have to know that to make openings of vents in appropriate direction.
 
Jeff has the coolant circuits correct!

The air flow over the engine lid is as you have drawn it. Air travels forwards immediately above the lid. There is a clue in the direction the side panel louvres are leaning.
 
mkmini said:
Jon, at the moment mine has gearbox with X19 internals. What is border of power that can damage gearbox easily? And again if it will happen, could it be damaged so much that even UT internals won’t help anymore? Or stock Luk clutch will slip before that? (have no idea about power, that’s what tuner is expecting, my goal was to exceed 115hp)

P.S. Shame to tell, but looks that UT stock management that was previously on UT engine worked, faulty was fuel - there was no fuel :D I didn’t check it because there was 25-30 l , and had driven only 130km, maybe because of bad ignition timing, what they told me at MOT station
Click to expand...
I used new components but found that the stock clutch 1300 turbo clutch assembly was struggling at 130hp (slipping) . I then went for a supposed upgraded clutch (Black Diamond) and that was not much better. I now run a http://www.helix-autosport.com/home-page/ paddle type clutch assembly. They rate this to just over 200hp and have had no problems what ever, their products are top quality and from experience would say they are being conservative on the upper limit. The only draw back is that a the competition biased clutch assembly is a little sharp on uptake.
The gearbox is a bit of a unknown. So far the standard gearbox has held up over 3yrs (admittedly not that many miles) of 190hp, race starts and very aggressive gear changes and so I am currently of the opinion that I'll keep with the standard set up, keeps things much simpler. However, I do have spare rebuilt gearbox in the garage for the inevitable time when it breaks. The alternative from the likes of Collotti and Bacci Romano are soooo expensive and from the experience of a friend of mine not always that well made
 
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If You think that I haven’t done anything on X19 for a while, then You are nearly wright :D - earned money for ECU and other expensive stuff. And that means car maybe will run in May or June :)

*found bigger intercooler at home, if anyone is looking for UT stock one-let me know.
 
Figured you were busy with work. Glad to hear you're still making some progress on the project. That bigger intercooler will be a big benefit. The stock one really is too small for this application (mid-engine location with no direct airflow to the intercooler). Adding a fan behind it will also help significantly.
 
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