RED X19

The towers were constructed of 2 or 3 layers for strength at the factory. BUT, they were NOT good enough for hard driving and stiffer springs. My good friend Marko Plaia (now deceased) constructed and what he called "BIG FOOT Strut Tower Re-enforcement Plates" and they were sold through Chris Obert at FiatPlus.com . His simply were bolted in between the tower and the strut and I am told they would actually flatten the tower back into shape... and give much more support.

I can see someone taking these and welding them in as well, or building their own two. I personally have never cut into the towers to know if this is the case. PM Mr. Tony K and ask him as he has a test rig in his shop that is the back half of an X1/9... used for fitting components on engines.

Here is the link for the plates:

http://www.fiatplus.com/PLAIA-BIG-FOOT-STRUT-TOP-KIT.html

You may also want to install these up front...

http://midwest-bayless.com/Fiat-X19...ing-pair-2x-fiat-bertone-x19-128-all-new.aspx

There is one more dealer and that is Vicks Automotive to purchase parts here in the States, along with the kind folks on this site.

Keep up the good work, HTH.
 
Frog said:
Hmm, nice work on those rear lower corners- how hard was that to pull off? Did you use two pieces to make the approximate shape?
Nice work so far, afraid I can't answer any of your questions- just ask ;).
Click to expand...

Welcome Frog to the insanity... One of our Moderators (Jim Decker) lives in St. Louis and there may be a few more "close" to you. Please take a foto of your ride as with Odie here, we love to see them and can possibly (probably) help you with any issues you may (probably) have...
 
mkmini said:
Only one piece of steel, bigger than needed in the end, need a tube 8-15cm diameter. Put plate on tube and start patiently bounce needed shape, beter if You use spherical hummer.

I hope that explained that You can understand :D

Hardest part was that rear lower valance yet, there is 5 years from I left work in metaldesign studio, slowly start remember little tricks. But welding on this is my first experience, specialist allowed that my skills are acceptable to not ruine the car.
Click to expand...
Good to know. I can't weld myself, but I've got a friend who worked at a boat prop repair shop who ought to be able to do that no problem. Thanks for the tips!


Black-Tooth said:
Welcome Frog to the insanity... One of our Moderators (Jim Decker) lives in St. Louis and there may be a few more "close" to you. Please take a foto of your ride as with Odie here, we love to see them and can possibly (probably) help you with any issues you may (probably) have...
Click to expand...
Thanks! Yessir, I've been in contact with Jim; nice enough guy ;)

Sadly not yet an owner, but a fan and potential owner looking at a car with similar body issues to the one here. I'll be sure to create a thread if everything goes as I hope, it'll be quite a project.
 
Frog said:
Good to know. I can't weld myself, but I've got a friend who worked at a boat prop repair shop who ought to be able to do that no problem. Thanks for the tips!



Thanks! Yessir, I've been in contact with Jim; nice enough guy ;)

Sadly not yet an owner, but a fan and potential owner looking at a car with similar body issues to the one here. I'll be sure to create a thread if everything goes as I hope, it'll be quite a project.
Click to expand...


WELP...

Be sure to post your WANTS in the FS&W section... I have been hunting for a good ride for one of our members here and have come across some GREAT cars. I dunno what exactly "WRONG" with you wanting a car like Odie's. He's somewhere in South America or Africa or something like that and these cars are extremely rare. Ovi in Romania did about the same thing. But yur in Misserie in the geographical CENTER of the U.S. Shipping from anywhere would not cost more than 500 bucks and I have seen MANY good drivers for $3500 on up that you could fly/drive home. or pick up with a buddy.

BE SURE TO POST FOTOS HERE FIRST... as we can help you determine if the car is worth the money and what problems there may be. We've been fairly successful doing this and there are a few that have bought "sight unseen" and by the grace of God, drove them home. Two that I can remember broke down but a member here got them back on the road. Mr. Decker is one of those heroes that helped a member get to California from Michigan! He arrive here with only ONE functioning brake! HA! (He didn't send pictures...)
 
IMG_0481.JPG
IMG_0483.JPG
IMG_0510.JPG
Rear end is nearly done with welding.
Found out that both floors in cabin aren't as good as looked before.
In next weekend will start with making rotisserie.

Tought that won't put too much time in this car in the beginning, just as needed for MOT, but it looks like that this will be full restoration.

Becames too tight to work in this warehouse, but my garage is filled with mini stuff.
 
"Thought that won't put too much time in this car in the beginning, just as needed for MOT, but it looks like that this will be full restoration."

I could see that from the first photos you posted. Your skills at metal fab and welding are great and you are blessed in that manner. You will most likely have a car based on 50% NEW metal when you are done.

Again, keep up the GREAT work!
 
IMG_0514.JPG
IMG_0538.JPG
IMG_0544.JPG
Finally I understood, if somewhere on car is rust spot, most likely there will be 3 planes to weld. Looked into sills - outer sills look very good for car that had seen salty roads, inner sounds much better than looks. Not going to replace them yet, just fill with conservant.
 
Ya know... maybe ya just oughtta stuff those holes with newspaper, bondo over the top of it... and be done with it.
 
Tony, maybe Your idea is best, put it on rotarie yesterday and saw how much work there is under the car.
Will not annoy you with posts till I finish welding- after month or two.

One guy found me onfacebook ~350km from me and want to sell to me another x19 with working uno turbo engine and plus extra rusty X (not so rusty as my first one)without engin,windshield and brakes. Both for 1200€ , after 12 hours will post photos and will be happy to see Your opinion.
 
HEY... I WAS JOKING about the BONDO... but only half joking.

You are such a damn good welder and fabricator I was trying to insult you with a chicken-shot statement, BUT...

If you STABILIZE the area so there is no flex or movement, then neutralize and stabilize the areas with rust, then you can fill the area with mat and fiber glass, and top with as little Bondo as possible.

This works great in areas the will never be seen, (or of no consequence structurally, etc.) especially under the car and covered with a pebble undercoat. Its a damn good DRIVER that way. If ya want some kinda show quality TRAILER-QUEEN and all this hidden stuff is necessary (in your mind) then keep on doin' whatchur doin'.

Thanks for your kind words and I look forward to seeing the fotos of the parts cars. If he came to YOU, then I suspect he is really trying to rid himself of the "junk" laying around his property or garage. REMEMBER that when bargaining... and do post fotos BEFORE you purchase.

350km is about 217 miles or about 3 1/2 or 4 hours drive time for me. I would plan on spending the night there... bring your trailer but keep it at the hotel/motel where you are staying so when you meet up with the guy you don't look so anxious.

TELL US OF YOUR PLANS BEFOREHAND so we can be prepared and answer your posts QUICKLY... then once you have a few THOUGHTS from us, you can go back later that day or the next, and make him an offer. Once settled, go get your trailer and bring it all home.

I re-read your post... do you mean TODAY?

I get updates on my computer so I will be looking for them later today. Good luck!
 
Most part of each joke is true. I will try to make it as good as my wallet, possibilities and time lets me, as my wallet is empty, have not much free time so I use mostly possibilities :D
Thanks,my techinc is similiar, but never had an idea to left an trailer near before.

My timezone is +02 hours, right now it's 00:30 after 12 hours will be lunch time in work, and on work PC are photos ..
 
IMG_1092.JPG
IMG_1033.JPG
IMG_1057.JPG
My employee barks on pedestrians.

X19 process has been stuck in sandblasting department. So I'm working(thinking) on engine. I would like to get about 9kg/kw or less.
This morning found new advertisement Fiat Uno turbo for 250€.

So I would appreciate Your advice.

Is this money worth be spent for engine(working) and brake swap?

Is there anything else what can I take from Uno for X19?
 
So decided to buy it and sale that punto which I wont need.

Still one question- what good stuff I can replace from uno to X? Engine,front brakes, something else?
 
mkmini said:
So decided to buy it and sale that punto which I wont need.

Still one question- what good stuff I can replace from uno to X? Engine,front brakes, something else?
Click to expand...

The PRIMARY consideration is the engine and also all the wiring and electronics. One is no good without the other. Brakes on the X, just like the cooling system, are more than adequate when in PERFECT operating condition. My experience taught me the only real problem with the brakes was inadequate rubber and not enough weight up front. Dropping the suspension 2 inches at the front bumper and installing a 60 series tire... messing with the pressures a bit, and they work great!

If you haven't bought it yet and it runs, ask the seller to send you a video. A compression check would be next. In lieu of that, then its a gamble... but about $323 USD (250E) would be a great price for a CORE if not cracked. Plan on rebuilding the engine and turbo though and it would be a nice bolt-in upgrade! And if it RUNS, you've hit the lottery!

HTH
 
I have almost no idea what am I doing.

1.Oil level is too high-will check isn't there water under oil.
2.Will try to put UT gearbox internals into X gearbox.
3.After that, figure out best solution what to do with turbo sistem. Two same cracked UT mk1 exhaust manifolds. Two IHI and one Garret tb25 - all of them need rebuilding. AFM need rebuilding..

At least I have fully equipped workshop to do everything properly :D
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1269.JPG
    IMG_1269.JPG
    307.8 KB · Views: 155
IMG_1273.JPG
Is it really only that stick whitch needs adjustment (like on Garret behind it) to put 1bar on that IHI?
 
Can't understand how to dissasmbly gearbox, all bolts out, reverse sensor out. Do I need to take off those farest gears(fifth?) ? Can take bellhousing off about for 15mm and something doesn't let to move it further.

I believe that both these gearbox are already with UT internals, but want to be sure that it is ir will be in good condition.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top