RED X19
- Thread starter Janis
- Start date
lookforjoe
True Classic
Is it a standard mini or a Cooper model?
More pics would be great.
As far as the building having character - not sure that structure would meet any US building codes, cool as it is
More pics would be great.
As far as the building having character - not sure that structure would meet any US building codes, cool as it is
Janis
True Classic
Joe, this is only photo I have, before I disassembled it. That one in the link below has all same features and interior.. features haha- sportspack arches,shorter ratio steering rack, 4 spot lights, spacers in the rear,13x6 alloys, koni adjustable shocks, alloy gear knob, aseats with embed cooper logo, stainless accelerator pedal, that is all the difference on Cooper S models from Cooper on mk7, iirc than on early models mk1 and mk2 that meant also more power.
This could be my only car that doesn’t look like taken out of trash bin
https://m.mobile.de/auto-inserat/mini-cooper-mpi-oldenburg/256053313.html?ref=srp#desImages
This could be my only car that doesn’t look like taken out of trash bin
https://m.mobile.de/auto-inserat/mini-cooper-mpi-oldenburg/256053313.html?ref=srp#desImages
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Janis
True Classic
Should I swap in temporarily 1.5carbed engine from Ritmo to get it back roadworthy?
•100€
•only difference from existing setup from existing is to take out electric fuel pump from tank
•will take ~1-2 days to get it running, this point I think is answering on my doubts, should I
That 1.6turboengine is coming slow..
•100€
•only difference from existing setup from existing is to take out electric fuel pump from tank
•will take ~1-2 days to get it running, this point I think is answering on my doubts, should I
That 1.6turboengine is coming slow..
lookforjoe
True Classic
Put the carb setup in & drive the car while you can. Put the Turbo bits together in the meantime, and install once the weather isn’t so good anymore
Janis
True Classic
Plumbing in process. Used 3layered(plastic/aluminum/plastic) pipes for heater. At the moment am trying to figure out location of intercooler and expansion tank.
Intercooler from Fiat Ducato is a bit bigger than from UT, doesn’t fit on top of gearbox, and can nicely be positioned on top of radiator in the rear, wont be that plumbing too long to manifold and turbo?
That vw ball type expansion tank start to get annoying, as hoses are pointing on same direction as mounting points-to strut tower. Will try to find something that fits better.
Intercooler from Fiat Ducato is a bit bigger than from UT, doesn’t fit on top of gearbox, and can nicely be positioned on top of radiator in the rear, wont be that plumbing too long to manifold and turbo?
That vw ball type expansion tank start to get annoying, as hoses are pointing on same direction as mounting points-to strut tower. Will try to find something that fits better.
Dr.Jeff
True Classic
Is that the Ritmo engine?
Another option is to mount the IC above the trans (rather than next to it), laying flat on top. It might require modifying or replacing the engine cover to clear it. But you are good at such things. Here is an idea of where I'm referring to:
The shorter the pipes to and from the IC the better. But sometimes you have to do what will fit. Front engine turbos often mount the IC in front of the radiator, so it would be about the same here.
Another option is to mount the IC above the trans (rather than next to it), laying flat on top. It might require modifying or replacing the engine cover to clear it. But you are good at such things. Here is an idea of where I'm referring to:
lookforjoe
True Classic
The (air-toair?) IC will tend to heat soak in either of those locations
Why not build it into the engine cover, as it were - elevated above to give some more air gap, cut opening in engine cover to fit around it. Either location is still short run for the IC piping, all things considered. MUCH shorter than any FWD setup with forward mount IC. Subaru top mounts I think - but they add cooling ducts, no?
Why not build it into the engine cover, as it were - elevated above to give some more air gap, cut opening in engine cover to fit around it. Either location is still short run for the IC piping, all things considered. MUCH shorter than any FWD setup with forward mount IC. Subaru top mounts I think - but they add cooling ducts, no?
kmead
Old enough to know better
If you are making a new engine cover anyway, why not put a snorkel on top of it to direct air onto the the IC in the ‘blue’ position. You could integrate a fan under the IC to provide airflow when stopped to minimize heat soak that is pulling air from well outside the engine compartment.
motoTrooper
True Classic
Yeah, this is what makes for an interesting challenge in such a small car. Seems like it may be best to keep it simple with Karl's idea of the air scoop. If aesthetic balance isn't a priority, you could have the scoop route behind the driver's head to interfere the least with rearward viewing.
Dr.Jeff
True Classic
Last night I did a quick mock-up of my intended IC location. Basically mounted flat (horizontal) in the 'blue area' I described previously. The bottom of it was flush with the level of the engine cover's lower edge, so it extends up above the 4" thickness of the IC. I already intended to make a new cover with increased air flow anyway and I like the overall orientation of the IC sitting there (short/straight plumbing runs, away from major heat sources, available air flow to both sides, no interference with other components). It has an electric fan mounted to it as well. So that is where I will mount it.
However a question to be answered is which direction to direct the air flow, top-to-bottom or bottom-to-top (the rotation of the fan and added ducting can push or pull the air either way). I posted this question previously in another thread, and I've consulted a couple of outside sources. There are pros and cons to both possibilities.
The air outside the engine bay is cooler than the air within. So moving the air from top to bottom means cooler outside air coming across it (as Special K describes). But that might also be opposite to the natural direction of flow; hot air rises, and there is a low pressure area above the engine bay. So the fan will be less effective as it fights the natural flow path. Also the heated air coming off the IC will be blowing into the already hot engine bay (although this might help push air through the bay and actually be cooler overall?).
Moving the air from bottom to top means warmer air will cross the IC, and therefore less thermal efficiency. But it follows the natural direction of flow so perhaps greater air volume crossing the IC. If the air can be brought up from under the floor pan, directed to the IC, and then exit the top of the bay it should be cooler and overall more efficient (at the IC). The ducting needed to do that will reduce the movement of air through the rest of the engine bay (the air that otherwise would be flowing through it from bottom to top), making the rest of the bay hotter. With a turbo generating a LOT of heat in the confined bay this is significant.
Due to the amount of added equipment required for the turbo system, and for the sake of overall layout and heat management, I plan to convert the trunk into an extension of the engine bay. This is done by opening up the panel between the bay and the trunk and adding a grill to the rear panel (between the tail-lights). Hopefully this will extract hot air from the turbo and reduce bay temps.
How might this influence the answer to the above question of direction of flow? Looking at the 'bottom to top' option, ducting dedicated air from below the car up through the IC and out the top of the bay would not have as much effect on bay temps, as additional air movement can now pass through the rear. On the other hand with the 'top to bottom' option, the heated air coming off the IC can also be extracted out the rear reducing its impact on bay temps. No clear advantage either way?
Looking at some 'factory' turbo models with the IC located over the engine I found both solutions used. So there wasn't a clear answer there either. Going 'top to bottom' seems slightly more common on front engine vehicles with a large amount of air directed toward the hood. Not sure how much the mid mounted location of the X's engine effects this.
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Janis
True Classic
Thanks for ideas, it would be better in “blue” position with snorkel added, also I would have to install a little bit higher than strut tops as Joe mentioned, because it doesn’t fit lover than top of the crossmember.
In “white position” bonus could be that under radiator are two fans that are pulling air from top to the bottom.
I wouldn’t add a scoop for IC under a car because in hot days there is alot of heat going up from asphalt, also more dust. Anyway top or bottom discussion can be figured out trying both ways with measuring t*
Also I like how scoops look like
This is reason why I didn’t want to spend much time on paintjob or before all these modifications are done
In “white position” bonus could be that under radiator are two fans that are pulling air from top to the bottom.
I wouldn’t add a scoop for IC under a car because in hot days there is alot of heat going up from asphalt, also more dust. Anyway top or bottom discussion can be figured out trying both ways with measuring t*
Also I like how scoops look like
This is reason why I didn’t want to spend much time on paintjob or before all these modifications are done
kmead
Old enough to know better
Keep in mind that the engine cover is in a low to no pressure area of the car. The air coming over the top of the car is roiling and rolling. The bottom of the car is another low pressure dirty air area so there is little differential flow normally which is part of why Hussein’s fan has such a marked effect on the engine temp.
If I were of a mind to turbo my car I would either go air to water for the IC or if air to air with very intentional air ducting or a serious fan setup to get cooler air into the engine compartment.
I wouldn’t look at front engine cars as models for airflow, the front of the car is ‘the’ high pressure area of the car and one can pull high pressure laminar air into the engine across the hood or high pressure air ducted in from the front to get cool dense air across the IC.
Look at other mid engine cars with similar body characteristics (ie non laminar flow with strong separation after the cabin, MR2 and so on) and how they have solved these problems. Just a suggestion.
The MR2 IC for the supercharged version of the car would work very well, the compressed air could enter just out of the turbo, and with some careful siting exit very nearly into an elbow leading directly into the existing intake of an X.
If I were of a mind to turbo my car I would either go air to water for the IC or if air to air with very intentional air ducting or a serious fan setup to get cooler air into the engine compartment.
I wouldn’t look at front engine cars as models for airflow, the front of the car is ‘the’ high pressure area of the car and one can pull high pressure laminar air into the engine across the hood or high pressure air ducted in from the front to get cool dense air across the IC.
Look at other mid engine cars with similar body characteristics (ie non laminar flow with strong separation after the cabin, MR2 and so on) and how they have solved these problems. Just a suggestion.
The MR2 IC for the supercharged version of the car would work very well, the compressed air could enter just out of the turbo, and with some careful siting exit very nearly into an elbow leading directly into the existing intake of an X.
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