1981 X1/9 Uno Turbo

Discussion in 'Discussion Forum' started by mkmini, Oct 17, 2016.

  1. mkmini

    mkmini True Classic

    Location:
    Latvia
    9745AED8-2071-4E03-B89B-D918759AF5C2.jpeg I am thinking of taking engine out again and paint whole chasis :D
    How to take out door handle and these chrome lines on doors?
     
  2. Dr.Jeff

    Dr.Jeff True Classic

    Location:
    Sin City
    To remove the door handles, you need to get access to the inside of the door. See if this thread helps:
    https://xwebforums.com/forum/index.php?threads/door-locks-locate-replace.6350/#post-38573
    Basically there are some small nuts that need to be removed from the back side of the handles. Unfortunately like most things on the car the nuts are likely to be rusted and stuck, and the studs are thin/weak so the tend to snap off when trying to remove the nuts. Also there is a plastic "clip" that connects a rod to the lock. Removing it often breaks the small metal post it is attached to (referred to as a "pawl"). Here is some info on repairing that:
    https://xwebforums.com/forum/index....ith-door-handle-lock-issues.23433/#navigation

    The chrome strip at the top of the door is easier, but it's been so long I'm not certain on some of the details now. Seems like there is a small "hidden" sheet metal screw buried in the 'fuzzy' felt toward the rear of it, that must be removed. Then for the most part the trim can be pushed up from the bottom, off the top edge of the door. It is a tight fit so a piece of wood and a mallet may be needed to help persuade it. It is fairly soft so be careful not to bend it in the process. The front end of it is tucked under the vent window assembly, but I believe the trim can be pulled out from under it without removing the vent window frame. There was a old thread that described the whole process, but I don't have it linked. Maybe someone else can help more.
     
    mkmini likes this.
  3. Dr.Jeff

    Dr.Jeff True Classic

    Location:
    Sin City
    mkmini likes this.
  4. mkmini

    mkmini True Classic

    Location:
    Latvia
    A3D27A68-2F73-47A6-A733-7FB7655CDE9F.jpeg 0EDF1017-6234-4F4C-A2B0-0ACE3E67895A.jpeg 54F8133C-2648-4D1C-B43F-E483B93458A6.jpeg 40DC459D-F81A-48F6-9DB4-CA36FD371498.jpeg





    few weeks and it is going to be red again or are there any other as good as red colors?
     
    lookforjoe and motoTrooper like this.
  5. Dr.Jeff

    Dr.Jeff True Classic

    Location:
    Sin City
    Just looking at all of the body work you have already done is making me feel sick, because I have three of them to do still. I started on one, got the rust repair done and some metal work but needed to take a break from all the sanding. That was a year ago. :( And the other two have not even started yet. :mad:

    Yours is coming along nicely, well done. ;) Red is a classic sports car color, always a good choice. I know other colors like bright green, orange, etc are popular for the X1/9, but on small, somewhat odd cars like these I'm not a real fan of that. To me those really 'loud' colors make them look more like toys ("clown cars") than real sports cars. Maybe if the cars were bigger and bolder on their own (like newer Lamborghinis for example) then a loud bright color can work, but I think it sort of 'backfires' on tiny cars - making them seem even smaller and less menacing ("chick cars"). But color is a very personal taste with lots of individual opinions, so I am not against anyone's choice - this is only my thoughts for my cars. I nicely painted car in any color always looks better than a scruffy one. :)
     
    lookforjoe, mkmini and motoTrooper like this.
  6. NEG

    NEG True Classic

    Location:
    UK
    I like it, you could just rat it and spray with a clear top coat :D
     
    speedy fiat and mkmini like this.
  7. Black-Tooth

    Black-Tooth Tony Natoli

    MK...

    I have TWP "philosophical" suggestions relative to colors:

    1. Decide on your car's theme, i.e. is it a racer, cruiser, GT, stocker etc. The bright colors look great on racers, but dark colors like dark green, blacks, dark blues, etc.... not so much. Conversely, bright colors like oranges and yellows, reds tend to "cheapen" a cruiser. One outstanding example I saw recently was an all BLACK Tesla Model S with "chrome" accents and wheels. Looked very "rich and classy", IMHO. Then I saw another in let's say a "Ferrari" RED and it looked cheap and out of place... blacked out wheels etc. The black car appeared to cost $40K more than the red one!

    Lastly... a true restoration requires the factory colors... but a "restification" or resto-mod can be a modification like using a slightly brighter green or a pearl top-coat. A play on the original colors...

    2. BLACK... Black hides all the seams, gaps, vents and grills... and also takes our rather "angular" cars and "rounds them out. Of course black also takes a lot of prep as it doesn't hide anything.

    From what I have seen with your "blocking" so far it would appear you have a lot of experience in body prep. I think what ever direction you go or color you choose its gonna be great! Keep up the good work!
     
    mkmini likes this.
  8. lookforjoe

    lookforjoe True Classic

    Good to see it moving forwards. I seem to have a little PTSD when it comes to looking at bodywork / paint prep - I would not want to go through that again :D
     
    Dr.Jeff likes this.
  9. mkmini

    mkmini True Classic

    Location:
    Latvia
    @NEG I have thought about that :D
    @Dr.Jeff thanks
    @Black-Tooth I agree with You about colors, my skills ar not good enough for black.
    @lookforjoe when am sanding all corners, where 3 planes comes into two, I remember Your Dallara work everytime hahah, I thought You did it with pleasure :D
     
    Dr.Jeff likes this.
  10. lookforjoe

    lookforjoe True Classic

    I enjoyed the challenge, since bodywork is not something I routinely do, but I wouldn't say the paint prep/detail sanding is exactly fun :D
     
  11. Black-Tooth

    Black-Tooth Tony Natoli



    I assume you mean to say, IS NOT exactly fun...
     
  12. lookforjoe

    lookforjoe True Classic

    Then it would have been fun, since I prefaced it with "I wouldn't say..." :D
     
  13. Black-Tooth

    Black-Tooth Tony Natoli

    Yeah, I guess you did...

    Hmmmm... Ima gonna blame MY mistake on old age!
     
  14. mkmini

    mkmini True Classic

    Location:
    Latvia
    7C005591-6B7A-48D9-B969-BA7D6FAE6B9F.jpeg Maybe interesting info for You
    Kreisais=Left
    Labais=Right
    1=front axle
    2=rear axle
    D=brakes
    S=handbrake
    In the front UT brakes with Ferrodo pads
    Rear X19 with old unused pads.

    All around stainless braided flexi lines, new master cylinder, unrestored cylinders of calipers.
    Don’t know what that number exactly means, some braking power - kN?, that is tested my MOT.
     
  15. Dr.Jeff

    Dr.Jeff True Classic

    Location:
    Sin City
    Ya, I assume it is some sort of pressure readings they did as part of your MOT. I guess that means your rear brakes have greater pressure than the fronts? And it looks like one of your park brakes (hand brake) isn't working? Pretty cool to get actual measurements though.
     
    mkmini likes this.
  16. mkmini

    mkmini True Classic

    Location:
    Latvia
    DBA5B657-BC48-4F74-8BAC-5E4FF855988A.png 8B134436-177E-4D8C-8F7F-B33D098D4972.png 5006B9A4-5EC5-49E7-A552-577E2F89D1C4.jpeg 0B8FCA0E-26E6-4419-8C47-8C337300CD94.jpeg should I go back to Fittipaldis instead of Borbet?
     
  17. mkmini

    mkmini True Classic

    Location:
    Latvia
    Was too curios, found data from MOT of another Latvian X19. Have no idea are there any modifications to the brake system, but I would like to think that there is not- here is his brake test’s result
    From this one (http://www.auto24.lv/lietoti/fiat/x19/859197)

    FB1BB5C6-2376-4C0B-9E79-FA726A3B73F0.png
     
  18. Dr.Jeff

    Dr.Jeff True Classic

    Location:
    Sin City
    Did the guy at the MOT place explain what the numbers indicate? But I have to say, the second car has same results side to side and the difference between the fronts and rears seems better. I don't remember if you have done any work on your brakes before? It is common for them to need work after sitting without regular use for long periods.

    About the wheels. The styles are very similar looking so I don't think it is worth changing for that reason. Unless the sizes are better on one set.
     
  19. mkmini

    mkmini True Classic

    Location:
    Latvia
    Those are kN as I found out, bit it may be different because axles are measured seperately- so how hard he press the pedal. That info because of that is a bit useless :/

    I should change to lower profile tires in front or go down to 15” - 16 205/45 doesn’t work in the front.

    Today did few things. Rear lower corners are bit wierd, if will have inspiration, will redo them.


    906B606A-0B53-4200-94E3-D290C10CBFB4.jpeg 09E90388-262A-4AEC-B09D-407B920C7F82.jpeg 1C624D81-5D4E-43E6-A08A-FB740F1D8333.jpeg
    FF078666-D14C-4C1D-9246-43F53A412633.jpeg
     
    motoTrooper and Dr.Jeff like this.
  20. Dr.Jeff

    Dr.Jeff True Classic

    Location:
    Sin City
    I really like the new body panels. Great job! Including the rear corners...what's weird about them?

    I agree about the brake test, not very good information from it.
     

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