RED X19

[ng_randolph]

Can't understand how to dissasmbly gearbox, all bolts out, reverse sensor out. Do I need to take off those farest gears(fifth?) ? Can take bellhousing off about for 15mm and something doesn't let to move it further.

I believe that both these gearbox are already with UT internals, but want to be sure that it is ir will be in good condition.

I have never taken one of these apart, but have you read the 5-speed 101 by Steve Hoelscher?

 

[Rupunzell]

Start here, read and view the complete series before proceeding.

https://xwebforums.com/forum/index.php?threads/5-speed-transaxle-part-one-take-apart.26288/

https://xwebforums.com/forum/index.php?threads/5-speed-transaxle-part-two-the-diff.26292/

https://xwebforums.com/forum/index.php?threads/5-speed-transaxle-part-three-gear-sets.26322/

https://xwebforums.com/forum/index.php?threads/5-speed-transaxle-part-four-shift-forks.26404/


Do a search, there is plenty of info on this topic in the archives.
Bernice

Can't understand how to dissasmbly gearbox, all bolts out, reverse sensor out. Do I need to take off those farest gears(fifth?) ? Can take bellhousing off about for 15mm and something doesn't let to move it further.

I believe that both these gearbox are already with UT internals, but want to be sure that it is ir will be in good condition.

 

[Janis]

Thanks, am reading

 

[lookforjoe]

Start here, read and view the complete series before proceeding.
Do a search, there is plenty of info on this topic in the archives.
Bernice

As an aside, there are no pics of the 'stub shaft' (drive flange) removed -

I ask, because in looking at mine, there is radial play in the stub shaft/ drive flange behind where the inner CV attaches - the source of which I cannot identify from the photos - where do the stub shaft splines locate? Wear in the spider gears?

 

[Rupunzell]

The external splines on the stub axle end of the CV joint fits into an internal spline on the hub of the upright. This is the part of the wheel hub that is pressed on to the inner race of the wheel bearing and has the flange that the wheel attaches to.

These are usually quite robust and problem free.

There should be zero free play as that stub axle is clamped by the axle nut (M20 x 1.5, 30mm hex). If there is free play, it could be the CV joints. Slight free play is typical, a lot is an indicator of worn CV joints or loose CV joint screws (very, very common problem).

There will be some free play on the transaxle stub axle side, but not much.


Bernice

 

[lookforjoe]

Should have clarified inner drive hub not outer - I'll have to find a way to measure deflection

 

[Rupunzell]

Inner CV flange is on the transaxle. The splines of this drive flange fits into the diff spider gear. Slop here is often due to worn splines or spider gear splines (rare, never seen this as a problem). Wear assessment can be done by removal of the driver flange from the transaxle and inspecting the spline engagement area.

This has not been historically a problem area.


Bernice

Should have clarified inner drive hub not outer - I'll have to find a way to measure deflection

 

[Dr.Jeff]

MKMINI, excellent work! Judging by the background in your out-side photos, it looks like a very wet climate there. So I'm sure you are used to dealing with rust on vehicles. When I travel to regions like yours I like to visit the local repair shops and talk with the workers. I appreciate the level of skills required to do this type of work with the equipment and facilities that exist. In America we are very spoiled with lots of equipment, materials, and other resources so we don't always realize the advantages we have for such things. Some of your questions are difficult to answer because there aren't many examples of models like the Uno Turbo here and we have very little experience with them. Hopefully guys in the UK or other European areas that have more of them can give you advice. But it looks like you are not afraid to try on your own, so I am sure it will happen. Best of luck, and keep us informed on your progress....well done!

 

[Janis]

Don't have time to touch gearbox till midsummer (day when all country drinks beer, eats cheese and is finding love ) but remembered one thing-
I will use X19 bellhouse, where isn't crank sensor, but UT has it- how precious I need to drill hole for it +\- 0,5 mm would be enough?

 

[Dr.Jeff]

day when all country drinks beer, eats cheese and is finding love

My kind of place!

 

[Janis]

Today started sandblasting. Wasted time and money for sand. It looks that this project will be stopped for some months, till I can buy a compressor with enough l/min or can pay to someone for sandblasting.

 

[Dr.Jeff]

a compressor with enough l/min

Ya, it takes a LOT of air-flow to spray the sand. One option might by to link 2 or 3 compressors together to combine their flow capacity. Maybe you know someone with another compressor to add to yours. Here is one way this was done, but only view this to get the concept...you can find a simpler method to achieve the result:

Was wondering how your project was going, don't give up.

 

[Janis]

Mine has ~300 l reciever and 2-4kw motor, nut sure. But biggest in town definitely

Have two traditional small ones 220V but they won't be able to keep normal pressure, and most likely won't live long working full day.

Thanks for advices

 

[Dr.Jeff]

Mine has ~300 l reciever and 2-4kw motor, nut sure. But biggest in town definitely

That seems like it should have enough air flow (CFM). Maybe there is another problem?
What type blaster are you using? Do your hoses and/or gun (nozzle) have any restrictions, or too long? How course is the sand...it needs to be all fine stuff, no small stones, etc? I had the same problem when I tried to use a "siphon" type blaster and the sand was too rough, the air could not suck it through the system. But that was not the compressor's problem.

 

[Janis]

Have same as in link http://www.autoremontam.lv/lv/pneim...oles/smilsu-struklas-iekarta-38-l-strom-sb10/

Nozle was 2.5 mm (now it's wear out to ~4) sands fraction is 0-1mm, dried. Those aren't quartz sands but cheap ones, they aren't so sharp and hard. I think sands should not be the problem.

In the end I tried to not open all valves fully. But it dint help.

One way could be to find an engine with higher rpm. But I'm not sure, could that compresor overheat in that case?

Mine could keep pressure about 3-4 bar when blasting.

 

[Janis]

Sorry 500l receiver
But about rpm not sure

Yeah cheapest way would be to put bigger diameter wheel on motor

 

[Dr.Jeff]

Your compressor air tank is big so when it is full you should have lots of air-flow to do sand blasting. But if the compressor air-pump (cylinder) cannot re-fill the big air-tank fast enough then you run out of air-flow. Does the sand blaster work good at first, when the compressor air-tank is full?

That type of sand blaster has one hose that pressurizes the sand-tank (top side) and another that sucks the sand (from the bottom side). Is the sand blaster tank getting enough pressure (according to the maker's instructions) to the top side? This pushes the sand through to feed the bottom.

Maybe try putting the entire sand blaster tank/unit up high on a tall table so gravity helps with the sand flow; so the sand is flowing DOWN the bottom hose to the gun/nozzle (like water flowing downhill). I know it sounds funny but it worked for me a long time ago when I was using a old beat-up blaster.

Also check the condition of the compressor air-pump (cylinder). Make sure the cylinder wall and piston rings are not too worn (just like a worn engine cylinder, not good compression). And no air leaks at the fittings between the cylinder and the air-tank (sometimes the air flows backward out the "inlet" side of the cylinder, so less air goes forward to the "outlet" side).

Is the electric supply to the compressor motor good (big enough wires, etc)? Many things to check.

 

[Dr.Jeff]

I'm not sure what will happen if you make the compressor motor turn the air-pump (cylinder) faster. Maybe cause problems?

 

[Janis]

When pressure is 8+ bar it works good enough.
Pressure on top side is correct at barometers are on the compressor and sandblaster.

Will try to put that blaster higher, it could help a little.

Will check all Your suggestions
Problem seems l/min - rmp/compression/leaks. Wires are thick enough, I believe.

It's not original motor. It has more power, faster or slower don't remember, but wheel is smaller definitely

 

[Janis]

About engines..
I'm using that Punto 1.6 as my daily car at the moment. Am little bit fascinated about power and revving. Actually first experience driving a Fiat.

I really want to put turbo on this engine. As cheap as I can do it. Have read a thread on puntosports forum of very similar job. Only difference is that he had is aftermarket ECU.

For decompression there is choice:
A crankshaft from Uno Turbo engine ( in this case there will be 1499 cc)
B Thicker head gasket
C or some more expensive job on the head

Heads:
A original 1.6 head
B Uno Turbo mk1 head

All turbo system from Uno Turbo.

Will Uno Turbo mk1 ECU work on this setup? If not could a little bit more productive nozzles solve the problem?

This is very small budget project, max ~100$
Of course then this setup will be into x19 when chassis will be ready.