RED X19

Likely the least expensive way to lower the compression will be the head spacer. But that may not be the best way. If you can get a Uno Turbo crankshaft that would be better, but more work (basically rebuilding the engine) and probably more expensive. Depending on what the current compression ratio is, what maximum level of boost you run, how well the fuel and ignition are controlled, and how efficient the inter-cooler is, you might not need to lower the compression ratio. But detonation (pre-ignition, or "knock") is your enemy and heat, pressure, AFR, and timing all have major roles. And the compression ratio has one of the biggest impacts.

You have the manifold but do you have the turbo itself? That can be expensive (over the budget you mentioned). Installing a used turbo is risky; if (when) it disintigrates it will tear up the engine. As for the ECU, I think a Uno Turbo unit should work but I don't have any experience with that so hope someone else can help more. However I can say that just putting larger injectors with the standard ECU will not work. Maintaining proper air:fuel ratio with a boosted application is much more complicated than that.

The bottom line is it's difficult to build a "cheap" turbo set up. At least not one that will work and last. I think the best route for your situation might be to find a complete used Uno Turbo engine with all of the related parts (turbo, ECU, sensors, controls, etc).

And yes, they rev!
P.S. I still need to send you the data I promised, sorry for the delay.
 
Already have:
-Running Punto 1.6
-Nearly running full Uno Turbo mk1
-1 Uno Turbo engine for spares


What is current compression ratio on 1.6 , have no idea, as new it was 9.8:1

If there is no way to use UT mk1 ecu on this setup, I will wait till finish X19 chassis.

P.S. It's ok Jeff, as I haven't get a lot further with that project.
 

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I thought you had more Uno Turbo parts. In that case you could use the crankshaft from the Turbo engine in the Punto block. But why not just use the Turbo engine? When I asked about compression I was talking about it's original rated compression (9.8 you said). I asked because you might be able to use the turbo without lowering the compression. 9.8 isn't that high so maybe just a thick head gasket to try and get closer to 9.0 or 9.5?

If you have the Turbo ECU then it should work fine. But you might need to use all matching components like injectors, etc. But again, I'm not experienced with the Uno Turbo. However I am interested in a turbo set-up for the 1.5 engine. So I'd like to see how this goes for you.
 
The Uno Turbo head has sodium filled exhaust valves, and the valves are different sizes so cannot be swapped between the UT and Punto heads. Swapping crankshafts but keeping the Punto head would make a mess of your squish band but give you a 1499 cc engine with a compression ratio of 7.8:1. That would be ok for a turbo. You could open up the UT head's combustion chambers (they are made to suit the 80.5 mm bore) to get the CR of your choice, but again the squish is spoiled by the pistons coming up 1.75 mm lower in the bores with the short stroke crank. Maybe a combination of milling the deck and opening up the UT head's combustion chambers will be best. Steve Cecchele is the man who knows!
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Thank you Rachael. I was hoping someone that has experience with the Uno Turbo would step in.

I think he was wanting to utilize the running Punto engine, but add the UnoTurbo's turbo system to it. Hence the question about lowering the CR of the Punto engine, to suit boosted induction.

"Mkmini", is your second UT engine worth rebuilding/using in your Punto? Perhaps that's the best way to get your goal of cheap boost.
 
1600 (1581) 8 valves are 9.2:1 static CR ...punto/tipo head has 39.5 intakes but should only have 31.5 exhaust valves... unoT has 33.4 exhaust valves and 36mm intakes... so the exhaust valves won't fit from the uno head into the tipo/punto head without changing the seat.

1500 crank into 1600 block will leave the pistons a LONG way from the top of the bore... very poor squish (well zero) or quench and the resulting low static CR would mean very poor running off boost.

enlarge the combustion chambers and enlarge the dished recess in the piston crown if you want to drop CR... a few CC's (about 5) is all it will take to drop to 8.5:1.

SteveC
 
Thanks a lot for info.


What for are those two loops/brackets between waterpipes? Planning to delete them, because of rust.

It looks that in near few days will put car back on wheels.
IMG_1987.PNG

While it is on rotisserie what are must to do things? :
1.brake and clutch pipes
2.coolant system
3.front suspension+steering rack, rear suspension
4.gear linkage
5.speedo cable
6.what else could be hard afterthat?

/stolen image from this forum/
 
ng_randolph said:
The loops / brackets midway between the two coolant pipes are the front jack point.
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So if yours are rusted out, then they won't be any good as jacking points (can't support the weight). Suggest either replace with stronger brackets or just remove as you said.

Sounds like you are making good progress on it. I think your list of things to do is pretty complete, but maybe someone else can think of more to suggest while it is on the rotisserie.
 
You certainly have done an incredible amount of work toward bringing this X1/9 back to life! Well done, why don't my projects move along as quickly as yours. And nice O.Z. wheels...what size are they?
(Too funny about the cat, it's happened to me before)
 
Those are R15 7j et26
I just want to take a ride with it, very much :D This summer is very uncommon few very hot days and much rain on others days- these last two weeks was at almost acceptable for working outside.
 
I'm sure the high temperature is helping the "perfume" to smell extra good. :p

The wheels I will using are the same 15 x 7. But they were not designed for a Fiat specifically so the offset and hub-centric center bores are not correct. Therefore I ordered a custom set of hub-centric wheel spacers to make them fit. I'll try to show a photo of the wheels the next time I have them out of storage (my X won't be driving around as soon as yours :(). Where I live we are just beginning the acceptable weather for working outside...like you it is too hot during summer. But I still want to finish another big project first (fully customized VW Caddy truck), so my X may have to wait a bit longer.
 
Those are for bmw e30 - 4x100, center bore 57,1

Enlarging bore by 1mm is no problem-make a big drill from spare hub..

By the way I was considering same route as You wrote in another thread - installing radiatior in the trunk. Floor and that wall already deleted - in next week will see what will I do.

Caddys are 2nd best pickup after Mini Pickup
 

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mkmini said:
Caddys are 2nd best pickup after Mini Pickup
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Agree completely, but we don't don't have many Mini pickups here. Actually not many Caddy's either, but even less Mini's. :(

My wheels are 4x100 also, so the spacers I special ordered are really "adapters"; convert 4x97 to 4x100, and correct hub-centric bore, and correct spacing for off-set (I'm positioning the wheels further out to fill fenders 'flush'...no 'poke' just flush). Going air-suspension so when lowered completely the tires will be at the very edge of the fender lips (after I roll them out a little).
 
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I forgot how actually small and awesome it is before put it on the wheels:D

FYI R15 7j et 26 195/50 rubs front of the front arches (tread about 5mm) ; in front ~10 mm spacer ; gap between strut and tyre ~4mm
 
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Had very big dillema about clusters,wiring etc..
So this is compromise.

I believe everyone (except electricians) would do like this in my situation :D
 
That is dense amount of information. A new instrument panel will be needed to mount it into?
 
A combination of the UnoTurbo and X1/9 gauges? They fit together well. I bet getting all of the wires from both cars figured out is fun. As Karl said, looks like a custom panel is needed to house it. Great progress.
 
Yes- UT cluster with X19 tach just because anticlockwise.
Will use X19 panel an modify it a little on unvisible side.
 
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