RED X19

There was mistake, and there isn’t last windscreen in stock for 50€ or any other X19 part from my cost friendly parts seller.

Is there any bush that fits in snail mount from other car’s diff or anything?
 
Who needs a windscreen? With the top off and no screen you get a true "open air" experience. :eek:

At one time Fiat offered just the bushing for the 'snail mount', part number: 4466363. More affordable then buying the entire mount. Maybe you can find one closer to you, somewhere in Europe?
Otherwise it is a matter of making something fit. The mount insert's general dimensions are roughly 55mm OD by 55mm wide (thick), you'll have to check the bolt size for the ID dimension. I have a couple VW Mk1 engine-mount inserts but they are not close in size. Not sure the easiest way to find the sizes of other options. Please let me know what you find.
I had to modify my snail mount's aluminum bracket to give more clearance for the water-pump V-belt. Otherwise on a '79 with factory AC (different than all other X's), the belt can only be installed by removing the water pump, then reinstall with the belt on the pulley. Very nice bit of engineering by Fiat. o_O
 
If these parts are from X19- where are they supposed to be?
 

Attachments

  • 23A5261F-3173-49E8-AFDB-65BFEB1D70D9.jpeg
    23A5261F-3173-49E8-AFDB-65BFEB1D70D9.jpeg
    300.3 KB · Views: 157
Thanks to Anandastar for liking old post, what I absolutely forgot.

About flywheel sensor.
UT bellhouse does have it, X19 doesn’t.
How precious it should be drilled in same place?
 
Found that important is gap between sensor and teeths, not position on circle, as it counts teeths..
 
For the metal covers in your picture. The one on the right looks like a timing-belt inner cover (the half that bolts to the block behind the belt/pulley), but I can't tell if it is from a X1/9 or other Fiat engine. It should have a pointer (arrow) for the timing setting. Then there is a plastic cover for the outer half that attaches to the metal one.
Not sure about the other one pictured, maybe one of the "water shields" around the engine bay? Mine are all missing so I'm not sure what they look like.

As you say, the flywheel sensor gap position is important. Not certain how difficult it would be to add it to the X's bellhouse.
 
The metal cover on top (square with a notch out) goes on the tunnel under the dash - the notch out is where the heater lines come out.

Here's a (poor) photo of the area.
IMG_0814.HEIC.jpg


On your photo, it's upside down with the front pointing down to the left. It is held on the tunnel with two screws on the side. It is oversized from the tunnel size as it fits over the carpet. Here's what it looked like before I disassembled the interior:
IMG_20150926_164623.jpg

IMG_20150926_164648.jpg


Hope that helps.
 
Nice job Darin.
I need to redo the large water pipes and am considering redoing the heater pipes as well (as I see you have done). Did you run the heater pipes the same as original? I'm considering having both go all the way out the back (from under the tunnel) like the one already does, and extending them as far back as possible toward the engine. This will remove the portion that goes through the spare tire well (never understood that), allows both hoses to run parallel up to the engine (cleaner layout), plus makes the hoses shorter. That way they can both loop under the engine and up to their attachments. What did you learn that might influence my ideas?
 
Are you drilling the flywheel to make the pulse wheel? I considered that option. I was going to use a Volvo sensor back there....

X19_0531.jpg


Ended up using edis wheel on crank pulley.

I don’t know what does mean edis wheel and pulse wheel, google didn’t help me.
But Yes I drilled hole for pulse wheel.
 
Nice job Darin.
I need to redo the large water pipes and am considering redoing the heater pipes as well (as I see you have done). Did you run the heater pipes the same as original? I'm considering having both go all the way out the back (from under the tunnel) like the one already does, and extending them as far back as possible toward the engine. This will remove the portion that goes through the spare tire well (never understood that), allows both hoses to run parallel up to the engine (cleaner layout), plus makes the hoses shorter. That way they can both loop under the engine and up to their attachments. What did you learn that might influence my ideas?

Yeah... I'm doing a full stainless steel .065 replacement for the coolant (1 3/8") tubes and heater (5/8") tubes. I need to start a thread on it but feels premature since I'm not quite done yet.

Since I'm doing an MWB/K20 swap I can run the hot heater tube (the one going thru the inside of the tunnel, not below) anywhere, but I chose to use the same location - except I'll be exiting thru a new access hole on the parking brake backplate/tunnel end cover thingy. Here's a photo:
20171002_003828445_iOS.jpg

(EDIT: btw, photo was before I trimmed that tube to length - yeah that's longer than it needs to be.)

I'm making my lower tunnel tubes structural members (and removable) along with a stronger lower tube cover that's also structural, so not a lot of room for both heater tubes there - but if you weren't going for structural you could totally do it.

In a couple of weeks I'll post a more complete thread on this.
 
Amazing work, I love it. Especially the added structural aspects.

The way you have that "hot" heater pipe routed out the back (through "the parking brake backplate/tunnel end cover thingy") is what I was trying to convey earlier...avoiding the spare tire well. However I'm hoping to take it a step further and run it in the lower 'box' rather than within the tunnel. The goal is to remove all heat sources away from the interior more (mostly a factor of the climate where I live). My thought is to basically clone the other ('cold') heater pipe and stack them on top of one another. The two OD's stacked are slightly less than the OD of the larger coolant pipes; 5/8 + 5/8 = 1 1/4, so 1/8 less than the 1 3/8 pipe. That gives a little air gap between them; although there may still be some radiant heat transfer, it isn't significant (for my environment...could be different for those in cold climates).

As I write this, another idea came to mind. MUCH simpler. For the heater feed/return lines, why not tap off of the larger radiator pipes as they come out of the front of the lower box? By placing the heater valve (and heater core) between them it would not effect the radiator's flow/efficiency except when the heater valve is opened (in cold conditions, where the radiator has no cooling issue). This would be located near the heater core so two short rubber hoses from those points, through the floor pan, to the heater core and valve are all that's needed.
I'll try to illustrate on a picture from the web. The yellow arrow is the area where the two radiator pipes could have nipples added to tap-off the heater hoses; one on each radiator coolant pipe. The red arrow is the area where the heater hoses could pass through into the interior, where the heater valve and core are located (on AC equipped cars the heater valve is already located here):
X19 undercarrage - coolant hoses.jpg


Naturally this would be for cases where the larger coolant pipes are being replaced already, so adding the 5/8" nipples would be easy to do.
Thoughts?
 
Thanks Jeff for idea, I will realize it. Why it wasn't done like that in factory?! - hard to get air from interior radiator?
 
hard to get air from interior radiator?
The heater core is already located in the interior so nothing changes with it's air-flow. Actually everything stays exactly as stock except for the location of the heater hose attachments; now they would be up front just below where the heater core is, instead of at the engine in the back.

I may be forgetting something to consider, but ya...why wasn't it like this originally?
 
You'd only get heat available when the engine's thermostat opened tho - so I don't think that's what you want. You'd get heat "now and then", hot then cold. For all engines the heater circuit has (available) constant flow from the engine. Tapping into the radiator tubes would only get flow when the thermostat is opened.

Regarding the stacked 5/8 tubes - yeah, that would totally work. There's a large opening you can run both tubes thru. Here's a shot from the bottom of the tunnel:
IMG_0850.HEIC.jpg

and from above:
IMG_0853.HEIC.jpg

(note that I pulled the 'hot' heater tube that you saw earlier - it runs on the passenger side of the tunnel).

Maybe I'll start my thread earlier rather than taking over mkmini's thread with this. Cheers.
 
You are right..thermostat.

It's ok - I made this thread mostly to get advices, not to show what I can do with poor equipment. If someone sees good ideas here for himself - great.
 
Back
Top